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Member Since 19 Jun 2004
Offline Last Active Today, 11:51 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Photography tips

Today, 03:01 AM

Hi Chloe


Hard to know where to start answering your question!


If you want to combine learning more about photography with UW photography, it may well be worth getting a copy of Martin Edge's book, "The Underwater Photographer" (ISBN978-0-240-52164-0). At a modest 516 pages it takes you right through composition, camera settings, lighting - and the variations that UW needs. Even though it is, clearly, aimed at UW photographers, it does offer a very good guide to the basics of photography. I don't know if it's available in French but that might not matter to you.


I'd suggest the basics are understanding the effects and meaning of apertures, shutter speeds and ISO; then composition and how one impacts on the other; then lighting. There may be courses on offer in your community that could help you with these basic, but key, concepts.


But, as I say, if you can take a look at Martin Edge's book, I think that'd give you a great start.

In Topic: Meikon a7RII external battery box

Yesterday, 08:57 PM

Nice work indeed!

In Topic: Strobe maintenance

Yesterday, 10:18 AM

Thanks, Tim. I think the metals have reacted. But I'll give these other methods a try.





Argh! That is a pain. I had that once with the threads of a TTL convertor and a sync cable. I could not separate them using "gentle" means. In the end I had to use a pair of pliers and force them apart - damaging one set of threads which I had to replace.


It may be "galvanic" action when two different metals form a unintended bond. A quick google search came up with this solution which sounds interesting....




Good luck with it. If you find a solution, could you let  us know? I'm sure others would be interested.


There is some bright blue gunk you can buy which you can use to coat the threads which seems to stop galvanic action happening on typical u/w gear. I used it after my problem - it's called Duralac.


I think you can also fit a piece of zinc somewhere on your housing which can prevent the problem too - but others might correct me on that. 


If you do a search on Wetpixel for Galvanic Action you'll find various posts about it.

In Topic: Strobe maintenance

Yesterday, 07:49 AM



Nothing more than the usual rinse in fresh water for the strobes - obviously with all the covers/o-rings etc in place. And then leave them to dry. If you are storing them for a longish time before the next dive it might be worth taking the o-rings off the battery cover and storing them.


Same with any connectors.


You might try soaking metals that are stuck together in WD40. Is it salt that has locked them up? Or rust? Or the metals reacting together?


If rust, the WD40 might do the trick. Salt can sometimes be shifted with white vinegar - again soaked overnight. If metals reacting.... tricky and I'll leave that to someone else!


Best wishes

In Topic: Strobe arms

20 September 2018 - 09:21 PM

Hey Paul

This often comes up and it'd be worth doing a search of the Wetpixel forums.

I think you'll find the general view is that you might as well buy arms and clamps once - and buy well. They are one of the few bits of kit that can move relatively seamlessly from system to system.

As an example, Ive had my ULCS arms, clamps and bits and bobs since around 1998 and they're still in perfect condition after many hundreds of dives. And they've moved across 6 housings in that time. You'll find many people on WP saying a similar thing.

Get a quality brand and you should be good for many years and maybe even get some return if/when you finally sell.

On arm sizes, an 8" plus a 5" arm for each strobe is a fairly popular combination. This gives flexibility in terms of strobe positioning and is good for macro, WA and CFWA.

You then need clamps to join the arms; to join the arms to the strobes; and the arms to the housing. So 3 clamps for each strobe. Then add a fitting to the strobe itself to take the clamp; and a fitting on the housing.

Hope this helps for starters.