SPP

Sorry guys OOT but I need to share this............

Hi Peter,

Alor ....hhhmm..scarry place, a good friend of mine at Karl's Dream ( Alor Straight too ) needed to rev his 140HP outboard to 3,000 RPM just to maintain position during one of those super current there and this is a small RIB of no more than 4.7 meters which can do 25 knots with 6 divers at WOT in flat water. Damn, I would not want to be caught at such current speed. In 2009 I nearly died at 3.5 knots horizontal current which I never knew has pocket of down current........but I do have a bail out device for down current powered by 2 x 68 grams C02 cartridge and 50 meters reel with 1000 lbs kevlar to allow me not to die of embolism. Full BCD inflation 20 liter class and full kicking on powerful fins can't do shiet...its at a bluewater 200 meters ahead of a sea mount,  not a wall, so I can't do Spiderman escape and got to use my bail out device. 1st and last REAL use...wheewww.

Contact Carter Lift Bag. Its a US company.

http://www.carterbag...sonalfloat.html

A 50 lbs lift will do, its totally enclosed model...choose  CBPF-50. It can be installed with a C02 activator, which can take 68 grams one-time-use C02 cardtridge. Remember in the older days when one buy Scubapro BCD the Classic, it has in its pocket a CO2 inflator ?

Per 2 cc of CO2 at 1 ATM = 1 liter air space. So you get 34 liters of air equal lift at surface and 6.8 liters at 40 meters depth.

The key is the 50 meters line with a reel, so that you can send the float all the way to the surface if not shallower and at 10 meters or 2 ATM, you get 17 liters lift equivalent. It has over pressure valve, so no worry. Its material is tougher than 400 denier BCD fabric, super tough. My 50 lbs one ( no C02 inflator ) is now almost 8 years old already and its my second marker sausage, not bail out one....but I can use it as bail out when needed...however pumping such a big sausage with octopus is a pain in a strong current, let alone down current. Get 600 lbs dyneema/spectra, it will fit in a small finger reel. Kevlar rot in the sun UV, Dyneema/spectra does not. This super sausage can save your life. Mine is custom made and shape, but its a 22 liters lift equivalent only with some "unique" feature.

2 x 68gram CO2 stashed well will not be detected by airport x-ray and its airline safe no worry.

Life jackets on planes are +-32gram CO2, same cartridge type too...LOL.

http://www.lelandltd...pressure4.1.htm

There are two kinds of thread for 68 grams. 1/2-20 UNF and 5/8-18UNF. Carter can tell u which one to use for the kind of activator he will provide.

You can Fed-Ex CO2 from USA to Singapore, its possible with hazmat surcharge of US$50 or so.

Or call a marine supply store which may carry 60 grams CO2...just make sure the thread type match ur CO2 activator.

Clean the cartridge well and lubricate a bit for longer life from corossion.

One word of caution. Do not ever get entangled with the reel line when u launch this floating missile.

At shallow water, say 10 meters or 2 ATM, 17 liters lift is not something your fin can EVER fight for more than 20-30 seconds before you see stars and then tunnel vision from over extertion and still being pulled to the surface...LOL.

Practice makes perfect, I always practice using this bail out device, combined with long ahhhhhhh and very short rapid breath, depending on how much line I reel out before I launch myself to the surface. In strong current, if you release 20 meters of line from the reel, you will not stop at 20 meters depth but at approx 10 meters due to sideway movement of the sausage in strong current and the line will not be straight up pure 20 meters. Make a knot at 30 meters on the reel line and place a simple marker with a yellow color string or whatever very visual . So when you see the marker, grab hard the line and fly to the surface and you will stop approx at 15-20 meters.

The finger reel itself, place a tiny bit of lead for sure negative buoyancy because when the sausage rise to the surface, the reel will spin so fast its hot even with gloves on if you try to slow it down and it may follow the sausage for a while. You would want the reel to be at your depth with a mere soft guide-touch from your hands making a circle to the Dyneema like how fishing rod guide holes manages the line. Never never clip a reel to your BCD while deploying this missile.

One won't die from embolism shooting up fast from 40 meters to 15 meters if you open up your airway. Deco obligation ...that is another story but sucked down to the abbyss will be worse choice I guess. Hardly a  need for  deep stop deeper than 21 meters..... if you are only doing 40-50 meters and has say 15 minutes deco stop obligation. As long as you are within 12 meters depth, the algo can re-calculated by the dive comp even if you do violate deep stop to save ur life. I personally don't care about deep stop if 50meters as max depth, but my 10 meters to 3 meters I do super super slow.

The worse & strongest current in Indonesia is not Alor.

Its Capalulu Straight. There is a tide station there and its 9-10 knots at peak, no joke.

1° 52.962'S by 125° 19.945'E  its between Ambon and Halmahera. 

Anything 30 miles north of Ambon Bay, its crazy current zone already exposed to Indonesian Throughflow

Dive safe Peter....

 

This camera is target for users who have decent knowledge about shutter speed, aperture and EV. By knowing the relationship of that 3 properties, the dials give users control on the result. P/A/S/M mode is easier to use for beginner, but often this also make the user "not to think" much. I have a friend just pick up photography, he just keep rotate the dial from P to A to S etc. and keep taking shot after shots and don't know what to do when the picture come up not great.

 

LX100 might be confusing for new users, but over time, it will force user to think about the technical aspect of photography, which is not a bad thing. Look at it this way, it's not a camera for your grandma, so it's a camera for photo enthusiast, make you stand out from other Point & shoot people, and the price tag reflect that too.

LOL....I bought this for its 4K video at small foot print, 12MP is crap by today's standard for still photo but its choosen by the designer to defend its 4K video I am sure. Even GH-4 still photo is crap. I got it for 4K video too, change-able lens model.

If I want to take serious photo , rarely though as I don't really like photo much ...  I use my D800 or for simple ones for work I use my RX100mk1 or Mk3.

I am in a 4K junkie fever now, I already have two Hero4 Black 4K, Panasonic Bullet Cam 4K that HX-500 and that Inon wet wide angle lens for GoPro and wet close up wide angle lens...so me now hunting small footprint 4K camera which Nauticam will have housing for....he he he he.

I love small 4K cameras, regardless of its limitation they are cute and fun to use and more affordable.

.

What happens if you shoot in aperture priority instead with auto ISO on? I know the shutter speed goes to 1/25 or 1/30 minimum but how does it manage between iso and shutter?

The display does not show what ISO it chooses nor shutter speed for A mode video, but for photo with half button press you see the data.

I also wish it will show shutter speed and ISO choosen for video... would be nice.

 

This interface harkens back to the days of pre-auto exposure cameras. Then the aperture control was part of the lens, not in the camera. So you want to adjust the lens, you turn a dial on the lens. Want to adjust camera, turn a dial on the camera. In a sense, it's more logical than what we have now. I suspect that interface came from cheap automatics with one dial. Why else is it that the function of the wheel near the shutter button on my Canon SLR changes depending on the mode? As does the back dial?

 

I don't know if the LX100 controls are ultimately better, but it isn't new, it's the oldest thing under the sun.

Aha good info, thanks.

My first camera was a Vivitar back in the early 80s or very late 70s, 35mm film days but I forgot the details of its operation or the model number, I am sure it was not full manual AE because I won't want one ...LOL. I was like 13-14 years old back then.

I wanted a Nikon but for some reason the saleman was so good...he sold me a Vivitar....ha ha ha.

Later I got a cheap Nikon F-801 silver body. That was my last SLR 35mm film camera.

Later near mid 90s , I got a waterproof Canon A1, that ends my 35mm film camera ownership...I flooded it...LOL.

Next camera ownership was a digital one, used...Nikon Coolpix 5000 early 2000s.

And surely digital camera from then on....

I never had the opportunity to mess with pre-auto exposure one, my eldest brother did.

I said the second dial on top is EV +-, the extreme right one.

The Lens Dial is F/Aperture but there is an A in red and must match with the bigger top dial also an A with red = P mode

Spin the lens Dial away from the red A for any F setting....while top big dial is A ( red ) = A mode.

Spin the big dial on top to select shutter speed, while lens dial in A ( red ) camera becomes S mode.

Spin fron lens dial away from A ( red ) to any F setting and at the same time top big dial to any shutter speed, we get M ( manual ) mode.

This is so confusing....LOL.

It has no separation between movie mode and still photo model like RX100 with its MOVIE MODE and sub menu :

- P mode

- S mode

- A mode

- Manual mode

In a good way its like, you can do all the manual setting all you like in video.

in S mode the rear small dial is unique, it can set shutter speed but limited to 2 down step and 2 up step of what the big top dial setting is.

Example :

I set shutter at 1/60 with big top dial.

While recording.....I then mess with rear small dial, it allows me to go 1/50 and 1/40 down and 1/80 and 1/100 up....he he he so unique and what purpose, I guess its fine tuning as the big top dial does not have 1/50 or 1/40 or 1/80 1/100. It has 1/60 and then jump to 1/125.

While recoding in P mode, all auto, spin the F lens dial and then it becomes A mode. Spin top shutter dial to any shutter speed setting, it becomes M mode. Indeed unique.

Must get to know the camera better, as my muscle memory and operational memory is still very much RX100.

Positive or not this setting method of LX100, I must use it in real recording situation to know more.

Accidental touch/spin sometimes can be a problem...LOL.

The iA mode shows none of shutter speed of aperture data on LCD, but allows us to mess with EV +- only, top dial right side. If close up shooting it shows the flower icon, the macro....that's it. 

Its ISO can not be locked like RX100 to a certain range we want.

Minimum focus at max W.A is not bad, approx 4cm....its icon stated 3cm but visually I think its 4cm.

.