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best strobe arms

strobe flash arm ball

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#1 Rugani

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 08:21 AM

Hi,

I have to buy new strobe arms and wonder, which are the best.

The one from Seacam are very expensive.

Are Nauticam ore ULCS arms good for heavy flashes?

How about Ikelite? The DS161 are as heavy as the Seacam 150d.

Please help me!

Thanks in advance 

Armin



#2 bnf-austin

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 08:26 AM

From experience:
- ULCS and Nauticam strive arms are very good.
- in the USA, I would pick up the idas strobe arms that perform just as well as the Nauticam for a fraction of the price (included is an example link):
https://www.opticalo...s/#/product/488
- on the other hand, I have both the idas and Nauticam clamps, and prefer the Nauticam and ULCS ones.


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#3 TimG

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Posted 11 October 2017 - 09:10 AM

I've had my ULCS for about 18 years and they have been flawless. I can recommend them highly. I've had Nikonos strobes on them and Inons.


Tim
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Nikon D800, Nikkors 105mm and 16-35mm, Sigma 15mmFE - Subal housing

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#4 Rugani

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 06:25 AM

I have Seacam 150d strobes and my ULCS don´t do a great Job.



#5 okuma

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 06:09 PM

I've used ultra lites for Inon 240z back to Oceanic 2001 with out any problems.


Underwater Photography:
If it is so easy every one would be doing it!

Nikon D 7000, Subal Housing, Inon Z 240 strobes.

#6 echo2600

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 06:58 PM

On a semi-tangential note... what have been people's experiences with the newer, fine thread ULCS clamps? I've never been thrilled with how tight I've had to crank down my clamps, to keep them from moving - especially with longer arms and some sporty dive conditions.... my thought is that the fine threads should allow significantly greater clamping force for any given torque on the knob....

#7 sharky1961

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 02:07 AM

I have UCLS arms for more than 12 years and since 6 years with Seacam 150d arms together with mike dive clamps. I have no complaints and theay still do a great job. I would buy them again.


Nikon D800 in Seacam D800,  Nikon 16mm, 16-35mm, , 60mm, 105mm,1.4 and 2x TC, 2x Sea&Sea 110a, 2x Seacam Seaflash 150


#8 JohnnyQuest

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Posted 14 October 2017 - 04:44 AM

On a semi-tangential note... what have been people's experiences with the newer, fine thread ULCS clamps? I've never been thrilled with how tight I've had to crank down my clamps, to keep them from moving - especially with longer arms and some sporty dive conditions.... my thought is that the fine threads should allow significantly greater clamping force for any given torque on the knob....

 

 

I like my ULCS arms, but I agree that the clamps can be a bit tough to fully tighten or loosen. I made these handles quickly as a prototype (out of scrap Azek), but they work so well that I haven't improved them yet. I was planning on connecting them via SS screws in lieu of the zip ties, but I've used these for about 100 dives, and I kind of like them. I'm a Canon shooter so I don't mind the white. Nikon shooters will probably prefer black.  ;)

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Edited by JohnnyQuest, 14 October 2017 - 04:45 AM.


#9 Rugani

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Posted 16 October 2017 - 09:51 PM

What about Reikle or Subtronic?

Are this systems as good as the Seacam arms?

Kind Regards

Armin



#10 echo2600

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 11:21 AM

@JohnnyQuest,

I like your solution... very simple and looks to be very effective. Thanks, for sharing.

#11 fizrinizam

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Posted 23 October 2017 - 07:21 AM

Nauticam arms are really good thats for sure.



#12 JohnnyQuest

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Posted 24 October 2017 - 03:37 PM

@JohnnyQuest,

I like your solution... very simple and looks to be very effective. Thanks, for sharing.

Thanks! But after looking at those photos I was embarrassed and followed my original plan with the SS hardware. Much better.   :) I found little nylon finish washers that fit perfectly.

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#13 Neil W

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Posted 26 October 2017 - 01:43 AM

In my (limited) experience I have found that having to tighten clamps excessively to prevent strobe arms from moving can be a sign that the O-rings on the balls need replacing - a new O-ring provides much more friction than a worn O-ring. Try to get the correct O-ring for your strobe arms as each manufacturer uses a slightly different thickness O-ring or a different sized groove to hold the O-ring. If your gear has had a bit of use then try replacing all of the O-rings on the arms - it can't do any harm. Again - don't use cheap aftermarket O-rings.

If you have a clamp attaching 2 arms from different manufacturers you may find there is more friction in the ball/socket joint of one arm compared to the other - try to keep to the same brand.

 

I like using ULCS, Inon and Howshot clamps. I had problems with I-Das/I-Dive clamps scratching the balls as they needed to be done up particularly tight (even with new O-rings). On close inspection I noticed that the surface area of the socket that mates to the ball is much less on the cheaper I-Dive clamps than on the expensive brands (Inon, ULCS etc).

Having a smaller area of contact between the ball and the socket seems to require the clamp to be tighter to obtain the same level of friction (keep in mind that this can be masked or magnified by clamps having a fine or coarse thread).

I also suspect that the manufacturing tolerances and quality control would be superior with the more expensive brands - the ball and socket need to be a good match in terms of size and shape.

 

Hope that helps.



#14 JMartel

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Posted 31 October 2017 - 11:38 AM

iDas for arms, Nauticam for clamps. 



#15 Rugani

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Posted 04 November 2017 - 01:18 AM

h2o tools and idas are really poor stuff

 

ULCS is great, with new Orings after 2 years i am happy again

 

I also love Nauticam







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