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Member Since 05 Jan 2008
Offline Last Active Today, 03:04 PM

#404620 first dive with a strobe

Posted by tursiops on 23 March 2019 - 11:28 AM

Tell us a bit more: camera, shutter speed, ISO, flash setting, TTL, depth? INON D2000, I assume.


Are the pictures cropped, or are they full-frame? Was the flash on an arm high and to the right?


In general, many of the pix seems to be exposed for ambient light (backgrounds are bright), and the flash is not doing much, which suggests you need to get off the automatic camera settings and use a higher shutter speed and/or lower ISO, and get closer so the flash can have some effect. 

#404392 Wetpixel Cave Photography Workshop

Posted by tursiops on 17 March 2019 - 03:28 PM

I wish I didn't have an irrevocable conflict on those dates. It looks like a fun trip!

#404364 Classified Forum Abuses and Policies

Posted by tursiops on 16 March 2019 - 01:58 PM

I appreciate seeing this information. I'll be sure not to sell anything to UW3D.

#403989 Kudos to Chris Ross

Posted by tursiops on 04 March 2019 - 05:06 PM

This is to point out the consistent and high quality of posts by Chris Ross in this subforum and others. He provides technical depth and experience written in a straightforward and concise way. I have learned something from all of them. They read well, they inform, they do not speak down to the questioner, and they show high regard for the subject and the people. He takes some darn good pictures, too!


Others on WetPixel are also consistently helpful posters, but today, for me, Chris Ross stands out.


Well Done.

#402578 About to buy a Panasonic 8-18 over a 14-42/WWL-1

Posted by tursiops on 15 January 2019 - 03:14 PM



For those that do own this lens - how much of a pain in the rear is it to take it off underwater?  I am not gonna bother with converting it to bayonet mount - at most, would clip a small pouch to my harness and stick it in there when not in use.

I own the 14-42 and the WWL-1. Awesome combination, by the way. Changing the WWL-1 underwater? Once you've done it, you will see why the bayonet mount is so desirable. The WWL-1 is a huge piece of glass and heavy...it really needs the float collar, and using the bayonet you don't need to shift your grip on it while taking it off or putting it on, with a little expereince about how to hold it. Bayonet on the WWL-1 and on your diopter, bayonet dock on the port and two docks on your arms, and there is a place for everything and you have minimized the chance of dropping something. Especially in its float collar, the WWL-1 will not fit in a "small pouch."

#402517 Sea & Sea Ball Mount Strobe Adaptor ?

Posted by tursiops on 13 January 2019 - 07:55 AM

I've been looking for the OTHER attachment, the YS-mount to Sea&Sea. I'm using the balls now, but I'm wondering if I can eliminate a couple of clamps by going YS at the strobe end. Cannot find the YS mount either. Used or new. 

#402256 Bouyancy

Posted by tursiops on 06 January 2019 - 03:31 PM

What kind of bouyancy are you usually looking for for your setups?

Slightly heavy, perhaps 0.1-0.2 kg.

#402015 Mucky Indonesia with the gh4

Posted by tursiops on 29 December 2018 - 01:26 PM


#399983 Q about Nauticam housing for Oly EM10 mk3

Posted by tursiops on 10 October 2018 - 01:05 PM

Hi guys -
Can someone let me know the following about the :
- Is it possible to use back button AF on the Nauticam housing for this camera, and if so, is the button at an ergonomically sensible location?
- Does the Nauticam housing allow direct movement of the AF point (IE, without needing to press any button)
- Any unexpected gotchas or other issues with usability as far as this housing goes?
Sefnt from my BBF100-6 using Tapatalk

I have the Mk1. I assume they are similar.
Yes, the thumb button normally to start video can be reprogrammed to be focus. Very conveniently located. Moving the AF point involves several button pushes.

#399881 Lighting to shoot Icebergs

Posted by tursiops on 06 October 2018 - 03:54 PM

Your strobe won't reach very far...10 feet would be a long distance. This means a very wide-angle lens/dome (as you have) so you can get close and still get subject matter in the frame. I'm not sure I'd even worry with the strobe, but would try just ambient light...with good clear water it might be enough. The brightness above suface will be a problem, so sun angle and shadows will help. ideally, backlit for the above surface part, and ambient light below. Practice finding he exposure that does not burn out any sun-illuminated part, but still allows some non-pure black below. If you could find a stable platform, HDR would help. Low ISOs to try and get max exposure range.


All those scenes you see in caves are not lit with a strobe on the camera, but rather with many strobes placed around the cave, so each one is close to what it is illuminating. Covering a large area with light is challenging. I would personally not even try it with an iceberg. I've dived in Antartica, next to an iceberg, and the u/w formations were wonderful, but they wee shot on their own, not as part of an over/under.


Good luck.

#399462 Help to ID a goby?

Posted by tursiops on 18 September 2018 - 03:39 PM

I'd say blenny rather than goby. There are a number of them with red spots on a brown body.....but more of the animal would be needed to tell them apart. Take a look at Cirripectes springeri and C. variolosus and C. stigmaticus, for example.

#399461 Professional Training in Light Room/Photoshop ?

Posted by tursiops on 18 September 2018 - 02:05 PM

Backscatter and Reef Photo both offer workshops specifically on Lightroom for u/w photos.

#398083 "Burping" wet lenses specifically WWL-1?

Posted by tursiops on 02 August 2018 - 02:12 PM

I've read a few posts on this forum about this; however I did my first photos with my rx100m2 in nauticam housing and had on the inon lens with dome and did not burp my lens and fortunately did not get any rings or air pockets in my photos.
i just recently upgraded to a gh5 and was planning on getting the WWL-1 lens --- I know this thing is pretty massive and heavy underwater and I've read the floating collar can block the latch for the bayonet mount--- do people actually remove this lens and put it back on when they are in the water-- has anyone dropped it and lost it in la la land? lol just curious what people do as i was unaware I had to do this until reading/watching more blogs/posts

I've never found any need to burp the WWL-1 bayonet mount, it seems to "self-burp" quite well. However, I do take itone and off U/W a lot, because sometimes I'g using it and sometimes I'm not, and I also carry a CMC-1 to put on. My standard configuration has the CMC and the WWL on docks on my arms, and then I pick and choose during the dive. There is a vailable a little t-shaped arm to put on the bayonet release so you can easily get at it with the flotation collar on the WWL-1.

#397690 Olympus TG-5 Fishing for answers with shutter dilemma

Posted by tursiops on 23 July 2018 - 12:29 PM

This is a known problem with the TG's and moving objects, especially when trying to use a strobe. The camera tries to expose for the ambient light, so the shutter speed will nearly always be slow underwater except near the surface at midday in tropical water.

Tricks people try:

** Use EV compensation of up to 2 stops, that is, force the picture to be dark, then have the flash do the illumination.

** Use A mode and force the aperture wide open.'

** Higher ISO.

** Some combination of all the above. Time to play...

** Sports Mode. here is what one fellow said on another forum:

Sports mode will attempt to use 1/500 or faster depending on available light. As light drops, I believe it will increase ISO up a max of 1600. But, if it can't maintain 1/500, it will naturally start using lower shutter speeds. Flash may help freeze motion due to its short output duration. Yet, the shutter speed will still be slow and the flash has limited range.

If you have pushed the ISO up to 1600 and don't have a fast enough shutter speed, you don't have enough light for this camera to produce what I'd consider a clean image. The best you can do to avoid zooming and take advantage of the relatively fast f/2 lens.

Good luck!

#396998 Oly TG-5 Package Recommendations

Posted by tursiops on 03 July 2018 - 01:09 PM

The Olympus TG-5 in the Olympus housing is a awesome bargain, and a lot to learn if your spouse has not done much U.W photography. Some find the lack of manual settings a downer. Start adding a Nauticam housing and a wet WA lens, and it become less of a bargain and a LOT more to learn. 


My wife had an old Canon S110 in a Nauticam housing that she loved, but the flash stopped working, so she sent it in to Canon for a repair. They said they could not repair it so sent her a G7X Mark II as a replacement. Of course, that meant a different Nauticam housing, which we found used along with a dome port. She is a fairly accomplished photographer, but not a techie nerd, and the combined learning curve of the G7XII plus the new housing hit her limit. She took the dome on a single dive, then set it aside and hasn't touched it since.


i guess what I'm saying is (a) the TG-5 is great but limited, and too much camera/stuff can be inhibiting.