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There have been 9 items by MatthewAddison (Search limited from 20-October 17)
If you are shooting in RAW, color space plays no part. Only in JPeg as you suspected.
So - if I am shooting raw, the camera's AdobeRBB setting is not relevant? Does that setting only pertain to jpegs?
How do you set LR working space to ProPhoto? I am sorry, but I just do not see that option - but I probably don't know where to look.
In Lightroom, go to Lightroom, preferences, external editing and choose prophoto for your color space. Also, in the develop panel of Lightroom, check the Camera calibration panel at the bottom. It might be defaulted to adobe standard. You can choose ACR (4.2?) whatever is the latest ACR (adobe camera raw) or you can profile your camera using an x-rite color chart and adobe's profile editor program which I believe you can still download from their site.
Eric: The gallery show looks amazing! I wish I was on the west coast I'd be there in a heartbeat! Congratulations on the show. I hope you'll post some close-ups in a report on the opening and if DEMA doesn't give you the space for a gallery show I'd be unpleasantly surprised.
I'm not sure what process they used, but I really like the look of the ones I had made. I hope to be able to bring at least one of them to DEMA. We'll see!
Stew. Are you using a color corrected monitor? Some of the pictures color balance seem a bit off, if you are going for realism, which I felt you were. In one of the shots, the sunball had a red hue which points to over color correcting.
Sorry for posting so many shots for critique, but these are some of my best shots that i have on this pc and have spent a few hours working on the raw files to get them looking as best i can. I would like some honest feedback on them, composition, post processing, focus and anything else that I need to improve on. I really appreciate people spending time to look at them.
Overall, most of the shots were technically good as far as composition. The lighting seemed a bit uneven though in several of the shots, but that's getting really picky and I have tons of pictures myself with similar issues.
My only suggestion would be to try and look at things not as you have seen them in magazines or other shots, they have all been done to death. Work on a look that lets us know it is you who took the shot. That's the hard part, but your technique seems to say you are ready to create the "Stew" look.
It always comes back to Ryan doesn't it. Has MM been working out for you? I've been working with some of the agencies in NY but they get the wiggles when I mention pool work.
I use a 30' Nikonos cord with an intermediate Nikonos bulkhead fitting to PC conversion piece that plugs into my base Pocket Wizard.
Ryan at Reef Photo can make both of these for you.
He can also place the bulkhead in a Pelican case if you choose, but I chose to forego the floating Pocket Wizard for simply taping the Pocket Wizard to a light stand. Until I get my Olympic Pool, the Nikonos cable is long enough.
Thanks James. I like the radio trigger idea. Do you know if this is a custom item or an off the shelf piece?
I use simple optical sensors to trigger amphibious flashes that are mounted above water. Others on here use dedicated studio strobes triggered by a radio trigger which is connected to the underwater housing by a sync cord - or a 30' sync cord wired directly to a PC sync socket on the studio strobe.
The path on Itunes is: ITunes U>University of Michigan>Science and Technology>Saturday Morning Physics - Current Videos
Video #4 (as of this writing) How to keep your focus; The physics of camera lenses