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New DX-1G


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#1 mbailey

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Posted 18 April 2008 - 04:39 AM

My new DX-1G arrived last night. I got the pro package. I have been shooting for years with a Nikonos V and wanted to move over to digital, after seeing so many great pictures from people on other dive trips using digital.

Any advice for a new DX-1G owner would be appreciated. At first blush everything looks good, just working my way through the manuals and getting familiar with the equipment.

One thing is that the information that comes with the package is spread out over all the seperate components. Does anyone know of a comprehensive guide for this camera?

Gotta go to work now.

#2 eskasi

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Posted 18 April 2008 - 07:50 AM

The DX-1G is essentially a Ricoh GX100. You may be able to find info on it in the Dpreview.com forums. I set mine up so that the Fn button was for manual focus. Remember that the back adj lever can be pressed in for quick access to menus like ISO, WB, etc. Very useful.

The camera cannot shoot TTL. Use the manual controls on the strobe instead. The 1G is not capable of adjusting strobe output hence this is "mirrored" through the optical link to the strobe. Manual strobe control is the only way to adjust flash output.

Get a focus light. Even an inexpensive one will help you tremendously. The LCD can be a bit dark at depth. Also, at night, you will need this to achieve focus. THe DX-IG housing has a hotshoe to attach such accessories.

Have fun!

#3 mbailey

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Posted 18 April 2008 - 09:43 AM

The DX-1G is essentially a Ricoh GX100. You may be able to find info on it in the Dpreview.com forums. I set mine up so that the Fn button was for manual focus. Remember that the back adj lever can be pressed in for quick access to menus like ISO, WB, etc. Very useful.

The camera cannot shoot TTL. Use the manual controls on the strobe instead. The 1G is not capable of adjusting strobe output hence this is "mirrored" through the optical link to the strobe. Manual strobe control is the only way to adjust flash output.

Get a focus light. Even an inexpensive one will help you tremendously. The LCD can be a bit dark at depth. Also, at night, you will need this to achieve focus. THe DX-IG housing has a hotshoe to attach such accessories.

Have fun!

Thanks for the info. By focus light do you just mean a flash light I can point at the subject or does anybody make one that fits in the acessory shoe? I have the YS110 that has an aiming light, is that strong enough to serve?

#4 eskasi

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Posted 18 April 2008 - 01:47 PM

Don't use the aiming light from the strobe. I am sure your experience will show that the aiming light from the strobe (if used for focus illumination) may result in backscatter,

Even a Q40...or any little torch which you use handheld is enough. I use my torch, illuminate the subject, lock focus, remove the focus light and take the shot. You will be surprised at how much this helps your macro attempts. Point your strobes just away/outside from the subject, shine the torch at the subject itself and lock focus.....then remove the focus light and take the shot. For WA, it may be a bit more difficult.

You essentially want to just "catch" the subject with the edge of the flash output......however, in order to focus, you use a handheld torch to achieve this...and removing it just before the picture is taken

Edited by eskasi, 18 April 2008 - 01:52 PM.


#5 mbailey

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Posted 19 April 2008 - 07:28 AM

Don't use the aiming light from the strobe. I am sure your experience will show that the aiming light from the strobe (if used for focus illumination) may result in backscatter,

Even a Q40...or any little torch which you use handheld is enough. I use my torch, illuminate the subject, lock focus, remove the focus light and take the shot. You will be surprised at how much this helps your macro attempts. Point your strobes just away/outside from the subject, shine the torch at the subject itself and lock focus.....then remove the focus light and take the shot. For WA, it may be a bit more difficult.

You essentially want to just "catch" the subject with the edge of the flash output......however, in order to focus, you use a handheld torch to achieve this...and removing it just before the picture is taken

Thanks again. I am going to Belize next month and will put you advice to the test there.

I bought an 8GB SDHC card and it works great. Allowing for 496 raw files.

The Belize trip will serve as a shakedown for the DX-1G. In October I am going to Komodo Island in Indonesia.

#6 ce4jesus

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Posted 19 April 2008 - 08:44 AM

Here's one I've been eye balling but don't know if I should switch from what I have. http://cgi.ebay.com/...Q2em118Q2el1247

It is suppose to shut off when it senses a strobe
Gary
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#7 eskasi

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Posted 20 April 2008 - 01:45 AM

I looked at that too. However, Fisheye sells the same torch but has got many bad reviews about flooding issues. That would be great as you could have it pointed at the subject at all times and it could be attached to the housing or one of the arms....

I use the Aunoc K2..... its about the size of my thumb and made out of Aluminum. Throws out an incredible amount of light (1watt) for something so tiny.

#8 XCY

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Posted 21 April 2008 - 08:02 PM

The DX-1G is essentially a Ricoh GX100. You may be able to find info on it in the Dpreview.com forums. I set mine up so that the Fn button was for manual focus. Remember that the back adj lever can be pressed in for quick access to menus like ISO, WB, etc. Very useful.

The camera cannot shoot TTL. Use the manual controls on the strobe instead. The 1G is not capable of adjusting strobe output hence this is "mirrored" through the optical link to the strobe. Manual strobe control is the only way to adjust flash output.

Get a focus light. Even an inexpensive one will help you tremendously. The LCD can be a bit dark at depth. Also, at night, you will need this to achieve focus. THe DX-IG housing has a hotshoe to attach such accessories.

Have fun!


The LCD is really dimmed in manual mode and you will have difficulties in seeing what you want. With a focus light ( mine is fisheye 20DX :) ), you will see the difference. BTW, does anyone have the experience with the WA and macro lens (seatool or the S&S)?
Cheers! :)

#9 eskasi

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Posted 22 April 2008 - 01:47 AM

The LCD is really dimmed in manual mode and you will have difficulties in seeing what you want. With a focus light ( mine is fisheye 20DX :) ), you will see the difference. BTW, does anyone have the experience with the WA and macro lens (seatool or the S&S)?
Cheers! :)



I have the WA lens.....very effective for certain shots....easy to take off store with the holder I also bought. Here is a sample (DX-1G and S&S WA lens)

Posted Image

I don't thing a Macro lens will help as this camera already focuses so close to the subject. In fact, there isn't one for sale unless you use something like a Woody's lens (Nexus/Anthis Diopter). Macro lenses/diopters further reduce the working distance.....this is a picture I took of a Pygmy....I was almost touching it (2-3cm away) and had to be very careful. It didn't seem to mind as the current was real strong and it was clinging on real hard anyway. Keep in mind that the photo has been cropped;

Posted Image
and a Mandarin fish....all were taken at Mabul/Sipadan Malaysia

Posted Image

#10 mbailey

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Posted 25 April 2008 - 02:41 PM

Thanks for all the good advice! I am heading to Belize May 10 and will post some photos when I return.

Does anybody know if it is OK to download firmware updates for the Ricoh 100GX to the Sea & Sea version?

My concern is that it may conflict with any changes made By Sea & Sea. (i.e. the Seas & Sea Mode)


thanks

#11 XCY

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Posted 28 April 2008 - 12:11 AM

Thanks for all the good advice! I am heading to Belize May 10 and will post some photos when I return.

Does anybody know if it is OK to download firmware updates for the Ricoh 100GX to the Sea & Sea version?

My concern is that it may conflict with any changes made By Sea & Sea. (i.e. the Seas & Sea Mode)
thanks


Please don't do so or you will lose the sea & sea mode. B)

#12 mbailey

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Posted 23 May 2008 - 04:31 PM

Here are a couple of shots fro my trip to Belize with the new DX-1G

1.jpg 1.jpg

#13 eskasi

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Posted 29 May 2008 - 07:37 AM

I love the turtle and diver shot! Sharp....

#14 E_viking

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Posted 04 June 2008 - 11:27 AM

Hi,

I think that Fisheye has some macro lenses for it and Sea&Sea are supposed to be on the way with something on their own.

/Erik

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#15 TheDeepDweller

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Posted 05 June 2008 - 08:43 AM

Hi,
Have just been informed that my new DX-1G w. YS-110 has been dispatched so will be looking for a bigger memory card, could you tell me which make / model of 8gb card you have as the S&S specs sheet says only up to 4gb is compatible?
Also are you finding the battery life OK? The S&S specs are for 30 pics per set of AAAs which doesn't seem much, or do you have the DB-60 rechargeable battery?
PS some great pics on here.
Many thanks,
TDD

Edited by TheDeepDweller, 05 June 2008 - 08:54 AM.


#16 mbailey

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Posted 08 June 2008 - 10:14 AM

I am using a SanDisk UltraII 8 GB HDSC card, and have experienced no problems. I think the manual says 4GB, because when it was written, that was the max size available.

I took a 4gb card along too, just in case.

I really like this setup. I dove with a Nikinos V for many years, but focus was my main problem. I am using the rechargable battery and did experience battery failure on one dive, but thatwas my fault. Inexperience. One thing to save posser is to set the screen on preference so that it goes dark after 1 min of inactivity. I had my set to 5 min. and it really eats through the battery time!

The diving on this trip was a little problematic, due to rough water and over-loaded dive boats. I was having trouble reading the screen in the water, partly due to a mask fogging issue and partly due to the screen getting dark. (Also a little age-related nearsightedness)

I shot entirely in manual mode and was consistently underexposed. Fortunately the RAW format is very forgiving. I attribute all this to my inexperience with the rig and expect to do much better. I am very leased with the camera and the setup.

I am going to be on the Komodo Aggressor in October and hope to perfect my technique.

Here are a few more photos with the wide angle lens1group.jpg 2Turtle.jpg 3Canyon.jpg

Edited by mbailey, 08 June 2008 - 10:28 AM.


#17 TheDeepDweller

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Posted 08 June 2008 - 10:50 AM

Thanks,
It would make more sense that it would be compatible with any sdhc card, I think they are up to 16 or 32 gb by now, but a couple of 8's should be more than enough for a 2 dive day.
Didn't realise that the place I ordered mine bundles a battery and charger with it (Cameras Underwater in Devon). I will likely pick up a second battery though I am very impressed so far - only had time to charge it for about an hour and so far have had a couple of hundred shots just messing around, now I just need to get away from work long enough to get it wet!
Housed unit is impressively small as well, it's only a touch bigger than my wife's d70, and thats without her Ike housing. Looks to be just what I was looking for, though I think I'll have to get the wide lens as well, those shots of yours look cracking.
Many thanks,
TDD

#18 mbailey

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Posted 08 June 2008 - 12:00 PM

yes, the wide-angel is great! Just remember to burp it after entering the water. And if you do get it, definitely get the caddie for stowage purposes

#19 Travy

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Posted 10 June 2008 - 05:07 AM

I am using a SanDisk UltraII 8 GB HDSC card, and have experienced no problems. I think the manual says 4GB, because when it was written, that was the max size available.

I took a 4gb card along too, just in case.

I really like this setup. I dove with a Nikinos V for many years, but focus was my main problem. I am using the rechargable battery and did experience battery failure on one dive, but thatwas my fault. Inexperience. One thing to save posser is to set the screen on preference so that it goes dark after 1 min of inactivity. I had my set to 5 min. and it really eats through the battery time!

The diving on this trip was a little problematic, due to rough water and over-loaded dive boats. I was having trouble reading the screen in the water, partly due to a mask fogging issue and partly due to the screen getting dark. (Also a little age-related nearsightedness)

I shot entirely in manual mode and was consistently underexposed. Fortunately the RAW format is very forgiving. I attribute all this to my inexperience with the rig and expect to do much better. I am very leased with the camera and the setup.

I am going to be on the Komodo Aggressor in October and hope to perfect my technique.

Here are a few more photos with the wide angle lens1group.jpg 2Turtle.jpg 3Canyon.jpg



There's some nice colour reproduction with the turtle.Are those just raw pics no photoshop adjustments?
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#20 mbailey

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Posted 10 June 2008 - 05:10 AM

There's some nice colour reproduction with the turtle.Are those just raw pics no photoshop adjustments?

THey are RAW format, but have been worked on some in photoshop