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Magrone

Member Since 03 Aug 2010
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 10:39 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: What wideangle to choose for canon 7dmii

12 June 2018 - 12:52 AM

And the new Canon 35mm macro lens is good for fish portraits and does 1:1 macro. Sea and Sea just came out with a port for it, so even more reason to skip  the mid range zoom. 


In Topic: What wideangle to choose for canon 7dmii

10 June 2018 - 03:17 PM

well, i am still confused.. if i go diving, meet a big napoleon, frogfish or rhinopias, i still want to get good pics.. will the tokina also work for those thi

 

You can think of a fisheye lens as a dive photography lens if that helps. It allows you to get very close and get it all in. This helps with lighting because the closer you get, the easier it is for your strobes to effectively light your subject. With a small dome you are able to get inches from your subject. So the Napolean (if its friendly), rhinopia and frogfish are also doable, and you will have enough space to add a diver or a sunball for depth and scale... which can greatly enhance the impact of the photo. Honestly my advice for someone starting out with cropped sensor is to get a fisheye lens and a 60mm lens. Most things are covered with these two lenses. As your macro photography advances you can get the 100m and go crazy with diopters.  I personally would not bother with a  mid range zoom for photographing wildlife underwater.  Shooting through water degrades your IQ. The further you are from your subject, the more water you shoot through, and the more detail/clarity you will lose. A good rule of thumb for starting out in underwater photography is to get close, then get closer if possible. Once you master this technique then you can adjust to your personal preference. The photo of the turtle is a good example. That photo would be difficult to get with a fisheye lens because in order to fill the frame you would  have to get very close to the turtle.  The lighting detail and overall IQ would be good, but you would scare off the cleaner fish. So there will be trade offs with the fisheye, but its the best place to start IMO. 


In Topic: Nauticam 45 viewfinder for wide angle?

03 June 2018 - 05:29 PM

45 is an essential tool for me now and I wouldn't consider trying to shoot without one,macro or wide. But there are limitations to its usefulness in wide and macro, namely shooting downward, and into the water column, esp at night. I think if you mainly shot downward, which is not something most people do anyway underwater, or did a lot of blackwater diving, I think a straight finder would be more suitable.


In Topic: What wideangle to choose for canon 7dmii

03 June 2018 - 05:20 PM

10-18mm is also an option but would require a larger dome and proper extension ring. I personally like how the 10-18mm works underwater but use my Canon 8-15mm way more. A big advantage of using a fisheye lens that focuses close, like the Canon 8-15 or tokina 10-17, is the ability to use a small dome, which is easier for travel, easier to light your subject without strobe flare, and the ability to get really close to subjects with close focus wide angle technique. 10-18mm is good for shooting Wrecks (straight lines) and somewhat good for shooting large fish like sharks. The fisheye is just more versatile and I don't think you will miss the rectilinear  once you get used to it. 


In Topic: Octopus abuse on National Geographic

11 December 2017 - 05:16 PM

Thanks for your response Gabriel,

 

I don't claim to be an octopus expert,  I am merely stating observations from having hundreds of so called "interactions" with reef octopus for a over a decade. They are shy typically, which is why it hid from you in the first place. I personally don't believe in using techniques to have "interactions" with marine animals. I believe that photographers should photograph animals exactly how they find them, without harm or manipulation used to produce the photograph.

 

And the video you shared does display the amazing capabilities of Octopus in shallow tide pools, but I don't think it saves this photo and how it was achieved. Now the question of whether your photo is natural behavior has been answered. You admitted to forcing the "interaction" with the animal. Does this disqualify your image from the contest? That is for the judges to decide.

 

But the real reason I felt compelled to bring this up in a public forum is because of the two missing arms I see in some photographs and then one  missing arm in another photo, and then, what seems to be a healthy (albeit scared) 8 armed octopus in another. It is hard to tell if I am perceiving this correctly. Maybe the octopus shifts and hides its arms in some photos and not others. My apologies if the octopus was found this way....But With the inking and the odd behavior and the admitted forced "interaction", it gives me a bad feeling that the animal was damaged for the purpose of making a pretty photo.  I have zero tolerance for this type of behavior from fellow photographers and I sincerely hope this was not the case. This looks very fishy to me, so I spoke up.