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Olympus TG-4 vs Sony A6000


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#1 Lucid

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Posted 26 November 2018 - 07:06 PM

Earlier in the year I went to Indonesia with an Olympus TG-4 and underwater housing (PT-058). 
 
I also have a Sony a6000 which takes really good photos above water. 
 
Here are a few of my photos: https://photos.app.g...aAwGQgdbm19dEP8
 
I was wondering what I should do to improve the quality of the photos.
I think it's the colour that is lacking for the photos and maybe the clarity? 
 
 
I waned to get some thoughts on which of the following would be a good idea:
1. Keep using the TG-4 and add lights
2. Purchase a a6000 enclosure and also add lights.
 
Thoughts?
 
 

Edited by Lucid, 26 November 2018 - 07:06 PM.


#2 trimix125

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Posted 27 November 2018 - 10:29 AM

Hi,
adding light helps a lot under water ;-))
Even for your TG4.... Maybe a set of used middle class strobes?
The Sony is a much better camera, with the same amount of light, the results will be much more impressive.
So first step would be strobes, and then a housing for the Sony...
But that means a lot of money, first the housing, then ports and maybe other lenses....

So what is your primary interest? Macro or wide angle?
Will wet lenses be fine, or just the best prime lenses?

Regards,
Wolfgang



#3 Lucid

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Posted 17 December 2018 - 06:06 PM

Thanks Wolfgang.

 

I didn't have a primary interest yet. 

Still discovering. 



#4 ChrisRoss

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Posted 19 December 2018 - 09:33 PM

Also bear in mind just because you own a camera does not mean it's the best option to put in a housing and take underwater.  In order of improving quality you would have the compact like a TG-5, then a 1" sensor like an RX100, then micro43 like Olympus, then the APS-C Sony.  As you increase sensor size you go from the 1" compact with inbuilt zoom and no ports, to mirrorless m43 where a typical dome port is the 170mm Zen, to APS-C where you are looking at a 200-230mm port for a rectilinear wide angle.  As you go up in sensor size, costs go up.  Also consider the lenses available.  There are two fisheyes in the m43 lineup while the Sony doesn't have a native fisheye lens, only an adapter and the WA lens range is more limited.  As you go up the olympus and 1" semsor cameras and also possibly the m43 could use the smaller cheaper S&S YS-01 or INON S-2000, while the Sony would benefit from the full size Z-330 which is near twice the price.  The Sony has Auto flash only while the olympus will do manual flash.  The battery life also varies among models.

 

I would suggest tabulating your options like this:  the table shows the prices to setup for macro with an A-series Sony, m43 and two 1" sensor cameras, assumes Nauticam housing and port from Aus distributor  and camera/lens prices from Digi direct.

 

  table_camera.JPG

 

You could buy your strobes now  to use with the TG camera and work out which direction you would like to go.  Then price up the whole system, lenses, ports etc to see what you are up against


Edited by ChrisRoss, 19 December 2018 - 10:19 PM.


#5 ChrisRoss

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Posted 22 December 2018 - 06:25 PM

I should also add looking at your shots, a lot of them could be improved by getting closer and employing different settings.  for example your cuttlefish shot, is well lit but quite noisy.  The settings used were : 

OLYMPUS CORPORATION TG-4
ƒ/14 1/100 18mm ISO800
 
I suspect this was in program mode at full zoom.  The thing that is not clear when setting this camera up is there are only 2 apertures:  f2 and f2.8 at 4.9mm and this increases to f4.9 and f6.3 at 18mm.  to get other apertures it uses an ND filter which just wastes light.  So just using aperture priority instead would allow you to use 1/100 f4.9 ISO100 at 18mm.  The ISO100 image would be a lot cleaner.  Alternately f6.3 would be ISO200.  I would suggest using ISO100-200 for the most part.   The harlequin shrimp is not getting enough light from the onboard flash so has a green/blue cast, again going wide and getting closer will help and if using f2 on aperture priority mode, will allow the flash to illuminate better.  All this is a lot easier with external strobes  once you sort out positioning them properly.  You should still use aperture priortity so the ND filter does not come into play for most shots.
 
Your wide shots like the barracuda  would likely benefit from custom white balance.  Even if you just use the UW white balance option it will help, it stills looks a little noisy, did you pull up the exposure in post or is it a big crop?  You use the two custom presets to dial all thsi in before getting in the water, set one at f2 and wide open for big subjects and the other with flash and f2.8 for closeups and swap between them on the mode dial.


#6 Lucid

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Posted 02 January 2019 - 08:26 PM

Thanks Chris. That's super useful information, especially the keeping the ISO low and getting closer to the subject. 

 

I'll look at getting a strobe or 2 for the current setup as well as a wide angle wet lens.

 

The barracuda was shot in RAW and then post-processing with the white balance. It probably got made too blue in the edit. 

Might bring a white card down next time so that it's easier to set the white balance in the water then try to do in lightroom

 

I guess I'm on the search for strobes and a wet lens



#7 Lucid

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Posted 02 January 2019 - 08:36 PM

Hi Chris, 
 
I stumbled upon your Instagram photos and they look awesome!
 
The colours on these type of photos come up really well. Is that mostly due to lighting? 
 
 
With something like https://www.instagra.../p/Bqs6DBXlx6x/, is the clarity and colour due to the addition of strobes?
 
Thanks
Wayn


#8 CGreathe

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Posted 02 January 2019 - 09:46 PM

Your pictures are great! I would recommend thinking about composition and how to make the subject more interesting, but overall great pics, well done!