Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Would love to get this fixed today if at all possible, as we were hoping to dive tomorrow.
Thanks!
Edited by Rainer, 28 September 2012 - 02:24 PM.
Posted 28 September 2012 - 01:55 PM
Edited by Rainer, 28 September 2012 - 02:24 PM.
Posted 28 September 2012 - 04:20 PM
Bill
Canon 7d, Nauticam, Lots of glass, Olympus OMD-EM5, Nauticam, 60 macro, 45 macro, 8 mm fisheye, Inon, S&S, Athena Strobes plus lots of fiddly bits.
www.blueviews.net
Posted 28 September 2012 - 04:21 PM
Edited by JimSwims, 28 September 2012 - 04:24 PM.
Underwater Images My portfolio on Redbubble Topside Nature Images
In between housings. Nikon 60mm, 105mm, 10-24mm, 18-55mm, Tokina 10-17mm, Kenko 1.4 TC, SubSee +5 & +10 magnifiers & Inon Z240 strobes.
Posted 28 September 2012 - 04:47 PM
Are you shooting manual or TTL. If TTL and the strobes are pointing at each other and you have focus assist on the strobes may be shooting each other in the foot. Do they work individually i.e. if you have only one turned on does it fire correctly?
Bill
Posted 28 September 2012 - 04:51 PM
Hi Rainer,
my guess would be you need to set the ACC button correctly as well as check you have correct flash setting on D7000.
Have a read of Reefs helpful info page about it- http://www.reefphoto.com/kb.php?id=7
I also found this thread very helpful when I first started with my D90- http://wetpixel.com/...pic=32409&st=20
Have you tried also swapping the cables about to eliminate any faults with one of them?
Cheers,
Jim.
Posted 28 September 2012 - 04:58 PM
I'll go try switching the cables in a minutes.
Posted 28 September 2012 - 05:34 PM
Underwater Images My portfolio on Redbubble Topside Nature Images
In between housings. Nikon 60mm, 105mm, 10-24mm, 18-55mm, Tokina 10-17mm, Kenko 1.4 TC, SubSee +5 & +10 magnifiers & Inon Z240 strobes.
Posted 28 September 2012 - 05:44 PM
Hmmmm
So are your two Z240 strobes different type models? There is a black sticker next to optical connection that has
the strobes details on it. I tend to doubt it would be but I wonder if that could that be the cause?
1. What flash setting do you have on camera? You want it on TTL.
2. Are the strobes set to exactly same setting? Left top dial STTL, Right top set to B, Bottom left Up(mine works fine set down too).
Are the Optic fibre cables clear at the ends? You could try re-cutting the end that fits to housing making sure you use a fresh
blade for a clean cut.
If one strobe is functioning correctly then it should be an issue with the second strobe or its connection.
Posted 29 September 2012 - 05:10 AM
One is a IV, the other *was* a III, but had the internals upgraded to a IV (according to the seller and included paperwork).
What do you make of it working in manual mode (synching), but not in TTL?
Edited by JimSwims, 29 September 2012 - 05:14 AM.
Underwater Images My portfolio on Redbubble Topside Nature Images
In between housings. Nikon 60mm, 105mm, 10-24mm, 18-55mm, Tokina 10-17mm, Kenko 1.4 TC, SubSee +5 & +10 magnifiers & Inon Z240 strobes.
Posted 29 September 2012 - 05:37 AM
Is it the upgraded Type 3 that is missing sync, could it be worth contacting the seller about your issue?
If you can re-cut the strobe end of the cables then why not I guess. Are the housing cable connections clean,
no sand or salt build up in one?
Would be best to stick to having the Right Top dial set to A, B or C while you are going through the process of elimination.
Really hope you get to the bottom of this, I think I'm just about out of ideas.
Posted 29 September 2012 - 11:05 AM
Bill
Canon 7d, Nauticam, Lots of glass, Olympus OMD-EM5, Nauticam, 60 macro, 45 macro, 8 mm fisheye, Inon, S&S, Athena Strobes plus lots of fiddly bits.
www.blueviews.net
Posted 29 September 2012 - 11:20 AM
If I understand it right, with all the buttons set the same, one strobe syncs TTL fine with either of two cables (I was unaware that the type 4 connector was different than the type III, are you sure they are really different) and the other strobe doesn't sync TTL at all with the either cable. And the push-in for the preflash is the same for both? In that case, it would appear to be a strobe problem, not a cable or camera problem.
I would ask the seller if he was running it "fine" in TTL or only in manual.
Bill
Posted 29 September 2012 - 02:06 PM
Posted 29 September 2012 - 03:22 PM
Edited by johnjvv, 29 September 2012 - 03:27 PM.
Posted 29 September 2012 - 03:26 PM
Posted 30 September 2012 - 12:23 AM
Posted 30 September 2012 - 05:57 AM
can you decrease the shutter speed until the point you do see both strobe light up in the mirror?
Also, does it happen when using other cameras? Maybe something with a simple pre-flash?
Underwater Images My portfolio on Redbubble Topside Nature Images
In between housings. Nikon 60mm, 105mm, 10-24mm, 18-55mm, Tokina 10-17mm, Kenko 1.4 TC, SubSee +5 & +10 magnifiers & Inon Z240 strobes.
Posted 30 September 2012 - 11:38 AM
Give it a try without the sync cables attached to the strobes...ie take your camera out of the housing and expose the sensor that the FO cable fixes to...take a pic pointing your camera flash to the strobe sensors. Run your test again.
If you get the same results then you'll know for sure that it is not a cable issue or vice versa....
Also what is your camera shutter speed?
Posted 30 September 2012 - 11:40 AM
can you decrease the shutter speed until the point you do see both strobe light up in the mirror?
Also, does it happen when using other cameras? Maybe something with a simple pre-flash?
Posted 30 September 2012 - 11:47 AM
Strobe should be syncing no matter what the shutter speed, it isn't going to be too fast with the cameras
flash popped up. This strobe should work perfectly fine with a D7000 if it is functioning correctly.
Inon introduced a smaller optical sensor with the S2000 in 2009. This upgrade came out on the Z240 and
D2000 strobes soon after(Type 4).
The fact that one strobe functions correctly whilst the other doesn't does point to it being an issue with the
2nd strobe.
Rainer if you haven't already I'd test using only the problematic unit and have a go with the Bottom Right
switch locked down; ACC disabled.
One other thing, you haven't got the cameras flash set to Red eye reduction have you? Check the info
window on top, there is a little square in the top left. If you see an eye icon in that then you'll want to switch
that off.