Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Controlling Z240


  • Please log in to reply
10 replies to this topic

#1 Timz

Timz

    Moray Eel

  • Member
  • PipPip
  • 97 posts

Posted 29 November 2016 - 09:12 AM

Hi everyone.

I just got myself an INON Z240 instead of the S2000 after considering the need of future upgrade when I shoot wide angle.

I've been playing with the strobe in my room and here's what I found.

6291b1537261235e2fcb4cbf279f8fcf.jpg

Camera on manual exposure with the following settings.
•Shutter = 1/250s
•Aperture = f14
•Iso = 100

S-TTL Mode (Magnet switch depressed)
-Right Dial at position 9 o'clock brightest. but by very little compared to position 12 0'clock(B) which only noticeable on the histogram.
-After rotating Clockwise pass 12oc, the under expose seems more obvious after each 3 clicks.
-Darkest at position 8 oc.

Manual Mode (Magnet switch depressed + camera flash set to manual 1/64)
-Similar result throughout the Right dial rotation

Manual Mode (Magnet switch pressed + camera flash set to manual 1/64)
-Right Dial at 9 oc position, slightly underexposed(darkest)
-Becoming brighter as I turn the dial clockwise and becoming more and more overexposed.
-Brightest at position 8 oc.

Manual Mode(Magnet switch pressed + Camera flash set to fill in)
-Right dial at 9 oc position, it's slightly underexposed(darkest)
-Become brighter as I turn the dial clockwise. I didn't realize as much overexposed as the M mode + 1/64 Flash + magnet pressed)
- position 7 and 8 is complete darkness. I think the strobe firing and the shutter actuation did not match.

Manual mode (Magnet switch depressed + camera flash set to fill in)
-Right dial position set to 9 oc position. Image is underexposed.
-Becoming brighter as I turn the dial clockwise and becoming more and more overexposed.
-Brightest at position 8 oc

Can anyone explain to me how the INON strobes should be operated in S-TTL mode and Manual mode??


I found the dial label is kind of confusing and the operating mannual further confuses me.

*BTW, Having the Camera flash compensation set to -2 in fill in and strobe dial set to +2 S-TTL didn't work.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

#2 errbrr

errbrr

    Eagle Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 361 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Melbourne, Australia

Posted 29 November 2016 - 02:46 PM

I don't know about the S-TTL stuff as I don't use it, but I consider this to be correct for manual operation:

 

Manual Mode (Magnet switch pressed + camera flash set to manual 1/64) 
-Right Dial at 9 oc position, slightly underexposed(darkest)
-Becoming brighter as I turn the dial clockwise and becoming more and more overexposed.
-Brightest at position 8 oc.

 

The setting on your camera flash shouldn't matter, as long as it isn't pre-flashing (check your manual to ensure the camera isn't attempting to eTTL it). But it seems like you are achieving the expected result with the brightest position at 8 o'clock or the "set it to 11" marking on the strobe. It's also worth noting that 11 won't give you a full dump of the strobe - you need to turn it to Full to get this. You can test it by watching how long the red light takes to come back on after flashing. It's slightly longer for a full dump vs a manual-set-to-11.

 

If you leave the magnet switch out/unpressed then the strobe will be pre-flashing. If the camera is set to flash manually and therefore the shutter is capturing the pre-flash, you will get the same dim flash appearing in all pictures regardless of settings.



#3 hellhole

hellhole

    Wolf Eel

  • Member
  • PipPip
  • 194 posts

Posted 29 November 2016 - 06:00 PM

The manual does a decent job explaining.
Here goes mine.
Sttl. Looking at the yellow lines on the dial follow the plus and minus signs for more light or less light. Turn to the right for less light.. Turn to the left for more light.

Manual.
See the M-6 and - 0.5?
It means M (manual) - 6 stops and - 0.5 stop. Here is how I explain it. Hope u can understand. If we say FULL strobe power is 0. Then - 0.5 is closest to 0 and - 6 is further away then 0. Hence - 0.5 is the brightest light u can get out of manual strobe mode and - 6 is the smallest light u can get out of manual strobe mode. Now. If u compare to how Sttl works... U would see that the are turning in different direction to turn power up or down...

Hope this helps...

#4 hellhole

hellhole

    Wolf Eel

  • Member
  • PipPip
  • 194 posts

Posted 29 November 2016 - 08:09 PM

The post on scuba board is pretty good as well

#5 Timz

Timz

    Moray Eel

  • Member
  • PipPip
  • 97 posts

Posted 29 November 2016 - 10:39 PM

Thanks... I'll try to read the manual again and try to make some sense out of it.

 



#6 Gudge

Gudge

    Tiger Shark

  • Team Wetpixel
  • 579 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Pottsville, NSW Australia

Posted 29 November 2016 - 11:00 PM

Here's a simplified guide to Inon strobe settings:

 

http://reefphoto.com/kb.php?id=7


Canon 7D MkII, Nauticam NA-7DMKII housing, 2 x Inon Z240, 2 x Ikelite DS160, Tokina 10-17, Canon 60 & 100 macro, Sigma 150 macro, Kenko 1.X Teleconverters.

 

UW Photo Courses


#7 Timz

Timz

    Moray Eel

  • Member
  • PipPip
  • 97 posts

Posted 30 November 2016 - 09:26 AM

Here's a simplified guide to Inon strobe settings:
 
http://reefphoto.com/kb.php?id=7

Thanks... I've read it...

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

#8 Tita

Tita

    Sea Nettle

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 10 posts
  • Gender:Female

Posted 27 April 2017 - 05:43 PM

Hi, just bought this strobe. I'm wondering about the filter for the focus light. There is a couple of red stickers and the removable filters came with it. 

Question: If I use the stickers over the focus light, will those 'permanently' cover the focus light until the sticker glue comes off?

Thanks.

 



#9 hellhole

hellhole

    Wolf Eel

  • Member
  • PipPip
  • 194 posts

Posted 27 April 2017 - 09:01 PM

Yes. If u are not using the screw on filters. Then u use the red stickers on the focus light.

If u use the screw on filters.. Then u can use the red or white plastic screw buttons on the screw on filters

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Edited by hellhole, 27 April 2017 - 09:03 PM.


#10 diggy

diggy

    Manta Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 467 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mumbai, India
  • Interests:U/W Photography

Posted 27 April 2017 - 09:51 PM

Dont use STTL but its very simple actually. No's 2, 4, 5.6, 8 and 11 being aperture then 2 is the widest opening and allows more light into camera so strobe will be at minimum power. As you increase the aperture values from4-5.6-8-11 11 being smaller opening and allowing lesser light into camera the flash will throw out more light to compensate. 

 

Hope this helps


SERENE I FOLD MY HANDS AND WAIT,    FOR WHAT IS MINE WILL KNOW MY FACE

Diggy          http://www.scubadiggy.com/

Canon7D, Nauticam housing, mini and large dome, canon 100mm, canon 60mm, 10-17 tokina, macro ports, extensions, two inon Z240, Nauticam SMC converter, +3, +5 diopters. Two Sola 2000, One Sola 1200, Go Pro hero 3 Black 


#11 Tita

Tita

    Sea Nettle

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 10 posts
  • Gender:Female

Posted 28 April 2017 - 04:27 PM

Yes. If u are not using the screw on filters. Then u use the red stickers on the focus light.

If u use the screw on filters.. Then u can use the red or white plastic screw buttons on the screw on filters

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

Thank you very much for replying to my question.