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Halation Problems

halation Nikon problem halo

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#1 sylviajenkins

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Posted 05 February 2018 - 07:40 PM

Recently in the past few weeks have a reoccurring problem of halation around the edges of mostly skin tones but also other relatively "bright&reflective" surfaces, I have cleaned my dome (outside only) a few times now but doesn't seem to be doing the trick.. Maybe its an internal sensor problem?! 

Anyone else had this problem and know how to fix it?? Its driving me a little bonkers!! 

Waving diver image shot : ISO 200, f9 and 1/200. with a Nikon d7200 
Jumping into water shot: ISO 200, f8 and 1/640. with a Nikon d7200 

cgd-1.jpg vd-1.jpg

Many Thanks!



#2 troporobo

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Posted 05 February 2018 - 11:27 PM

That is really weird.  Maybe there is something going on in the file conversion - does the problem show up in the RAW file as well as the JPG file?  



#3 Undertow

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Posted 05 February 2018 - 11:45 PM

Its likely not a sensor issue. Generally this is created by some form of 'fogginess' somewhere within the light path. Beyond the obvious of cleanliness it could be:

 

1. Within the lens from mold, but usually only excessive mold. 

 

2. Outside the lens within the port from condensation. This can be from an uncovered port sitting in the sun or just a warm camera rig taken into colder water. It can take a long time to dissipate on its own. 

 

3. Due to the UW visibility especially with bright areas.

 

Regarding #3 - this is something I've seen regularly with multiple camera rigs shooting humpback whales in open water in midday sun. Their white pectoral fins are so much brighter than anything else and surrounded by these halos. Its better controlled on newer cameras but many times unavoidable. It can happen in good visibility but is far worse in poor visibility. 

 

I've also personally seen this with scenarios 1 & 2.

 

Beyond that my port even has what some on here have described as mineral deposits on the outside from the water over years of use and imperfect care. Its visible on the port when looking at certain angles and light. Pretty sure it contributes. Planning to try and polish it off. 

 

Hope that helps. Cheers,

 

Chris


Edited by Undertow, 05 February 2018 - 11:54 PM.


#4 phxazcraig

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Posted 06 March 2018 - 08:09 AM

Looks to me like a post=processing issue.   Can you tell us how your images get processed?   In-camera settings?   Any customization done to the camera settings?   Are you using D-lighting set on high?



#5 Undertow

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Posted 09 March 2018 - 10:17 AM

Looks to me like a post=processing issue.   Can you tell us how your images get processed?   In-camera settings?   Any customization done to the camera settings?   Are you using D-lighting set on high?

 

Sorry but its definitely not a post processing issue.

 

To simplify my post above I'm 95% sure its condensation inside the port from overheating as the housing sits in the sun. This can happen very quickly if the port's uncovered but can still happen with the port covered. It can take a very long time to dissipate and be exacerbated by the cool water (greater temp difference b/w inside and outside of housing), ruining entire dives. 

 

Cheers,

 

Chris



#6 Tom_Kline

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Posted 09 March 2018 - 01:21 PM

The shot showing the glow around the hand is likely due to light scattering by water and stuff in the water. Solutions are to get closer and to move light source more to the side (to avoid straight back reflection of light off subject). These solutions may not be possible for all scenarios. I have had to toss a number of pix because of this myself.

 

Not sure exactly what the issue is with second pic.  Keep in mind if you are using an underwater camera rig for topside shots there will likely be issues related to the extra glass (not part of the lens design of the lens being used) such as the port. Drops of water being the main problem. However there may be issues like those one gets from using filters: especially lens flare. These issues have not stopped me from taking topside shots with an underwater rig :->>
 

If the lens or port being used has issues as described by Undertow, then they would factor in as well. However, one can get your glow even with OK optics.


Edited by Tom_Kline, 09 March 2018 - 01:25 PM.

Thomas C. Kline, Jr., Ph. D.
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Currently used housed digital cameras: Canon EOS-1Ds MkIII, EOS-1D MkIV, and EOS-1DX; and Nikon D3X. More or less retired: Canon EOS-1Ds MkII; and Nikon D1X, D2X, and D2H.

Lens focal lengths ranging from 8 to 200mm for UW use. Seacam housings and remote control gear. Seacam 60D, 150D, and 250D, Sea&Sea YS250, and Inon Z220 strobes.

http://www.salmonography.com/

 


#7 ChrigelKarrer

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 09:47 AM

I had and have this problem sometimes too.
As i keep front lens and domes/ports very clean it's not that
Also if it's stronger consendation then it makes more a overall "David Hamilton" effect, not only on white parts.
I have my housings always wrapped in a towel and on the shadow and no condensation occurs, you may try that too to avoid that possibility
It may be some micro fog in high humidty environments, to avoid that fill and close the housing in our A/C appt the evening before and don't open it again

I suspected a dirty sensor, but maybe i am wrong as then the same would occur if you shoot a similar photo on land to see if the same happens
However, have you sensor professionally cleaned and see if that solves the problem

Don't use additional filters inside the housing and shoot only RAW to exclude in-camera picture processing

 

Chris
 


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