Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Nikon 18mm AF-D


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 ianmarsh

ianmarsh

    Wolf Eel

  • Member
  • PipPip
  • 126 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Vernon BC, CANADA

Posted 23 July 2018 - 09:51 AM

Hello all

 

I am wondering if anyone has actual UW experience with this lens. I have owned it for years and have never taken it underwater. It generally gets mixed reviews topside.

 

I am thinking Seacam Superdome.

Any suggestions on diopters or dome extensions?

 

I have recently bought the Nikon 8-15 FE and will be taking this and the dome to Kimbe. I though this would be a great compact topside lens that could be pressed into UW service if suitable.

 

ian

 

 



#2 Walt Stearns

Walt Stearns

    Eagle Ray

  • Industry
  • PipPipPip
  • 382 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Palm Beach, Florida
  • Interests:Diving and underwater photography of course with a little rebreathers, cave diving, marine science and natural history thrown in.

Posted 24 July 2018 - 08:15 AM

Back in the day when I shot with film (Nikon F3 and F4), my three primary lens for wide angle work were my Nikon 24 f2, 18 f2.8 and 16mm fisheye. For big animals like sharks, sea turtles, etc., was the Nikon 24mm, for reef and wreck (with and without divers)and splits it was the 18mm behind a 8-inch dome port with a 20mm extension ring. It worked really back than, as I produced a lot of covers for both Skin Diver and Sport Diver magazine. Nowadays, find that that are several newer model wide angle zooms from both Nikon and Tokina that work even better optically than that lens.

#3 ianmarsh

ianmarsh

    Wolf Eel

  • Member
  • PipPip
  • 126 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Vernon BC, CANADA

Posted 24 July 2018 - 08:46 AM

Thanks Walt,

 

That is very helpful, indeed. Do you recall if you used a diopter? I'm guessing yes.

 

I am going to use it with a superdome, so hopefully it will be a little sharper at the edges. Thinking it should also be good for splits.

 

I will try it in the pool once I sort the diopter issue.

 

ian



#4 Roger-Botting

Roger-Botting

    Triggerfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 34 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 24 July 2018 - 08:49 AM

I had an earlier version of that lens. It worked fine on my FE2 in an Ikelite housing with a small dome port.
But that info is 30 years out of date.



#5 Walt Stearns

Walt Stearns

    Eagle Ray

  • Industry
  • PipPipPip
  • 382 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Palm Beach, Florida
  • Interests:Diving and underwater photography of course with a little rebreathers, cave diving, marine science and natural history thrown in.

Posted 24 July 2018 - 10:50 AM

No diopter's were used with either the 18mm or the 24mm, just simply (through a little bit of trial and error) figured out the distance the port needed to be in front of the lens. I am sure with a Seacam Supperdome little (10mm, 20mm at the most) to no extensions will be needed.

#6 ianmarsh

ianmarsh

    Wolf Eel

  • Member
  • PipPip
  • 126 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Vernon BC, CANADA

Posted 24 July 2018 - 11:13 AM

To all

 

Thanks for the insight:)

 

ian



#7 Tom_Kline

Tom_Kline

    Great White

  • Industry
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1017 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Alaska
  • Interests:fishes and invertebrates

Posted 24 July 2018 - 12:06 PM

I used this lens a while back but on the DX format. Sold it before getting an FX camera. I used it mainly with a WP and a diopter to allow closer focusing.

 

From some old (> 10 years old) Seacam data: Harald (from price list) has the 18D and SD used with no PVL whereas Stephen Frink (from his website) shows a PVL25. This may have been before the PVL20 came out. Reading this info off my old computer (not the one being used right now).

 

ps. I had this lens at the same time that I had the RS 18mm lens. Looking at both at both ends (front and back) they appeared identical to me. I was not happy about this (the RS lens) as I was expecting a relatively compact water contact optic rather than what I got, which was a dedicated 8" hemispherical port and topside lens. It was OK on film.

 

I used it for this shot:

https://www.salmonog...olt/i-mMfcgzP/A


Edited by Tom_Kline, 24 July 2018 - 12:36 PM.

Thomas C. Kline, Jr., Ph. D.
Oceanography & Limnology
Currently used housed digital cameras: Canon EOS-1Ds MkIII, EOS-1D MkIV, and EOS-1DX; and Nikon D3X. More or less retired: Canon EOS-1Ds MkII; and Nikon D1X, D2X, and D2H.

Lens focal lengths ranging from 8 to 200mm for UW use. Seacam housings and remote control gear. Seacam 60D, 150D, and 250D, Sea&Sea YS250, and Inon Z220 strobes.

http://www.salmonography.com/

 


#8 onokai

onokai

    Sting Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 248 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Arcata
  • Interests:U/W photo-Diving-Tuna fishing

Posted 01 August 2018 - 08:52 PM

I to shot that lens a lot with film (f3) as well as the 24mm. No diopters. I had custom extension rings made for each lens with my aquatic housings. I worked the  specs thru a guy at Nikon back in the day on finding the exact extension length . There where 4 of us that had all the same gear and made 4 sets of rings one for each for these lens-15mm-18mm 24mm 28mm and a 35mm. 

 

switched to Subals in the F5 days 

Those 4 divers were

Tom Campbell

Bob Vaughn 

Kelly Micheal

and myself

Mark Cortright


Edited by onokai, 01 August 2018 - 08:57 PM.

 Subal ND800- Housing
Way to many strobes to list
 subal ND800 setup with Ikelite 161 strobes
Still a film divasourus at heart in a digital world


#9 ianmarsh

ianmarsh

    Wolf Eel

  • Member
  • PipPip
  • 126 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Vernon BC, CANADA

Posted 04 August 2018 - 01:48 PM

Thanks all

 

Just got out of the pool

 

Tested with SD, +/- 20mm extension, +/- +2 diopter

 

Looks sharpest with 20mm extension and no diopter.

 

ian