Well you are going to run into some laws of physics issues. The SMC is stronger than +10, it is about a plus 12 or 12.5. The CMC is stronger, the SMC-2 is stronger still, BUT as you add diopter power working distance and DOF will both get smaller. With the 105 the +10 will give you about 2.2 magnification, while the SMC will give you about 2.5 x. WIth the 60 the +10 will give you 1.5 x and the SMC will give you about 1.7 x.
I just ordered some of the same multi-fiber material that S&S and Nauticam use, I will see if it can be coiled. BUT using standard 1 mm fiber, my new coiled cables can trigger YS-D1 strobes from the Nauticam LED trigger.
Coiling of fiber cables can be a pain in the butt. After many attempts (stubborn SOB), i found that if you take a piece of wooden dowel (about 8 or 9 mm or 5/16 inch in diameter) and drill two holes that are the diameter of your fiber through the dowel as far apart as you want your coil. I drilled them 90 degrees offset from each other but that doesn't matter. Push about 25 mm or inch through the first hole, then wind the fiber tightly around the dowel til you get to the other hole then push another 25 mm through the second hole. Place the dowel and fiber in a pan of cold water, then heat the water til just boiling, then turn off the heat. The important part is to now let the water sit til it cools. Push the straight pieces back through the hole, and voila a perfectly coiled fiber optic cable. I had previously taken the coil out of the hot water and cooled it rapidly but letting it cool slowly is the magic.
The fiber I use is from Industrial Fiber Optics, part number GH4001 1 mm fiber with PE jacket. It is $1.55 per meter. Works with both of the Inon plugs (the straight and the 90 degree) and with Inon strobes will easily trigger with the Nauticam LED trigger. If you want to get really fancy, you can get from them the 217 core stuff for $6/meter. The 613 core (what Inon/S&S and others use) is $7.50 per meter. This will trigger the S&S strobes from the LED trigger.
You can also get this from them for $25 or so. makes nicer cuts then doing it by hand.
I am pretty sure that the OP is not the owner of Current Biology so he is not asking for himself. As far as I know Current Biology is owned by the Cell group and there is likely a $5400 or so fee to get your paper published. This is not a dive magazine but rather a quite well respected science journal (Congratulations on getting published here) that happens to put pretty interesting photos on the cover. This is not the case of a dive magazine wanting free stuff and also your photo will likely not be seen by most of your friends.
I think the recommendation for either the 30 or 45 macro for super macro is probably a stretch for micro 4/3. Neither plays particularly well with add on diopters; for that the 60 macro is the best thing I think. But only $3K for camera, lenses, housing, ports, and lights is going to be very tough unless you find someone wanting to get a rid of a used system for cheap. I would also probably stay away from the Meikon type housings, not much room for growing that type of system.
There is an old saying in organic chemistry that like dissolves like. For example salt is an inorganic compound that dissolves well in water while not so much in things like olive oil. Similarly, olive oil floats on water but will dissolve very nicely in heptane or gasoline.
For o-rings you don't have to worry about dissolving them (mostly) but you need to control swelling. For example many silicone rubber o-rings use fluorosilicone grease since silicone grease will dissolve into the o-ring and swell it perhaps leading to a leak. Similarly some folks talk about using petroleum jelly (Vaseline). According to the o-ring kings (https://www.physics....ng_handbook.pdf) which comes from Harvard so it has to be right petroleum jelly is probably not so good for EPDM or Silicone but OK for nitrile and Viton.
The reason to use Tribolube 71 (for sliding o-rings) is that it will not swell any type of rubber that I know about. Similarly, Christolube is just as good as is Krytox (there are 745,000 types of Krytox, I think the scuba one is GPL 205 but others might work as well. Krytox is ungodly expensive while Tribolube and Christolube are only ridiculously expensive but you don't really need much. I store mine in contact lens cases that look like a dive mask (https://www.amazon.c...ge?ie=UTF8&th=1) and one side has lasted for at least two years.
There are lots and lots of urban legends about o-rings and o-ring material compatibilities. Look at the table in the Harvard link and you will see that many o-rings are not so good in contact with common stuff.
I am confused by the question. As I understand it (perhaps not very far) the IKE strobe has only an electrical sync cord connection. Adding the IKE fiber optic converter will allow for triggering by fiber optic but offers NO TTL (This adapter is a manual exposure (non-TTL) trigger only.) so no TTL possible. It will fire however from LED triggers assuming you can get one that fits in the housing. Hedwig's will fit and should work.
The fantasea version appears to be (40.5 x 45 x 20.5 mm) big so you can measure to see if you have that space above the hot shoe.
If you move to other strobes the cables will be the same.