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Member Since 28 Aug 2005
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 11:23 PM

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In Topic: Switching to Olympus - a few specific questions

23 October 2017 - 06:55 PM

Thanks again, guys - some really useful info there, especially re the fit of the 30mm lens.   I am not wedded tot he Oly 30mm, and can happily get the Panasonic, which appears to be a better fit.


@ChrisRoss - thanks for those links.  Gonna go read them now.


@Griff - thanks for that explanation about the trigger.  I am a fairly low-volume shooter, so i should be able to get a single day's use out of the battery.    Am also going to look into after-market batteries (Wasabi and others usually make options with better-capacity batteries and i have one for my Fuji as well)

In Topic: Switching to Olympus - a few specific questions

22 October 2017 - 01:46 AM

I am shooting the em-1-II and have shot the em-1 and the em-5.  I am shooting with the Inon 45 finder so I suspect that your nauticam dealers were trying to sell you the nauticam finder. I have the Nauticam 45 as well (often take two housings along). In fact you can buy the Inon 45 finder for Nauticam housings from Divervision for $500.



Cheers Bill


A-Ha!!!  So I did correctly remember reading that the Inon finder fits the Nauticam.      I need to do some digging to figure out whether this is the same 45 degree finder as used on DSLR cases, but with a different mounting kit, or whether it is a different unit (sized differently for ILC housings?).


Thanks for that.

In Topic: Switching to Olympus - a few specific questions

22 October 2017 - 01:42 AM

Why dont you look at a Canon 200D in an Ikelite housing? Very small and compact and can use your existing Tokina and Canon macro lens or get the very good Canon 60mm macro.
I used to use a Canon 700D in a Nauticam but switched to an Olympus EM1 and a EM10 for my wife. Both are great and controls underwater are nearly the same but the EM1 has a better trigger. Never used a finder and always use the EVF and again the bigger EVF in the EM1 has the advantage. The Oly 60mm can be used on its own or with a macro diopter for even greater super macro. I have the Nauticam CMC and while tricky to use gives you 2:1 magnification. You cant use the CMC with the 30mm macro lenses as they are too far from the port glass. The 60mm is made for the Macro 60 port.
I also have the Oly 8mm FE and the Pany 7-14 behind the Nauticam acrylic ports but the Oly 8mm is the one Id recommend.
So why do I suggest the 200D ikelite combo? The main drawbacks of the Olympus are battery life, about 2.5 dives on a 3 dive boat trip so you end up taking less pictures to conserve battery or run the risk of opening the housing and swapping the battery. The EM1 mk2 has much better battery life and so does the Pany GH4 or GH5.
Also the Oly EM1 in Nauticam with macro lens and port is only 1.5kg lighter than the 700D in Nauticam with lens and port (but also less bulky). But the strobes, arms, focus lights, GoPro etc etc weigh the same so you end up with a 5 to 6kg system as opposed to a 6.5 to 7.5kg system.
The Canon 200D Ikelite is the same size and weight as their Olympus and Panasonic housings but you dont have to buy new lenses. Hope this helps.


Thanks for that idea and also appreciate your point of view, as someone who shoots with DSLRs and ILCs (eg, the battery life issues - hadnt considered that the battery would run out so quickly!). 


I have to admit, I never looked at the Rebel series of Canon cameras because they dont have 2 separate control dials for changing the 2 exposure  parameters.   You have to push a button and then turn the dial - and I cannot deal with that.   I should look at the newer bodies and see if they have remedied this - if they have, this could be the way to go.  


That said, as far as housings go, I dont plan to ever get Ikelite.  I have seen too many divers at our dive shop have issues with them (servicing them in this part of the world isnt easy) and more importantly, those housings are ergonomic disasters.    Clunky and the buttons/levers dont fall where they should.     But if there is a metal, ergonomic housing for it, that might be an option especially if the control dial issues are fixed.


A couple of clarifications, if i may:


- When you say "better trigger on the OM1", what do you mean?  Faster response time to take the shoot?  Or faster AF?


- Re the CMC:   I was planning to use the Macro Port 45, with a spacer, and not the Macro Port 65.   Would this let me use wet lenses with the 30mm?   Because that would make it a truly versatile lens.  I have a 2:1 Macromater wet lens permanently attached to my Aquatica macro port (and i mean it - i dont think i'd be able to release the screw now even if i wanted to :)) and it is very handy combo to pair with the 50.  Something similar with the 30 would be nice as well.

In Topic: Switching to Olympus - a few specific questions

22 October 2017 - 01:30 AM

vkalia better the em5 mk1 than the em10 mk1..... the em5 have a tropicalized body and a better stabilizer 5axis vs 3 axis and maximum sync speed is 1/250 vs 1/200........ for the same  stabilizer and sync speed you need the em10 mk2... ;-)


ps:i do some shot with the cheap 12-32 Panasonic lens but behind the nauticam 3.5 semi dome port... not bad....


Sorry, i should have been clear- i will be getting the most recent version of either the 5 or 10 series.   So EM10 Mk3  or maybe wait for the EM5 Mk3 early next year.

In Topic: Switching to Olympus - a few specific questions

21 October 2017 - 09:30 AM

Thank you everyone for the information.


@wolfgang, @troprobo, @Architeuthis - thanks for the suggestion of the 12-40/50.      That's actually a pretty good idea as well, and you are right, that focal length is probably a little more useful for fish portraits than a 9-18 I'd probably go for the 12-50 lens as it is cheaper and i will be using it stopped down to f8 anyway.     And if i go this route, a 60mm macro probably makes most sense as well.    My only concern  here is that 24mm plus a flat port isnt much of a wide angle at all - if there was a 9/10m to 24/25mm, that would be oh-so-epic.   But in the grand scheme of things, this isnt such a big issue as the generalist lens wont get as much use.


@ChrisRoss - thanks for that info re the practical side of shooting with the 60mm.   With my Canon 100mm, i have an Aquatica focus ring on it and so use MF mostly.  Thanks to USM, i can always go to AF if need be but i have rarely needed to.   The Sigma 50 i use hunts worse like a starving lion but does give 1:1 so i put up with it - but i wont be upset to see its back.


Re camera - I did consider the EM1 but honestly, would prefer a cheaper body.  I cut my teeth shooting wildlife with 9AF points, so I dont really need a lot of technology to help me get the shots.  I  bought a 1DMk2 for wildlife when it came out, and now shoot with a 80D - so I generally prefer not to spend a lot on camera bodies, other than for a sensible interface.   That philosophy sort of carries over to underwater as well.   In fact, I am hoping that you guys would tell me that the EM10 also allows the same degree of manual controls  :) 


Also:  i did read on Zen's website about the Mk1 vs Mk2 170 port, but i figured the compatibility differences was just a little carelessnes on their part.  I didnt realize that same WA port that fits the FE wont fit any of the rectilinear WAs. 


What I am leaning towards right now is:

- 8mm, 4.33" FE port, 60mm, 30mm, 12-50 and the macro port to start with

If the 12-50 proves to be insufficient, i can add a 9-18 and the 170 Mk2 port for the generalist use case.   However, since i have shot exclusively with a Tokina 10-17FE and a 50 or 100mm macro, I dont think i will need this last combo.


As for finders - the Inon cant be installed on the Nauticam (I remember reading somewhere that it could, but 2 separate Nauticam dealers have told me it cannot), so i will have to pony over the $1000 for that.    Maybe i will just shoot with the LCD first for a bit and see how i like it.


Much obliged for all the info, gents.