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Member Since 16 Dec 2005
Offline Last Active Oct 11 2018 10:31 AM

#400008 Renting out my gear.

Posted by Jock on 11 October 2018 - 04:07 AM

Renting out UW-Photo gear?

You are tempting the gods...

Maybe you know Bob Halstead? He wrote „NEVER LEND YOUR CAMERA GEAR TO ANYONE IN ANY CIRCUMSTANCES (This is the Gods’ absolute favourite, the gear is certain to stuff up)“ - and I think most forum members will fully agree.
Here you can find the full essay:


#396751 Oly OM system starting from scratch

Posted by Jock on 25 June 2018 - 05:26 AM

It could be helpful if you gave some more infos: Where do you dive most of the time - tropical/clear water or in areas with limited visibility? Only on holiday or every other weekend? (Analogy alert: I need a new car, which one could you recommend?)


That said, ask three people and get four opinions...


As troporobo said, the 12-50mm is a versatile lens - this is the first lens I would buy, together with the Nauticam port. Good for Macro, good for wide angle,


If you are a "macro guy", the second lens would be the 60mm macro from Olympus (or maybe a 45/30mm macro if most of your dives are in murky waters). If you are more into wide angle, the Panasonic 7-14mm is a great lens, even for close-focus WA. And an acrylic port is "good enough" (unless you regularly publish in National Geographic).


A fisheye lens is definitively not a good lens to start with - IMHO!


Of course you could buy the the Oly "Pro"-line lenses, but do they give you a guarantee for better pics? Nope.


A good way to spend the money you save with cheaper lenses is to join an UW-photo workshop. You come from a compact camera, your EM5 will give you much more options for better pics - but also much more options to screw things up... A workshop might be a good investment. The key factor for good pics is behind the camera.





p.s.: Here in the forum there is an old thread about UW settings for the E-M5.

Or look here: http://www.uwphotogr...rwater-settings

#389200 Shooting Experience - Oly 30mm vs. 60mm Macro Lenses

Posted by Jock on 08 November 2017 - 02:05 PM

I am not sure if the 30mm macro lens makes sense underwater. Macro lenses are optimized for - guess what - macro. But with the 30mm lens subject distance definintively will be too close when used in macro mode. As you mentioned, difficult/impossible lighting, and of course only for static subjects.


Of course you can use the lens for subjects further away and have less water between the fish or whatever and your lens than with the 60mm lens  - but why not use a zoom lens instead? Much more versatile.



#367182 Sea & Sea / Inon reliability - opinions

Posted by Jock on 16 November 2015 - 10:16 PM


Others, including me, have experienced a twisting...

The strobe cap from Sea&Sea has a better design, it is almost impossible to lock it if the o-ring is twisted. But you cannot see the ring.
Inon has a transparent cap, the o-ring is yellow, so you can see a twisted o-ring - if you bother to have a look.
Both systems work. So this would not be a point to consider for me when buying a strobe.

The Inon has been on the market for a long time and proven its reliability, the DS2 is new. Is it sturdy? Probably. From the pictures of the DS2 I can see in the web it seems to be easy to operate, Inon is a bit more complicated in the beginning, and the strobe does not come with a useful manual. You have to do some web research to find your way, but once that is done no problem.

Steve, maybe you should throw a coin?


#363266 Drowned Inon Z240 - anything worth salvaging?

Posted by Jock on 15 July 2015 - 09:28 AM

Yes, BUT: If saltwater comes in contact with the batteries, they release gas, pressure is built up, and this pressure pushes the corrosive cocktail into the strobe. Happened to one of my Z240s. I was lucky: I disassembled the strobe as far as I could, gave it a good freshwater rinse, let it dry  - and alas, it has been working for more than two years now.


Had the same problem - a twisted o-ring that I did not notice. My fault, of course, but the Inon solution of sealing the battery compartment is less than ideal (IMHO).


Storker, for the next Inon you might want to invest into a second o-ring that you put into the cap before you dive (pics from h2o-tools.de):

#359267 Second thoughts about vacuum systems

Posted by Jock on 26 March 2015 - 10:22 PM

This one seems pretty obvious (to me...): Vacuum systems give you a pre-dive security check against user errors, i.e. twisted o-rings, a hair on an o-ring etc. In your case the shutter gland was loose. Would you have noticed without a vacuum system? No. Could you have noticed with the vacuum system? Yes - IF you had operated/knocked/twisted the shutter button while on land. Does anyone do that (operate all housing controls pre dive excessively)? No.

And IMHO the camera shop owner is completely wrong! It does not make any difference if you pull from inside the housing (= apply a vacuum) or push from outside (= apply water pressure). So the idea that the o-rings are "sucked in" is nonsense. And nonsense especially if you think about the relatively small degree of vacuum you apply with your pump.

Bottom line: If you want to avoid a flooding don't take your housing under water :-)

Just my two Euro-Cents

#350527 Help needed: What is the thread size of this Ikelite strobe adapter

Posted by Jock on 19 July 2014 - 10:38 PM

@ Bill and Tom,


thanks! There are a few specialized hardware stores around Cologne, but instead of trying to find it there (stainless doesn't make it easier), I searched on ebay Germany and found it.


Life could be so easy if you US guys wouldn't be so stubborn and finally change to... METRIC!  :evilgrin:



#348337 Olympus OM-D E-M1 or wait for Sony A6000

Posted by Jock on 29 May 2014 - 08:23 AM

Another point which might be worth thinking about: as far as I know, the Sony is not splash proof, the Olympus is. Not a bad thing if you consider in which environment you will use the camera. (It COULD save the camera in case of a minor flooding, or if you need to open the housing on a wet RIB or so.)

#340142 OM-D EM 5 and the Inon Z-240 (Type4)

Posted by Jock on 01 December 2013 - 03:39 PM

In another thread there was/is some discussion about the settings of the Inon strobe in combination with the Oly. I am opening a new thread, because if someone else is doing a search on this topic it might be easier to find. Hope this is okay.


There were different opinions on how the ACC-button should be set - in, out, or does not matter..


So I made some test shots, one single Inon Z-240 Type4 connected via fiber optic cable to a Nauticam housing.

Here are the results: 


When shooting the strobe in S-TTL (and the camera in flash fill), it does not matter if the button is in or out.


When shooting the strobe in M (and the camera in 1/64 strobe power), the button must be pushed in to influence the strobe output. 


When shooting the strobe in M (and the camera in 1/64 strobe power) and having the button OUT, it seems that the strobe always fires at the lowest possible manual power; when shooting at f/22 or at f/8 there is NO visible difference between manual power EV2 or EV8.


Any comments, do I oversee something?






Attached Images

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#340086 Underwater settings for the Olympus OM-D E-M5

Posted by Jock on 29 November 2013 - 01:47 PM

Hi all.. I have a couple of questions regarding the use of the Inon Z240's with the Nauticam / OM-D EM-5


1)   "advance cancel circuit switch".  Should that be in the up or down position when using optical fibre connection?


2)    what is the purpose of the +1/4 EV compensation switch on the front?


I've learnt one thing…. "there is never a dumb question… it only becomes dumb when you don't ask…"  :unsure:  :dunno:


Thanks for your patience - Karen


Hi Karen,


You can find infos here


and here



My understanding - which is contrary to what "barilhu" says - is:


When you shoot "STTL" with your Inon, you will need to have the button in the "Up/Out" position, when you shoot manual, you need to push it in.

("If your camera does not fire a pre-flash, ACC must be disabled.") - when you shoot "Inon manual", you will set your internal OM-D strobe to "manual" and 1/64 power (which saves camera battery power and is enough to trigger the Inon), and no preflash is emitted.


The switch in the front is for use with "Auto" - which you normally do NOT use with you rOM-D, so forget it. (The strobe and not the camera will measure the amount of light that is reflected from the subject and will shut off when enough light has arrived. The plus 1/4 switch will cut down the amount of light that reaches the strobe sensor, so the strobe burns longer)





#335896 Stability Issues with setup

Posted by Jock on 17 August 2013 - 03:02 AM



why not keep it super-simple? - This setup has been working for me for many years, even with my heavyweight NikonosRS-Zoom-IkeSS200! 


The OM-D and the Inons are so lightweight - absolutely no problems during the 60+ dives I have been using it up to today. And I personally do not feel that the rig in itself is unstable. Maybe you need to apply some more force when tightening the screws!!! :laugh: ( But remember: After "very tight" comes "very loose"...)


And, by the way, a very simple solution, cost about 2 US-$, for the replacement of the unusable grey Nauticam port protection: A 77mm lens cap from ebay.





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#330007 Olympus OM-D E-M5

Posted by Jock on 19 April 2013 - 11:52 PM

May I sum up the recent discussion? : Buy ANY of the suggested combinations - IT WILL WORK FINE! 



#315864 Flooded my D7000

Posted by Jock on 05 September 2012 - 02:46 AM

Some guys here are trying to be smart and think they can avoid a flooding with proper care and diligence ???

Maybe you should read this: