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Member Since 30 Nov 2013
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 09:18 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: SUPE / Scubalamp Video Lights

22 October 2018 - 05:39 AM

I have the Archon DM60, which has the flat port, how can you tell it's 90 or 110 degree. The light beam seems quite spread when I use it.


From my very basis understanding, you want a dome port to counteract the refraction of the water to provide the same beam angle as above the water, so I would presume the reverse is also true for your flat ported DM60. Its 110 in air and 82.5' in water.



In Topic: SUPE / Scubalamp Video Lights

22 October 2018 - 02:42 AM

A flat port version would be epic - and would be 90' underwater (I would hope)

In Topic: SUPE / Scubalamp Video Lights

21 October 2018 - 11:02 PM

Are the 120 degrees advertised on air or in water? If its on air then they are narrower in water and closer to 90 degrees

As the front of the lights are domed, they are probably still 120-110’ underwater as you won’t be affected by refraction compared to them being behind a flat port.

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In Topic: Nauticam HDMI Cables - Fragility

13 October 2018 - 10:59 PM

Am hoping to find a 90 degree HDMI plug and shorter cable which would allow a straight line from bulkhead to 90 degree plug.
If I find a workable solution I will post part numbers.

Keep me updated on this, if you find one. [emoji1303]

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In Topic: Nauticam HDMI Cables - Fragility

13 October 2018 - 10:53 PM

Glad to see it’s not just me then. (Not glad it’s such a big problem...)

I think I’ll order a spare micro to micro bulkhead also. I’ve been testing with lots of other cables and adaptors and I’m 95% sure it’s just the internal cable that’s gone. The slightest movement - ‘No signal’ flickers on the monitor. Grr. What’s annoying is it’s not all the time either, so can’t even figure out where in the cable the problem lies, reading the internet, most issues are at the connector end and poor soldiering of the terminals more than in cable issues.

I think you’re right about GH5 cable being too long and having to kink it around the left drive dial to get it to fit - but looking at mine, yes it’s kinked, but the bend radius are not extreme. So surprised if that caused the issue.

The main 0.75m housing cable (which was replaced FoC when I got the housing) I’ve hardly used and after much testing I’m confident it’s okay. For me having to replace or keep spare a $50-100 cable isn’t an issue - my issue is the Shogun cables are $300!!!! For what reason I have no idea. They aren’t even HDMI 2.0

I’ve seen a couple of posts on FB also asking if anyone has spare DP4 cables as they have broken on trips (someone mentioning they were on their 4th!)

They should at least swap to mini not micro for the connectors. It’s just too fragile.

I’m with Adam, for a hobby where the gear isn’t used day to day and I bet cared for like I do, to have it just ‘break’ for no reason the next time you come to use it, is really off putting - it makes me question, the investment and if I should just get GoPros and not worry anymore and if it breaks just buy another. This Nauticam setup I cannot.

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