Now you have me wondering how to improve the data. I could theoretically build a circular set of photodiodes and put the strobe at the center, but keeping it round is going to be tricky. I know that the distances involved increase with angle but for my purposes I was trying to compare strobes rather than try to calculate f-stops. I will also try to get my UW light meter repaired, that would make it simpler to do.
Fstops can be calculated from linear data as they are relative. So to me any scale is good. Can you get your hands on a seacam or ikelite strobe would love to check those out
These photo divers recently had bad experiences, at times impacted trips, regardless of why the strobe failed.
They posted their bad experiences to benefit the rest of us.
Those who deny or try to hide these bad experiences may have ulterior motives,
such as to support and encourage the sale of problem products, ie, two well known strobe makes.
It seems smart to read and listen, mull over and learn from the good and bad experiences of others.
As the saying goes:
“Experience is a master teacher, even when it's not our own.”
Sorry but your accusations are laughable. Nobody is hiding anything the spirit of wetpixel forums is exactly one of putting your experience out there and see if there is someone that can help nobody is removing posts or minimising what has happened to fellow divers and photographers
You have put together a series of link that just do not prove the point you are trying to make. Many of those refer to user errors, floods or circumstances that do not relate to a proper use of the device and as such can't be considered faults
The only issue that is concerning in my opinion is the one of Sea and Sea YS-D2 here we are presented with a systematic manufacturing defect and the appropriate response should be a total recall of the products and service free of charge even out of warranty, it appears this has not happened and probably a consumer campaign would be worth it even considering the small size of the markets
Other episodes of users burning a flash tube of a strobe bought second hand without knowledge of previous use are very hard to link to any manufacturer intent
And finally we all have to acknowledge that most flashes are put to use in conditions that will potentially harm them one example that is quite clear to me is snoots
If you look at Inon snoot (that is not that ergonomic) and read the documentation it tells you that the flash tube need some space in water to cool down and that is why the snoot is designed that way then you go and look at other solution made flat on the strobe totally built in plastic you know that firing many shots will definitely kill the bulbs still people do it and wonder why the strobes die?
Underwater photography is a small industry where everyone knows everyone else brands that take good care of consumers get rewarded and at the same time some consumers choose to pay less maybe without knowing they will receive less service this is not unusual but typically you get what you pay for and warranty costs are built as part of your retail price. If that allowance is not there you will most likely receive poor service. Based on my personal experience of after sale with Sea and Sea and Inon I can say nobody refused to repair the strobe and in one case I preferred not to proceed however I still understand that repairing a device is expensive and there is absolutely no will by the distributor to train someone to make repairs when the size of the market is so small this is just reality and economics
I don't see evidence in the 13 links posted of bad behaviour of the manufacturer or the service center. With exception of YS-D2 issue that are a manufacturing problem well known the others are a mix of user error, floods, or some lack of functionality or understanding of it that cannot be classed as defect
I believe it is not very productive to go down this route. Based on my limited personal experience I have had 5 strobes, 1 was damaged by my error and yes the service response was not satisfactory but the unit kept working, one was repaired in warranty the others have had no issues
So far I have a 20% defect rate and 100% correction rate I consider strobe long lasting assets that have survived many cameras changes without problems
DSLR because of larger sensor have depth of field challenges in video so in my opinion for 4K there is no need for an SLR as long as you don-t need high ISO performance the next step from BPMCC would be a Red I would not bother at all with Nikon Canon Sony full frame for video although others have great results so it is a matter of personal preference
On the contrary, it is very clear what the connection between strobe power and F-stop number is:
100% = full
50% = -1 F-stop
25% = -2F-stop
12% = -3F-stop
It is also clear that the Inon will fire when the capacitors are at about 20% (before the ready light is turned on). Read the first two posts where the measurements are presented. After this I have confirmed on four different Z-330 the same result.
Now let me ask you: If you knew the Z-330 indicates the ready light (full charge) when it is charged to about 30-40% (-1.4 F-stop less power), would you buy it?
I know a lot of photographers who would think about it twice if they knew the actual recycle time was about 4-5 seconds.
My Z-330's aren't going away for this reason but I want to point out that it is very unfair to photographers who are making choices on their purchase based on completely false and misleading specifications.
I think you have some expectations of what certain specifications are that are not what manufacturers mean
When I read Inon Z330 specifications it says recycle time Approx. 1.8 seconds minimum ["eneloop" batteries]
Reading Sea and Sea specifications the language is different [Recycle time (full)*2] A: 2.5 sec. Ni-MH: 1.9 sec.
On Ikelite DS-160 it mentions 1.5 second recycle time at full power
My interpretation of those specifications is that once you output a full power flash this is the minimum amount of time you need to wait to fire again but there is no specifications anywhere to say that it will do so at full power.
So what is happening here is that you are expecting the strobe to give a ready signal when full charge is reached but this is not what is happening the ready lamp in all cases comes as soon as the strobe can fire and output whatever it can.
If you look at some example xenon tubes you see how much variation there is between tubes and you can also see that some will fire at over 50% some can fire at 18% of full power.
Example circular 100J tube trigger between 250-500 Volts min power 25% (-2 stops)
circular 200J tube trigger between 300-700 Volts min power 18% (more than -2)
linear 50J tube trigger between 280-360 Volts min power 60% (less than 1 stop)
linear 100J tube trigger between 300-450 Volts min power 44% (more than 1 stop)
linear 200J tune trigger between 330-450 Volts min power 53% (less than 1 stop)
So what I believe is happening here is that a combination of different design and different bulbs is producing more difference between the ready light and full power
Technically all strobes are 'ready' but the power they can produce varies maybe what would be useful would be not just to have a ready light but also an (almost) full light but frankly I won't be looking at the strobe to fire nor I want the strobe to only fire when it reaches 98% so what is key is to know how long does it take to cycle between full to full without this becoming the ready signal
Re Reefnet Subsee vs CMC-1 they are totally different lenses
The reason why I use the subsee is because the 14-42 lens stops focussing at around 10-11” from the port. You now have a wide area of work and if you go with the CMC-2 you jump to 3-4” from the subject
So the lenses you need must be weaker either the subsee 5 or the inon 165. The optical quality of the subsee is far better than the inon so this is what I use, the gap from the port with the flip is irrelevant at 6-10” working distance
Once the subset stops focussing the next lens is the CMC-2
Everything is fully explained on my blog in the post macro rig
Re Keldan the filter is set up on land and frankly removing the WWL-1 in water to put it on a arm is impossible once you fit the buoyancy collar so I have not invested in the bayonet mounts for the close up lenses because they are bulky and heavy
I do not use the power zoom lens because it does not leverage dual IS on the GH5 body. The PZ has a nice smooth zooming action but the 14-42MKII is sharper this is the lens I use and I have had them both I sold the PZ. If you had a BMPCC 4K or a GH5s with no stabilization than maybe the PZ is better
In terms of macro it is not a macro lens you need to use diopters
Here is the picture of the top view i changed out the cold shoe to the strobe mounting ball SKU#25111 it is much more secure in my opinion all left control knob and right control knob is acessible it feel just like using it without monitor for me.
Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
Better than top mount for wide angle. Do you use it with hdmi out clean and the monitor tools or just duplicate the camera lcd?
I apologise for the slightly off topic question, but if beam angle isn't that important for double strobe setups, wouldn't it be preferable in most situations to not use diffusers that widen beam angle at the cost of power (especially on weaker strobes like YS-01 or S2000)? So far I've always defaulted to using diffusers. Maybe that was wrong?
That is not what I said beam angle is important but clearly past the 110 degrees is very hard to get anything really meaningful looking at those tests and this is a combination of physics of light and physics of the strobe bulb
Diffusers are useful for non circular bulbs like your sea and sea and the inon. Less interesting for circular bulbs
Without a diffuser the beam will be a rectangle or a cross not a circle. Clearly when you are so close that even that rectangle completely covers the subject it does not matter that much but how do you know.
That video is awesome, by the way. I wish i could get that kind of ambient light and viz when I dive with the NC sand tiger sharks...
Anyway, one last question. I will need to preset my camera's focus before I put it in the housing. Doing that on dry land, what distance should I set the focus to? I imagine that 20cm under water, behind the WWL-1, translates to a different distance on land, with only the kit lens and no dome.
Someday, I will upgrade to a better camera and a better housing. But, for now, I have a Meikon housing and I cannot adjust the focus once the camera is in the housing.
Focus in water on your hand fin etc is best then switch to manual or start in manual with push on
I do it in water as the wwl is not a land lens
You dont need manual focus ring
But, let me make sure I understand. During a typical dive for me (shooting sharks and wrecks) the distance to my subject (from the front of the lens) might be anywhere from, say 2 feet (~50cm?) to 10 feet (3 - 4m).
Are you suggesting that setting the focus manually to 20cm is going to give me truly sharp results over that whole range? For the sake of discussion, let's just assume I set an aperture of f/5.6.
i have never tried shooting with Manual focus. If that would work, that would be great. Eliminating focus lag and out of focus shots is the whole reason I was looking at getting a focus light.
This video has been taken focussing only once with the same lens as yours
When you set your focus at one foot (not from the top of the WWL but from the top of the port so say 20 cm) then switch to manual focus anything between 20 cm and infinity will be in focus anyway there is very little difference between f/5.6 f/8 etc it only extends the focus right to the front of the glass just dont exceed f/11 as optical quality will drop due to diffraction
With the Z240 you can shoot at f/8 and iso 200 the sharpness is at its best and literally everything will be sharp