
New rig feedback requested.
#1
Posted 10 December 2012 - 07:08 AM
OM-D EM-5
PT-EO8
8mm Pana
Zen 100mm Dome
Dual Inon Z240-2
I have never shot WA like this so I am very green.
Olympus E-620 - PT-E06 - 50mm Zuiko - Athena 50mm Port - Dual Inon Z240-3 - ULCS system
Learned a LOT from folks on the internet, Thanks!
#2
Posted 10 December 2012 - 01:34 PM
Nikon D7100 and D90 in Aquatica Housing, Tokina 10-17mm, 60mm macro, 105mm macro, Sigma 17-70mm, + Ikelite DS 161 and DS-125 strobe combo http://www.pmurph.com www.flickr.com/photos/pammurph/ The Fin Foundation
#3
Posted 10 December 2012 - 02:07 PM
F/11, 1/250, ISO200, center weighted
Olympus E-620 - PT-E06 - 50mm Zuiko - Athena 50mm Port - Dual Inon Z240-3 - ULCS system
Learned a LOT from folks on the internet, Thanks!
#4
Posted 10 December 2012 - 02:43 PM
Kirk
#5
Posted 10 December 2012 - 03:04 PM
Olympus E-620 - PT-E06 - 50mm Zuiko - Athena 50mm Port - Dual Inon Z240-3 - ULCS system
Learned a LOT from folks on the internet, Thanks!
#6
Posted 10 December 2012 - 03:12 PM
#7
Posted 10 December 2012 - 04:21 PM
Looks underexposed. I would also get closer or simply crop this image. Also, point the strobes more outwards to avoid the backscatter.
I always think overexposed because I am drawn to the light, and that is at the bottom where there is nothing!

So move the strobes further out, point them more outwards, and maybe position them a little higher? Or at least pointed more upward?
- tdpriest likes this
Olympus E-620 - PT-E06 - 50mm Zuiko - Athena 50mm Port - Dual Inon Z240-3 - ULCS system
Learned a LOT from folks on the internet, Thanks!
#8
Posted 10 December 2012 - 08:18 PM
So move the strobes further out, point them more outwards, and maybe position them a little higher? Or at least pointed more upward?
That should help.
#9
Posted 10 December 2012 - 09:17 PM
#10
Posted 11 December 2012 - 11:12 AM
Gotcha, I was actually thinking the opposite and keeping the shutter speed high to reduce ambient light.I think underexposed refers more to the elements not lit by the strobe. A slower shutter speed would have allowed a brighter blue without making much difference to the strobe-lit foreground. A lighter background would have helped to disguise some of the backscatter as well.
Olympus E-620 - PT-E06 - 50mm Zuiko - Athena 50mm Port - Dual Inon Z240-3 - ULCS system
Learned a LOT from folks on the internet, Thanks!
#11
Posted 20 December 2012 - 05:43 AM
I would shoot this sort of subject by getting close, shooting upwards to remove the sand from the frame, and choosing a shutter speed to get the colour of the blue background right:

Edited by tdpriest, 20 December 2012 - 05:54 AM.
- aydelette likes this
#12
Posted 20 December 2012 - 05:47 PM
Happy shooting. Looking forward to seeing more of your stuff - DiverPam
Nikon D7100 and D90 in Aquatica Housing, Tokina 10-17mm, 60mm macro, 105mm macro, Sigma 17-70mm, + Ikelite DS 161 and DS-125 strobe combo http://www.pmurph.com www.flickr.com/photos/pammurph/ The Fin Foundation
#13
Posted 08 January 2013 - 11:33 PM
Hi Pam,Next time you are in the water with this new setup, try this (from Martin Edge's book) to help you get a sense of what setting to start with for getting the blues you want in the background. Using wide anlge setup and no strobes, pick a spot and shoot into the blue water different f stops and shutter speeds. Keep going until you get the type of blue you like. Make a note of what f stop and shutter speed you like best. Then use this as a starting place when you add your strobes to fill in the foreground. It really does help to try this exercise - and it can help give you a sense of how ambient light can work with your strobes to fill in the main focus of your picture. I was having a horrible time of lighting my wide angles stuff until I worked on this piece and understood how I wanted the blues to look.
Happy shooting. Looking forward to seeing more of your stuff - DiverPam
that is a very nice piece of advice!
- aydelette likes this