Jump to content


Member Since 23 Jul 2010
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 12:51 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: The relationship between exposure and sharpness

07 August 2018 - 05:00 AM

I've got LR6 but the stand-alone version because I really hate the subscription model (even if it is inevitable) and so there is no dehaze option anywhere.  This post led to a search for a plugin option and I see that there are a few.  Thanks for the tip!

In Topic: Looking for advice on how to improve photo sharpness

07 August 2018 - 01:27 AM

Now that I see the full image and realize how much you have cropped, and with the caveat that I have not used your lens, I suspect you've done about as good as can be expected.  First, from that distance, small movements of the camera are less important than when you are 50mm away from your subject.  Second, you're shooting through a lot of water.  Third, you just can't expect the sharpness of a dedicated macro lens if you're that far from the subject with a kit lens.  I have had various Olympus m4/3 systems and I can tell you that moving from the 14-42 zoom lens to the 12-50 with macro switch was a revelation, then moving to the dedicated 60 mm macro was another quantum leap.  


Not to say you can't get great results of course.  And practice is fun!  As a final thought, see if you can borrow a wet diopter to get closer to the subject, and what changes when you do.  They aren't that expensive if they do produce the results you want. 

In Topic: Looking for advice on how to improve photo sharpness

06 August 2018 - 05:55 PM

Obtaining sharp focus is not always easy with macro shots, as tiny movements of the camera can have big effects on sharpness. Stability is easier said than done when floating!  


If you're using a strobe, shutter speed is not very important for sharpness as the flash duration is in microseconds, i.e. two orders of magnitude faster than the shutter. 


Lenses have an optimum aperture. Generally, diffraction becomes an issue at smaller apertures, so f8 should be safe, but you could do some research to see if there are any issues with your lens.  Or just set up a tabletop experiment and shoot the same subject at varying apertures to see if there are apparent differences as you stop down. 

In Topic: packing and transporting my rig

29 July 2018 - 02:27 PM

I tried various combinations and didn't find that separating the port from the housing worked any better. Maybe it wouldn't work as well with a larger DSLR housing. I guess that is one advantage of a m4/3 system.


I got the ThinkTank dividers and lid organizer, mainly because I couldn't try the Pelican Trek Pak dividers in person and was a bit sceptical that they would bend as I wanted to accommodate the housing and dome port as shown.  The lid organizer is excellent, much nicer than the Pelican mesh version, and will hold a laptop or tablet:



In Topic: packing and transporting my rig

29 July 2018 - 01:12 AM

I've recently upgraded to an E-M1 mk II in a Nauticam housing and my backpack wouldn't do the job anymore, after happily carrying my previous E-M5 etc.  So I've gone to a Pelican 1510 with Think Tank dividers and lid organizer.  Here is what fits:




Camera and lens are inside the housing and macro port. Then two strobes and focus light with batteries installed, Subsee diopter, wide angle lens and port, two computers, torch, vacuum pump, and loads of spare batteries underneath stuff.  There is a little space for a few more small things that I could fill on top of all the gear if well padded. The lid organizer has the spare o-rings, tools, cables, diffusers, etc.  Total weight is guesstimated at 16 kg.


I'm not thrilled that the housing won't fit with the handles attached, which means dealing with 12 fiddly Allen bolts each time. I can't fit chargers, arms, floats, or clamps which must all go elsewhere. I could carry the computers in a backpack (which I have in the past) and then fit the clamps and arms, but still no floats or chargers


Anybody have a more efficient packing scheme for this kind of case?