Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Is TTL possible with Panasonic LX100 and Nauticam housing?


  • Please log in to reply
7 replies to this topic

#1 traveltodive

traveltodive

    Hermit Crab

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 3 posts

Posted 25 July 2015 - 06:45 PM

I have Sea and Sea YS-01 strobes, that connect with fibre optic cables, but I understand there is supposed to be a combination of settings that allows for TTL functionality.  Has anyone figured this out?



#2 ChrigelKarrer

ChrigelKarrer

    Great Hammerhead

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 826 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Playa Herradura-Costa Rica and Sardinia-Italy

Posted 26 July 2015 - 10:17 AM

I use 2 INON Z-240 with my LX100 in a Nauticam housing and they work great in sTTL with fiberoptic cable.

To be honest, i have no idea how the S+S work and what setting must be set to make it work.

Chris


Nikon D800 + Sigma 15mm + Nikon 105mm Micro VR + Hugyfot Housing + 3 Inon Z-240 strobes + 2x2 8'' ULCS arms - Panasonic LX100 + Nauticam Housing + SubSea +10 diopter
Nikon D90 + Ikelite housing + Ikelite DS125 strobe (for sale) - Nikon D7000 + Hugyfot housing (for sale) 
Canon G1X + Canon OEM housing (sold) - Canon G12 + Patima aluminium housing  (for sale) - - Fuji E900 + Ikelite housing (for sale)
Visit My Costa Rica Website - Visit My Italy Website


#3 traveltodive

traveltodive

    Hermit Crab

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 3 posts

Posted 26 July 2015 - 10:55 AM

Thanks - what flash setting do you have your camera on? 



#4 Interceptor121

Interceptor121

    Sperm Whale

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1820 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Weybridge, UK

Posted 27 July 2015 - 11:21 AM

Sea and Sea publishes a compatibility chart

 

http://www.seaandsea...itychart/a.html

 

I had my fair bit of problems with my YS-01 and the Panasonic LX7 in TTL in fact it overexposed all my images and ended up with crappy images from Lembeh, videos were much better

 

I got rid of the strobe since and switched to Inon that support even multiple pre-flash


Check my video, pictures and blog

YouTube Channel

Flickr Sets

Blog


#5 ChrigelKarrer

ChrigelKarrer

    Great Hammerhead

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 826 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Playa Herradura-Costa Rica and Sardinia-Italy

Posted 28 July 2015 - 07:28 AM

I use no particular settings:
red-eye control: OFF

TTL: ON

 

The magic of INON strobes is that they work with virtually every camera on the market!

 

Chris


Nikon D800 + Sigma 15mm + Nikon 105mm Micro VR + Hugyfot Housing + 3 Inon Z-240 strobes + 2x2 8'' ULCS arms - Panasonic LX100 + Nauticam Housing + SubSea +10 diopter
Nikon D90 + Ikelite housing + Ikelite DS125 strobe (for sale) - Nikon D7000 + Hugyfot housing (for sale) 
Canon G1X + Canon OEM housing (sold) - Canon G12 + Patima aluminium housing  (for sale) - - Fuji E900 + Ikelite housing (for sale)
Visit My Costa Rica Website - Visit My Italy Website


#6 Basil

Basil

    Triggerfish

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 45 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 24 August 2015 - 08:00 PM

To answer the question, YES you can do TTL with a Sea & Sea strobe, and the LX100 in a Nauticam housing.

 

I screwed this up for several days, before I finally started to get it right (with the help of a more skilled photographer friend on my last dive trip).  So here is how I got nice results:

I have a single Sea & Sea YS-D1 strobe, connected to my LX100 camera flash by fiber optic cable.  I have the Nauticam housing.  The YS-01 is the previous Sea & Sea strobe model, it probably is not that different from the YS-D1.

 

I made sure to turn the pre-flash OFF on the camera (the AF assist lamp - page 3 of the custom menu (the one with the wrench and the letter C next to it)).  What I was told is that it is difficult to get strobes to work (at least with a fiber optic connection) when your camera is doing a pre-flash.  That makes sense to me, since the camera & it's flash are actually blocked by the housing, and don't actually illuminate the subject.  I also made sure the red eye removal is OFF (in page 5 of the camera menu)

 

I then I set my strobe to TTL, and my White Balance on Auto White Balance (AWB) (since you have a lot of light).  It worked really well.  Some shots were a touch overexposed, but I shot in raw, and it was very easy to dial that back a bit in post.  

 

Alternatively, you can try the strobe in manual mode, but use the single lightening bolt setting on the strobe, NOT the double lightening bolt setting (I assume the YS-01 has a similar setting to the YS-D1).  That is where I screwed up for 2 days -- I was using the double lightening bolt setting -- which means the strobe is expecting a preflash (focus light) from the camera, followed by an actual flash.  The strobes mirrors this, by sending out its own pre-flash, followed by the strobe's main big bright flash.  However, my camera was not firing a preflash at all, just firing off the main flash, but I had effectively set my strobe to only be firing a teeny tiny preflash, which just illuminates a small circle with very weak light (as opposed to a big strobe flash), and then the strobe is waiting for a 2nd pulse of light from my camera's flash, which then never comes.  The end result was that my pictures were WAY WAY underexposed, and I was...confused.  Once I figured out the strobe problem (with my friend's invaluable help) I just went with using the strobe on TTL, and it made a HUGE difference.  (It makes me want to go on another dive trip, just to play more with my strobe!)

One other thing to note -- the LX100 has a leaf shutter (several higher end compact cameras have this feature, as do medium format camera/lenses -- which cost thousands of dollars).  As best as I understand it, basically the shutter is in the lens, not on the focal plane with the sensor.  The benefit of this, is that you effectively have less of a limit on the flash synch speed you use.  Most cameras have a flash synch speed of around 1/250 or 1/320 of a second, which is a ceiling for the maximum shutter speed.  The LX100 does not have that same hard limitation because of the leaf shutter -- you can shoot up to 1/2000 or 1/4000.  The shutter speed does not determine how much light hits your subject from the strobe -- that is controlled by the camera's aperture, and more importantly, how much power you give to the strobe.  But the shutter speed does control the ambient light which is lighting the background.  There may be shots, where you are really tightly focused on your subject, and you  want the background to be a bit darker to better isolate the subject --- and so you can bump up the shutter speed from 1/250 up to 1/500, or even 1/1000 (the max you would probably use underwater).  

I hope this is useful to you (and not too confusing). 



#7 Interceptor121

Interceptor121

    Sperm Whale

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1820 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Weybridge, UK

Posted 25 August 2015 - 08:42 AM

The Ys-01 DS-TTL is not the same of the D1 that in fact is called DS-TTL II. There is no doubt that the strobe will fire but in terms of getting the right exposure it will need to be confirmed. If have already the camera you can find out pretty easily. If you have not got the camera yet and you are in the market for a compact for still images there are other options that will work fine with the YS-01

Check my video, pictures and blog

YouTube Channel

Flickr Sets

Blog


#8 BaldBrian

BaldBrian

    Brine Shrimp

  • Member
  • Pip
  • 1 posts

Posted 02 March 2016 - 01:11 PM

Did anyone figure this out? I have an LX100 with Nauticam housing and YS-01 strobe and the strobe will not fire while the shutter is open trying to do TTL. I have the camera and strobe set to TTL, and have turned off red eye and AF lamp (this setting does not turn off preflash. preflash is turned off by setting the camera flash mode to manual.) The only way I can properly sync the strobe flash with the shutter is in manual mode. As far as I can tell this strobe and camera are not compatible for TTL?