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GH5 tripod leg suggestions


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#1 Techapma

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Posted 30 December 2017 - 06:09 AM

I've recently upgraded from a RX100 to a GH5 and I am looking for some advice on choosing the right tripod legs. My primary interest is a tripod that is stable for use in macro or CFWA on sandy/muck bottom. I don't think I need a tall tripod, or the ability to pan. I also don't want the addition of tripod legs to turn my setup into an anchor. Lastly, I expect to be able to fold/stow the legs under the housing when they aren't deployed.

My rig is set up with a 60mm macro/flat port/Inon UCL165 for macro and a 180mm glass dome/Oly 7-14 for WA. I have two YS-D1 strobes with carbon float arms and a iTorchPro6+ focus light.

In my RX100 set up, my rig was just slightly negative - maybe 25g. I'm working to achieve similar buoyancy in my new setup - I can get there with each lens arrangement with the proper combination of float arms.

The trouble I have is the addition of tripod legs to the GH5 tripod ball mounts-

There are obviously many choices out there - fixed length strobe arms, adjustable length legs from UClS, Xit 404, and Inon, etc. or flexible Lockine or Gorrilapod. The flexible choices don't seem stable enough and the adjustable length choices seem like they'd be heavy.

Looking for input/advice.

What are others using?

Is adjustable leg length important?

Is there a minimum negative bouyancy I should shoot for to keep the rig stable?





Thanks,

#2 tursiops

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Posted 30 December 2017 - 12:12 PM

I found this to be robust, stable, and cost-effective.
Mangrove UWTB http://www.aditech-u...grove-uwtb.html
With three clamps and three short arms, it folds up underneath and does the trick.

#3 Pajjpen

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Posted 30 December 2017 - 08:57 PM

Note that u need to be negative for the tripod to sit steady.

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#4 tursiops

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Posted 30 December 2017 - 09:08 PM

Is adjustable leg length important?

               Depends on the local topography. Maybe.

Is there a minimum negative buoyancy I should shoot for to keep the rig stable?

               Depends on the current/surge.and the drag on your rig. 1-2 pounds is a minimum for me.
 



#5 bubffm

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 02:08 PM

I use the screw-clamp legs from Xit404. I used it already with my Sony AX100 and now with the GH5. Using standard clamps to fix tripod legs in the right position is a veritable PITA.  



#6 tursiops

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 02:42 PM

I use the screw-clamp legs from Xit404. I used it already with my Sony AX100 and now with the GH5. Using standard clamps to fix tripod legs in the right position is a veritable PITA.  

Those are great legs; they are also $175 each!

The Mangrove base I mentioned in post #2 is half the price of the Xit404 one, and does effectively the same thing.



#7 bubffm

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 02:47 PM

yep, they are not cheap. Let us know how the Mangrove perform in case you get them.

Edit: Your links above just points to a tripod base, not tripod legs.... attaching normal arms with a stndard clmp to that leads to the situatuon I described. Less than ideal. Also you dont relly need a tripod base if you get the Tripod balls forthe GH5 that attach directly to the body. Much more ergonomic.

Edited by bubffm, 03 January 2018 - 02:54 PM.


#8 tursiops

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Posted 03 January 2018 - 07:00 PM

Yes, the Mangrove is a base only. Since I'm not using a GH5 I do need some sort of base.

Since I already have extra arms and clamps, I'm living with it. You get better at it after a while!


Edited by tursiops, 03 January 2018 - 07:01 PM.


#9 thetrickster

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 03:56 AM

I've got the XIT404 tripod lens, with the female screw-on end. Very expensive for what they are and if I'm honest not strong enough, not without really really tightening them, but as I've got them, I use them occasionally.

 

I really liked my original gorilla pod (I think SLR Zoom or something) it was great for stabilising macro shots against rocks etc and it did hold the camera, but it eventually cracked so they don't last underwater use. Perhaps the metal ones would be better, but require washing to stock sticking.


Regards, Richard

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Camera Rig: Nauticam Lumix GH5/GH5s, 14-42mm II, WWL-1, Atomos Inferno, 48,000lm of artificial sun.

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#10 kc_moses

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 06:22 AM

Home made solution, much cheaper:

 

18119462_1370807692998967_22824419982276

 

18057164_1370807716332298_85138741322159

 

18119161_1370807749665628_78895382500609

 

I use the Mangrove plate, took apart a cheap $67 aluminum tripod for land use, attached a ball mount to the tripod leg with "Instamorph", put a screw and nuts through the Instamorph where the leg join the plastic and it's done. I recently use it in Tiger Beach, very stable. Since it's made out of aluminum, it's light weight and won't rust. It could be a bit long but with enough room on the floor, I can get the camera down to 2" above the ground.

 

Also, I haven't practice it, the long leg has an advantage, I can push it against my body and use it like a shoulder rig if I want to. Here is me in action, it's not that big once you get use to it:

 

24862186_1589808917765509_70722773330762


Edited by kc_moses, 05 January 2018 - 06:27 AM.


#11 thetrickster

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 06:31 AM

Thats pretty impressive!


Regards, Richard

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Camera Rig: Nauticam Lumix GH5/GH5s, 14-42mm II, WWL-1, Atomos Inferno, 48,000lm of artificial sun.

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#12 kc_moses

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 07:00 AM

Thanks! The inspiration come from a few incidents: When come across an electric clam that's under the rock and was 3 ft off the ground; and pygmy seahorse clinging to a sea fan that's 5 ft off the ground. No commercial UW tripod can solve that problem so I have to find a DIY solution, especially trying to save money.



#13 gearbow_36218

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 11:00 PM

Home made solution, much cheaper:

 

18119462_1370807692998967_22824419982276

 

18057164_1370807716332298_85138741322159

 

18119161_1370807749665628_78895382500609

 

I use the Mangrove plate, took apart a cheap $67 aluminum tripod for land use, attached a ball mount to the tripod leg with "Instamorph", put a screw and nuts through the Instamorph where the leg join the plastic and it's done. I recently use it in Tiger Beach, very stable. Since it's made out of aluminum, it's light weight and won't rust. It could be a bit long but with enough room on the floor, I can get the camera down to 2" above the ground.

 

Also, I haven't practice it, the long leg has an advantage, I can push it against my body and use it like a shoulder rig if I want to. Here is me in action, it's not that big once you get use to it:

 

24862186_1589808917765509_70722773330762

 

 

 

Great solution! Got a parts list???



#14 kc_moses

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Posted 16 January 2018 - 07:33 AM

 

 

 

Great solution! Got a parts list???

 

They stop selling the tripod I used, and it's very old, but I found something that should work. This is it:

 

https://www.bestbuy....p?skuId=5043881

 

In the 2nd picture of the tripod, you can see the "tap"/cap next to the level bubble, once you take apart the tripod leg, that hole is where you would put stainless steel screw through to secure the instamorph.

 

You would need 3 of this:

https://www.opticalo...oe-adapter.html

 

Then a small amount of "Instamorph", and 3 stainless steel 1/4-20 threaded screw and nuts, the length of the screw shouldn't be too much longer than the width of the tripod top.

 

 

High level instruction:

1.) Take apart the tripod leg

2.) unscrew the hotshoes ball adapter

2.) prepare instamorph,

3.) mold the instamorph into a flatten oval, push the threaded square hotshoe thing through the middle of the flatten oval, push the instamorph to cover the square base

4.) quickly fold both end of the flatten oval over the tripod leg, use a screw driver to pierce through the instamorph where the holes are, insert the stainless screw and tighten the other end with the nuts.

5.) screw the ball adapter back on the hotshoes square to create an indent, and for the instamorph to "grab" the ball adapter.

6.) keep morphing the instamorph until it's fully enclose the tripod leg plastic top section and won't vibrate.

 

Every few minutes I had to dip the instamorph into hot water to keep it soft.

 

I'm sure if someone has a 3D printer, it might be easier, but I think the instamorph is stronger than 3D printed plastic.

 

Let me know if the instruction is not clear enough, if there is enough request, I can do more close up picture of the tripod leg and put into the DIY section of the forum.