Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

DIY fiber optic writeup with parts

Fiber Optic Sea & Sea DIY

  • Please log in to reply
21 replies to this topic

#1 chrisdarke

chrisdarke

    Damselfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 19 posts

Posted 30 August 2017 - 05:41 PM

Hi there!

So I have a bit of a weird situation with my current set up, in that I have an Aquatica housing with LED flash trigger, and a YS-D1, and a YS-D2. As has been documented in various forum threads, the YS-D2 is not very sensitive, and so doesn't trigger from most LED flash triggers. That means that the solution I came up with is to trigger the YS-D1, and have the output of the D1 trigger the D2. 

That means running a fiber optic from the housing to the left (D1) strobe, and another fiber optic from the left strobe ALL the way to the right (D2). This was not possible with the length of the arms and my usual fiber optic cables so I ordered a long Sea & Sea cable which cost over $80, and still was not long enough. So I am building my own.

 

For this after a few measurements I guesstimated that these parts would work:

 

25 feet of TosLink fiber optic (already tested with some Toslink to make sure it triggered): https://www.amazon.c...1?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some rubber grommet thingys that would fit snugly in the Sea & Sea FO hole: https://www.amazon.c...1?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some o-rings that would fit snugly over the grommets: https://www.amazon.c...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

So.. on to the build

 

Cut the fiber optic on a hard surface

IMG_0045.jpg

 

Measure out the length by running it along the whole setup as if its being installed

IMG_0041.jpg

 

Trim back the rubber from the outside of the fiber, exposing the still coated core

IMG_0047.jpg

 

Trim the little ridge on the rubber grommet, so that the o-ring can fit in the groove

FullSizeRender.jpg

IMG_0050.jpg

 

Place o-ring, this should now fit snugly in the FiberOptic hole

IMG_0051.jpg

IMG_0052.jpg

 

Trim the rubber on the fiber optic back to where when slide inside the grommet, it just peeks out the other end. The fit with this brand of fiber optic was nigh on perfect!

IMG_0053.jpg

IMG_0055.jpg

 

You should only need a bit of rubber cement to hold the fiber in place.. 

 

Thats pretty much it!! I now have over 2 foot of fiber optic for about $3! Pretty happy with the results. Obviously it doesn't have the coiling functionality of the branded fiber optic but I am going to be using some clips to hold it along the arms.


Edited by chrisdarke, 30 August 2017 - 05:42 PM.


#2 chrisdarke

chrisdarke

    Damselfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 19 posts

Posted 30 August 2017 - 05:44 PM

Final Product: 

 

IMG_0043.jpg



#3 trimix125

trimix125

    Eagle Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 343 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Austria

Posted 30 August 2017 - 10:17 PM

Hi,
nice done.
Have the same problem with a Hugyfot housing and D500...
Sometimes the trigger is ok, sometime not. Testet Aquatica and Turtle.
So i had the same idea:
Triggering one YS 250 pro, from there the next,....
I have longer cables, but still too short.
So i have used a piece of plastik, with a hole that fits tight enought for the plugs, and put the kables in from both sides.
Works fine, if the trigger does...
Today i will try to pimp omne of the cables.
If it works, will be documented ;-))
 

Regards,
Wolfgang



#4 Kraken de Mabini

Kraken de Mabini

    Sting Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 264 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Greater Los Angeles, California
  • Interests:UW photography, travel, carpentry, gardening, biology, medicine, physics, design & build UW custom gizmos

Posted 21 September 2017 - 09:16 AM

Excellent!  

 

Commercial fiberoptic cables, such as the Sea&Sea's are grossly overpriced and damage easily.

Now they have braided the fiberoptic cable to make them stronger, but the price gouging is at least 30 times

the true cost.  Us UW photographers are being ripped off!

 

Using eBay or Amazon fiberoptic audio cable is the solution.  

 

I particularly lke your use of the Amazon grommets, thank you for the suggestion.

 

I too have been using Toslink audio cable for my fiberoptics, since 2014, with no problems.

The cables connect my Subal ND800 to 2 Sea&Sea YS-D2 strobes.  I thread my cables through the

openings in the arms, or wrap them around.  

 

Please tell us about your other DIY solutions.  DIY is fun and pays for itself !  



#5 SMY

SMY

    Sting Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 219 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Germany
  • Interests:photography, diving, hiking in the mountains and everything with an Apple on...

Posted 14 February 2018 - 02:49 PM

Sounds great! Any idea to connect this to a Nauticam housing?

Sascha

Edited by SMY, 14 February 2018 - 03:01 PM.

Nikon D850, Nauticam NA-D850 housing, Nauticam TTL-Converter 26308, 2 x INON Z330, Nikon 8-15 Fisheye, Nikon 16-35mm, Nauticam 230mm port, Zen170mm  Port, ULCS arms with StiX floats


#6 bvanant

bvanant

    Sperm Whale

  • Team Wetpixel
  • 1911 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Los Angeles (more or less)
  • Interests:Science, photography, travel

Posted 14 February 2018 - 05:18 PM

Use these bits. http://reefphoto.com...roducts_id=3932

 

I dislike Toslink cable, just get some 1 mm end glow fiber (it plugs right into these plugs).

Bill


Bill
Canon 7d, Nauticam, Lots of glass, Olympus OMD-EM5, Nauticam, 60 macro, 45 macro, 8 mm fisheye, Inon, S&S, Athena Strobes plus lots of fiddly bits.
www.blueviews.net


#7 SMY

SMY

    Sting Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 219 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Germany
  • Interests:photography, diving, hiking in the mountains and everything with an Apple on...

Posted 14 February 2018 - 11:24 PM

Thanks Bill! This seem to work with sea G sea...,but how to use them with Nauticsm housing?

Sascha

Edited by SMY, 14 February 2018 - 11:24 PM.

Nikon D850, Nauticam NA-D850 housing, Nauticam TTL-Converter 26308, 2 x INON Z330, Nikon 8-15 Fisheye, Nikon 16-35mm, Nauticam 230mm port, Zen170mm  Port, ULCS arms with StiX floats


#8 bvanant

bvanant

    Sperm Whale

  • Team Wetpixel
  • 1911 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Los Angeles (more or less)
  • Interests:Science, photography, travel

Posted 15 February 2018 - 10:27 AM

Which housing. All of my Nauticam housings have the S&S connector

Bill


Bill
Canon 7d, Nauticam, Lots of glass, Olympus OMD-EM5, Nauticam, 60 macro, 45 macro, 8 mm fisheye, Inon, S&S, Athena Strobes plus lots of fiddly bits.
www.blueviews.net


#9 SMY

SMY

    Sting Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 219 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Germany
  • Interests:photography, diving, hiking in the mountains and everything with an Apple on...

Posted 15 February 2018 - 11:21 AM

D850....

Nikon D850, Nauticam NA-D850 housing, Nauticam TTL-Converter 26308, 2 x INON Z330, Nikon 8-15 Fisheye, Nikon 16-35mm, Nauticam 230mm port, Zen170mm  Port, ULCS arms with StiX floats


#10 bvanant

bvanant

    Sperm Whale

  • Team Wetpixel
  • 1911 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Los Angeles (more or less)
  • Interests:Science, photography, travel

Posted 15 February 2018 - 11:26 AM

Then you need the adapter from these guys

http://www.reefwreck...rs--cables.html

or the adapter from 

XIT440.

 

Cheers

Bill


Bill
Canon 7d, Nauticam, Lots of glass, Olympus OMD-EM5, Nauticam, 60 macro, 45 macro, 8 mm fisheye, Inon, S&S, Athena Strobes plus lots of fiddly bits.
www.blueviews.net


#11 SMY

SMY

    Sting Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 219 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Germany
  • Interests:photography, diving, hiking in the mountains and everything with an Apple on...

Posted 15 February 2018 - 11:53 AM

Thanks Bill!

Sascha

Nikon D850, Nauticam NA-D850 housing, Nauticam TTL-Converter 26308, 2 x INON Z330, Nikon 8-15 Fisheye, Nikon 16-35mm, Nauticam 230mm port, Zen170mm  Port, ULCS arms with StiX floats


#12 aussie_bubbles

aussie_bubbles

    Sea Nettle

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 13 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Sydney, Australia
  • Interests:Started diving in 2012 and taking photos underwater since 2014. First camera set up was a Canon G16 but recently upgraded to a Sony A6300 with a Fantasea housing.

Posted 12 March 2018 - 08:22 PM

I'm about to try this, but read somewhere that cutting fibre optic cables can be tricky and you could crush the glass - causing problems.  What did you use to cut the cable?



#13 bvanant

bvanant

    Sperm Whale

  • Team Wetpixel
  • 1911 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Los Angeles (more or less)
  • Interests:Science, photography, travel

Posted 05 October 2018 - 10:35 AM

Single edge razor blade

Bill


Bill
Canon 7d, Nauticam, Lots of glass, Olympus OMD-EM5, Nauticam, 60 macro, 45 macro, 8 mm fisheye, Inon, S&S, Athena Strobes plus lots of fiddly bits.
www.blueviews.net


#14 Undertow

Undertow

    Tiger Shark

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 527 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bermuda

Posted 06 October 2018 - 03:07 PM

Sharp wire cutters. Just flame polish the end after. Super easy. 



#15 Architeuthis

Architeuthis

    Wolf Eel

  • Member
  • PipPip
  • 150 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Austria
  • Interests:Diving / Photograpy / Video / Gardening / Cooking / Handcraft

Posted 07 October 2018 - 12:20 AM

This tool for cutting may be for perfectionists (I dont have it, but it looks nice):

https://www.unterwas...e-werkzeug.html

 

@bvanant: I guess the "end glow fiber" is this type of cable with many optical filaments inside, as opposed to the single fiber in TosLink cables? Can you post a good source where one can buy few meters at reasonable price??

 

Thanks, Wolfgang



#16 Mr. Grouper

Mr. Grouper

    Damselfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 17 posts

Posted 07 October 2018 - 08:01 AM

 I had made this DIY cable project shared in this post and it did work, but the connectors will come lose sometimes during the dive and I missed a couple of good shots here and there. Not a biggie, just annoying, but for the price most of us can live with that. (Or not). Perhaps I failed to built it correctly.

 

 Fiber Optic products Inc.  in U.S.A. They sell different types of fiber optic cables. The End Glow solid core seems to be a better option than the multiple strands. I have had used the 7 mm solid core for DIY snoot, any sharp blade can be use to cut it.. I used an Exacto knife with out problems. They sell different diameters, but if you are planing to coil the cable better to use  smaller diameter. Different diameter of side glow fiber optic cable can be purchased on Amazon or E-Bay sites. They sell coils of different lengths and diameters for cheap. This side glow can be tightly wrapped with tape and it will do the trick as well. It will work with out wrapping it but the entire cable will be illuminated every time the flash fires. 

 Cheers!



#17 temas

temas

    Brine Shrimp

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 1 posts

Posted 05 November 2018 - 05:53 AM

 Different diameter of side glow fiber optic cable can be purchased on Amazon or E-Bay sites. They sell coils of different lengths and diameters for cheap. This side glow can be tightly wrapped with tape and it will do the trick as well. It will work with out wrapping it but the entire cable will be illuminated every time the flash fires. 

 Cheers!

 

Can you please post some links on Amazon or Ebay? I tried to find but stumbled on a confusing variety of products been sold. Thx.



#18 johnohuk

johnohuk

    Clownfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 29 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 05 November 2018 - 03:28 PM

This thread helped me a lot when creating cables for an Oly PT-EP08 housing & Inon strobes, I purchased the following:

 

sourcingmap® 50Pcs 7mm x 1mm Nitrile Rubber O Ring FKM Heat Resistant Sealing Grommets Green

 

https://www.amazon.c...e?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

2.0mm Diameter Solid Core End Glow Fibre optic Cable

 

https://www.ebay.co....7UAAOSwu4BVv6nT

 

20pcs 27mmx7mmx4mm Micro Strain Relief Cord Boot Protector

 

https://www.amazon.c...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I found that for the Oly housing you need to cut the length of the boot protectors in half approx... the rubber o ring was not required as the boot protector squeezes into the Oly enclosure quite tightly.

 

The fibre optic cable is quite loose inside the protector so, to get round this, I used a small blob of polymorph to hold it all in place. I just cut the fibre optics with a carpet cutter with a new blade.

 

They have survived 30+ dives fine. 

 

Looks like this:

 

https://imgur.com/9quYUUN

 

For the other end I was a little stuck trying to find the inon plugs, so made some out of 1/4" locline, polymorph and bungy, use a soldering iron to create the holes in the locline, like this:

 

https://imgur.com/zOmuliU


Edited by johnohuk, 05 November 2018 - 03:31 PM.


#19 bvanant

bvanant

    Sperm Whale

  • Team Wetpixel
  • 1911 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Los Angeles (more or less)
  • Interests:Science, photography, travel

Posted 06 November 2018 - 10:01 AM

The fiber I use is from Industrial Fiber Optics, part number GH4001 1 mm fiber with PE jacket. It is $1.55 per meter. Works with both of the Inon plugs (the straight and the 90 degree) and with Inon strobes will easily trigger with the Nauticam LED trigger.  If you want to get really fancy, you can get from them the 217 core stuff for $6/meter. The 613 core (what Inon/S&S and others use) is $7.50 per meter. This will trigger the S&S strobes from the LED trigger. 

 

You can also get fc1.jpgthis from them for $25 or so. makes nicer cuts then doing it by hand.

BVA


Bill
Canon 7d, Nauticam, Lots of glass, Olympus OMD-EM5, Nauticam, 60 macro, 45 macro, 8 mm fisheye, Inon, S&S, Athena Strobes plus lots of fiddly bits.
www.blueviews.net


#20 bvanant

bvanant

    Sperm Whale

  • Team Wetpixel
  • 1911 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Los Angeles (more or less)
  • Interests:Science, photography, travel

Posted 10 November 2018 - 05:03 PM

Coiling of fiber cables can be a pain in the butt. After many attempts (stubborn SOB), i found that if you take a piece of wooden dowel (about 8 or 9 mm or 5/16 inch in diameter) and drill two holes that are the diameter of your fiber through the dowel as far apart as you want your coil. I drilled them 90 degrees offset from each other but that doesn't matter.  Push about 25 mm or inch through the first hole, then wind the fiber tightly around the dowel til you get to the other hole then push another 25 mm through the second hole.  Place the dowel and fiber in a pan of cold water, then heat the water til just boiling, then turn off the heat. The important part is to now let the water sit til it cools.  Push the straight pieces back through the hole, and voila a perfectly coiled fiber optic cable. I had previously taken the coil out of the hot water and cooled it rapidly but letting it cool slowly is the magic.

 

Cheers and enjoy

 

Bill


Bill
Canon 7d, Nauticam, Lots of glass, Olympus OMD-EM5, Nauticam, 60 macro, 45 macro, 8 mm fisheye, Inon, S&S, Athena Strobes plus lots of fiddly bits.
www.blueviews.net






Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Fiber Optic, Sea & Sea, DIY