I've read a few posts on this forum about this; however I did my first photos with my rx100m2 in nauticam housing and had on the inon lens with dome and did not burp my lens and fortunately did not get any rings or air pockets in my photos.
i just recently upgraded to a gh5 and was planning on getting the WWL-1 lens --- I know this thing is pretty massive and heavy underwater and I've read the floating collar can block the latch for the bayonet mount--- do people actually remove this lens and put it back on when they are in the water-- has anyone dropped it and lost it in la la land? lol just curious what people do as i was unaware I had to do this until reading/watching more blogs/posts
I've never found any need to burp the WWL-1 bayonet mount, it seems to "self-burp" quite well. However, I do take itone and off U/W a lot, because sometimes I'g using it and sometimes I'm not, and I also carry a CMC-1 to put on. My standard configuration has the CMC and the WWL on docks on my arms, and then I pick and choose during the dive. There is a vailable a little t-shaped arm to put on the bayonet release so you can easily get at it with the flotation collar on the WWL-1.
This is a known problem with the TG's and moving objects, especially when trying to use a strobe. The camera tries to expose for the ambient light, so the shutter speed will nearly always be slow underwater except near the surface at midday in tropical water.
Tricks people try:
** Use EV compensation of up to 2 stops, that is, force the picture to be dark, then have the flash do the illumination.
** Use A mode and force the aperture wide open.'
** Higher ISO.
** Some combination of all the above. Time to play...
** Sports Mode. here is what one fellow said on another forum:
Sports mode will attempt to use 1/500 or faster depending on available light. As light drops, I believe it will increase ISO up a max of 1600. But, if it can't maintain 1/500, it will naturally start using lower shutter speeds. Flash may help freeze motion due to its short output duration. Yet, the shutter speed will still be slow and the flash has limited range.
If you have pushed the ISO up to 1600 and don't have a fast enough shutter speed, you don't have enough light for this camera to produce what I'd consider a clean image. The best you can do to avoid zooming and take advantage of the relatively fast f/2 lens.
The Olympus TG-5 in the Olympus housing is a awesome bargain, and a lot to learn if your spouse has not done much U.W photography. Some find the lack of manual settings a downer. Start adding a Nauticam housing and a wet WA lens, and it become less of a bargain and a LOT more to learn.
My wife had an old Canon S110 in a Nauticam housing that she loved, but the flash stopped working, so she sent it in to Canon for a repair. They said they could not repair it so sent her a G7X Mark II as a replacement. Of course, that meant a different Nauticam housing, which we found used along with a dome port. She is a fairly accomplished photographer, but not a techie nerd, and the combined learning curve of the G7XII plus the new housing hit her limit. She took the dome on a single dive, then set it aside and hasn't touched it since.
i guess what I'm saying is (a) the TG-5 is great but limited, and too much camera/stuff can be inhibiting.
From a purist point of view, f-stop does have units. As an example, mm focal length/mm effective aperture diameter. Since the 2 lengths are referring to different parameters, they do not cancel. While I realize that ignoring the units greatly simplifies communications, as a chemist, I find that many professionals can't solve problems by simple unit conversions because they think things like vapor/liquid distribution constants (concentration vapor/concentration liquid) also have no units.
LOL. I guess this is the difference between mathematics and chemistry.
The guide number has a unit of measurement: for distance. Feet or meter. Manufacturers do not even say it, but it's a mistake because it's not 33 feet or 33 meter. The guide numbers of the flashes in the article are given in feet.
Let me say this a little differently and in more detail, because I'm sure many people are confused about it.
The Guide Number (GN) is what you divide by the distance-to-subject to get an f-stop. The distance to subject can be in feet or meters. So, if you are 10 ft away with a GN of 33, you should use f/3.3. But, if you are a meters person, like most of the world (!), the GN should be given as 10, so when you divide by 3m (i.e, 10 ft) you still get an f-stop of 3.3.
Because f-stops are a ratio of lens focal length to lens opening, the f-stop has no units, it is a pure ratio of two lengths. So when you multiply distance x f-stop = GN, you still have units of distance, be they ft or meters. This means the GN MUST HAVE ITS UNITS ATTACHED -- feet or meters -- or it is incorrect and potentially will give you greatly underexposed pictures. .
Using the example of GN33 and assuming it works for meters, and you are 3m away, you will use f/11. But the correct f-stop is 3.3, because the GN is in feet. So you are underexposing by a factor of over eleven (11/3.3 squared).....good luck.
Shoot from a lower angle...eliminate as much of the light-colored background as possible. Zoom in, eliminate as much of the light-colored background as possible. Use just enough light to keep the light-colored background from blowing out; the fish will be underexposed, but it is easier to bring up the underexposure in post-processing than to tone down a blown-out background.Light low and from the side, not the top, so you see both texture and can "skim" the light over the sand. Pray.