Bevanj

I got bored and have just been doing some testing on my Z330s with an oscilloscope and some photodiodes. If anyone is interested, and as curious as me... here's a rough table of the flash durations of the Z330! They're not T.1 measurements, but are pretty close.

FULL = 3300us = 0.0033sec

-0.5 = 680us     = 0.000680sec

-1.0 = 534us     = 0.000534sec 

-1.5 = 430us     = 0.000430sec

-2.0 = 348us     = 0.000348sec

-2.5 = 300us     = 0.000300sec

-3.0 = 257us     = 0.000257sec

-3.5 = 221us     = 0.000221sec

-4.0 = 186us     = 0.000186sec

-4.5 = 165us     = 0.000165sec

-5.0 = 130us     = 0.000130sec

-5.5 = 110us     = 0.000110sec

-6.0 = 97us       = 0.000097sec

For an interesting comparison of output power.... with the standard -0.3 soft diffuser in place, the Z330 somewhere between -2 and -1.5 (348us-430us) settings puts out the same amount of light as a 580EXII on full power (5600us!) with the wide angle 14mm diffuser flipped down. Impressive! The colour temperature is very different too - but that is to be expected.  

Bevan

Hi All, 

I know that I'm relatively new here, but I thought I'd check if anyone is interested in a super simple LED trigger for their CANON Nauticam housing? 

I set out to design a board for a simple optical trigger to fit to my NA-5DSR housing powered by two CR1632 batteries.

If there is interest, I could knock up a few more. They may make a good backup for those of you shooting with more expensive optical triggers.

Since it's very simple, it only does 1st curtain sync, and manual strobe adjustment. 

It has no trouble triggering my new Z-330s (Thanks Peter Mooney!). I'll try and see if I can test it with a friends YS-D2s sometime in the next week or two. Hopefully it should be fine - I'm using 15 degree beam angle CREE LEDs, and they're incredibly bright.

With the board installed, there are two 10mm tall spacers between it and the housing with longer M3 screws for mounting. I've got some proper stainless ones on the way.

I'm not a business, I'm not commercial. I'll simply be making these on my desk in the spare room if there is interest. Hopefully this doesn't violate the Ts&Cs of the classifieds forum. 

Bevan

Hi All, 

If anyone has got some deceased Ike DS125/DS160/DS161 packs lying around they want to get rid of, I'd be keen to get my hands on them. Lithium or NIMH.

I'm in New Zealand.

Thanks,
Bevan

Hi, 

I'm just wondering if anyone has any experience with this lens yet, be it on EF or Sony-E mount? 

At less than half the price of the Canon 14mm, it looks like a real contender.

Bevan

Hey guys and gals, 

For those of you with Nauticam vacuum valves and DSLR housings, how much vacuum have you been putting in your housings? Obviously the more vacuum present in the housing after the light turns green, the more water which will enter the housing before it starts flashing yellow in a worst case scenario. Yet, with not enough vacuum, it seems to make it more prone to falsely giving a yellow flashing light indicating a leak even though it is supposedly temperature compensated. Go figure... 
 
I've been using the standard Nauticam pump to get my housing past the yellow flashing light, into the green. Then, I bleed air into the housing using the valve at a very very slow rate until it just starts flashing again. Then, I chuck the pump back on, and give it one pump to get it back into the green again. Seems to do the trick for me.

Bleeding air in after this setup seems to indicate very little leaking required before it starts flashing yellow, but I have yet to have it false trigger after this.

How are other people doing things? 

Bevan