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Member Since 05 Jan 2008
Offline Last Active Dec 05 2018 11:58 PM

#399983 Q about Nauticam housing for Oly EM10 mk3

Posted by tursiops on 10 October 2018 - 01:05 PM

Hi guys -
Can someone let me know the following about the :
- Is it possible to use back button AF on the Nauticam housing for this camera, and if so, is the button at an ergonomically sensible location?
- Does the Nauticam housing allow direct movement of the AF point (IE, without needing to press any button)
- Any unexpected gotchas or other issues with usability as far as this housing goes?
Sefnt from my BBF100-6 using Tapatalk

I have the Mk1. I assume they are similar.
Yes, the thumb button normally to start video can be reprogrammed to be focus. Very conveniently located. Moving the AF point involves several button pushes.

#399881 Lighting to shoot Icebergs

Posted by tursiops on 06 October 2018 - 03:54 PM

Your strobe won't reach very far...10 feet would be a long distance. This means a very wide-angle lens/dome (as you have) so you can get close and still get subject matter in the frame. I'm not sure I'd even worry with the strobe, but would try just ambient light...with good clear water it might be enough. The brightness above suface will be a problem, so sun angle and shadows will help. ideally, backlit for the above surface part, and ambient light below. Practice finding he exposure that does not burn out any sun-illuminated part, but still allows some non-pure black below. If you could find a stable platform, HDR would help. Low ISOs to try and get max exposure range.


All those scenes you see in caves are not lit with a strobe on the camera, but rather with many strobes placed around the cave, so each one is close to what it is illuminating. Covering a large area with light is challenging. I would personally not even try it with an iceberg. I've dived in Antartica, next to an iceberg, and the u/w formations were wonderful, but they wee shot on their own, not as part of an over/under.


Good luck.

#399462 Help to ID a goby?

Posted by tursiops on 18 September 2018 - 03:39 PM

I'd say blenny rather than goby. There are a number of them with red spots on a brown body.....but more of the animal would be needed to tell them apart. Take a look at Cirripectes springeri and C. variolosus and C. stigmaticus, for example.

#399461 Professional Training in Light Room/Photoshop ?

Posted by tursiops on 18 September 2018 - 02:05 PM

Backscatter and Reef Photo both offer workshops specifically on Lightroom for u/w photos.

#398083 "Burping" wet lenses specifically WWL-1?

Posted by tursiops on 02 August 2018 - 02:12 PM

I've read a few posts on this forum about this; however I did my first photos with my rx100m2 in nauticam housing and had on the inon lens with dome and did not burp my lens and fortunately did not get any rings or air pockets in my photos.
i just recently upgraded to a gh5 and was planning on getting the WWL-1 lens --- I know this thing is pretty massive and heavy underwater and I've read the floating collar can block the latch for the bayonet mount--- do people actually remove this lens and put it back on when they are in the water-- has anyone dropped it and lost it in la la land? lol just curious what people do as i was unaware I had to do this until reading/watching more blogs/posts

I've never found any need to burp the WWL-1 bayonet mount, it seems to "self-burp" quite well. However, I do take itone and off U/W a lot, because sometimes I'g using it and sometimes I'm not, and I also carry a CMC-1 to put on. My standard configuration has the CMC and the WWL on docks on my arms, and then I pick and choose during the dive. There is a vailable a little t-shaped arm to put on the bayonet release so you can easily get at it with the flotation collar on the WWL-1.

#397690 Olympus TG-5 Fishing for answers with shutter dilemma

Posted by tursiops on 23 July 2018 - 12:29 PM

This is a known problem with the TG's and moving objects, especially when trying to use a strobe. The camera tries to expose for the ambient light, so the shutter speed will nearly always be slow underwater except near the surface at midday in tropical water.

Tricks people try:

** Use EV compensation of up to 2 stops, that is, force the picture to be dark, then have the flash do the illumination.

** Use A mode and force the aperture wide open.'

** Higher ISO.

** Some combination of all the above. Time to play...

** Sports Mode. here is what one fellow said on another forum:

Sports mode will attempt to use 1/500 or faster depending on available light. As light drops, I believe it will increase ISO up a max of 1600. But, if it can't maintain 1/500, it will naturally start using lower shutter speeds. Flash may help freeze motion due to its short output duration. Yet, the shutter speed will still be slow and the flash has limited range.

If you have pushed the ISO up to 1600 and don't have a fast enough shutter speed, you don't have enough light for this camera to produce what I'd consider a clean image. The best you can do to avoid zooming and take advantage of the relatively fast f/2 lens.

Good luck!

#396998 Oly TG-5 Package Recommendations

Posted by tursiops on 03 July 2018 - 01:09 PM

The Olympus TG-5 in the Olympus housing is a awesome bargain, and a lot to learn if your spouse has not done much U.W photography. Some find the lack of manual settings a downer. Start adding a Nauticam housing and a wet WA lens, and it become less of a bargain and a LOT more to learn. 


My wife had an old Canon S110 in a Nauticam housing that she loved, but the flash stopped working, so she sent it in to Canon for a repair. They said they could not repair it so sent her a G7X Mark II as a replacement. Of course, that meant a different Nauticam housing, which we found used along with a dome port. She is a fairly accomplished photographer, but not a techie nerd, and the combined learning curve of the G7XII plus the new housing hit her limit. She took the dome on a single dive, then set it aside and hasn't touched it since.


i guess what I'm saying is (a) the TG-5 is great but limited, and too much camera/stuff can be inhibiting.

#396683 Need ID help

Posted by tursiops on 22 June 2018 - 01:11 PM

Could be anything.....a picture would help!

#394703 sharpnose puffer

Posted by tursiops on 24 April 2018 - 11:23 AM

i cropped it slightly, to move the little guy's eye away from the center of the photo.



#394056 Best backpaak or hard case suggestions

Posted by tursiops on 03 April 2018 - 04:38 PM

2 x sea and sea ys-d1 strobes

Nauticam housing with pro kit (handles) for a panasonic (compact) Lumix LX10
Nauticam wise lens IN CASE
Nauticam floatation ring for lens

I assume you mean the WWL-1 lens.

If you take out the molded foam from that case, the lens will fit inside already in its flotation collar, so you can leave the collar on and not have to keep mounting/unmounting it.

#393759 DIY Underwater Video Tripod

Posted by tursiops on 25 March 2018 - 05:50 AM

Cute bipod, not tripod.

#393687 What's wrong with my settings ? (Canon g7x mark II and Inon s2000)

Posted by tursiops on 22 March 2018 - 03:56 PM

Is the magnet perhaps removed from the s2000? You want the magnet switch installed, because the G7X II has no preflash.


"Basically, if your camera flash outputs a preflash, the  magnetic switch should be REMOVED. If your camera flash does not output a pre-flash, the magnetic switch should be INSTALLED.

Preflash – Magnet Switch Removed.

No Preflash – Magnet Switch Installed."

#392557 Wetpixel strobe review

Posted by tursiops on 20 February 2018 - 03:51 PM


From a purist point of view, f-stop does have units.  As an example, mm focal length/mm effective aperture diameter.  Since the 2 lengths are referring to different parameters, they do not cancel.  While I realize that ignoring the units greatly simplifies communications, as a chemist, I find that many professionals can't solve problems by simple unit conversions because they think things like vapor/liquid distribution constants (concentration vapor/concentration liquid) also have no units.  :)

LOL. I guess this is the difference between mathematics and chemistry. 

#392550 Wetpixel strobe review

Posted by tursiops on 20 February 2018 - 11:15 AM

and more:

The guide number has a unit of measurement: for distance. Feet or meter. Manufacturers do not even say it, but it's a mistake because it's not 33 feet or 33 meter. The guide numbers of the flashes in the article are given in feet.



Let me say this a little differently and in more detail, because I'm sure many people are confused about it.


The Guide Number (GN) is what you divide by the distance-to-subject to get an f-stop. The distance to subject can be in feet or meters. So, if you are 10 ft away with a GN of 33, you should use f/3.3. But, if you are a meters person, like most of the world (!), the GN should be given as 10, so when you divide by 3m (i.e, 10 ft) you still get an f-stop of 3.3.


Because f-stops are a ratio of lens focal length to lens opening, the f-stop has no units, it is a pure ratio of two lengths. So when you multiply distance x f-stop = GN, you still have units of distance, be they ft or meters. This means the GN MUST HAVE ITS UNITS ATTACHED -- feet or meters -- or it is incorrect and potentially will give you greatly underexposed pictures. .


Using the example of GN33 and assuming it works for meters, and you are 3m away, you will use f/11. But the correct f-stop is 3.3, because the GN is in feet. So you are underexposing by a factor of over eleven (11/3.3 squared).....good luck. 

#392470 How do you shoot a black hole?

Posted by tursiops on 18 February 2018 - 07:49 AM

Shoot from a lower angle...eliminate as much of the light-colored background as possible. Zoom in, eliminate as much of the light-colored background as possible. Use just enough light to keep the light-colored background from blowing out; the fish will be underexposed, but it is easier to bring up the underexposure in post-processing than to tone down a blown-out background.Light low and from the side, not the top, so you see both texture and can "skim" the light over the sand. Pray.