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Member Since 13 Feb 2016
Online Last Active Today, 02:33 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Strobe Problems and the Battery Compartment.

Yesterday, 05:08 PM

Agree, The INON battery connector cap stays dry and needs no attention.

In Topic: Nauticam WWL-1 on different setups

Yesterday, 05:06 PM

right, missed that, but it's still a clear gap to the oly/Sony and also the Canon D80 I looked at before.   Just for fun I added the D500 to the DXO comparison, they are very tightly grouped between the olympus/sony and Nikon.  I think a lot of it comes down to the sensor surface area.  m43 is just enough to get over that hump and gather enough light to largely overcome the noise so a 50% increase in light gathered in APS-C is not really enough to make a big improvement.  You need the huge jump from 370mm2 surface area to 860 mm2 of full frame to get significant improvement over APS-C.


I compared the LX-100 to a few other cameras as well, it seems to be trailing the pack from the likes of similar vintage EM-5 II etc.  perhaps the raw conversions are not as good..... if I remember correctly DXO bypasses raw conversion to measure the sensor directly.

In Topic: Nauticam WWL-1 on different setups

Yesterday, 05:20 AM

No,  the way Nauticam provides is a bayonet dock -   there's a Bayonet adapter on your port and you screw another dock to one of your flash arms.  The WWL lens is 130mm dia and the flotation collar makes it a lot bigger, takes up most of an arm.  Also note the thread I mentioned - that was also about air bubbles sticking to the WWL they recommend removing it in the water and shaking to get bubbles to dislodge.


I agree about topside, it has heaps of cool features like built in focus stacking for macro - it will either assemble and stack the images to a single file or output the individual raw files for stacking externally or both and the pro-capture where you hold the button half way and it starts recording images at a very high frame rate - when you press to take the images it keeps a certain number from before the moment.    And handheld the onboard stabilisation is crazy good this image is 1/13 sec with the Oly 300mm lens ISO800:  http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~chrisx2/images/EasternYellowRobin5.jpg 


On the image quality thing the LX-100 is a 1" sensor it's only got 1/2 the area of the m43 sensor and the Sony is 50% bigger than the the Olympus sensor but matches it quite closely.  The image quality is a combination of all of the factors, assume you've compared the LX-100 on DXO mark, it's down by 2 stops on noise and nearly 1 EV on dynamic range at ISO200, admittedly less at base ISO, down 1 bit on colour sensitivity and 1/2  a bit on tonal range.  The raw conversion engine will also have some play in the outcome. 

In Topic: GH5 broken power switch

25 June 2019 - 11:03 PM

If you look around 5 sec mark I can briefly see the whole housing lever.  It sits around the centre push button shaft by the looks of things and the shaft has a stop machined on it and it looks like you could lever the housing lever down another 1 mm or so on the shaft, whether it'll stay down or not I don't know, you might need a spacer above the housing lever.  If you really wanted to fix it you might need to remove the housing lever, file the groove deeper and file a little of the thickness of the lever where it goes through the shaft  so you can push it down a little more, you might get it 2mm lower at a guess but it's hard to judge scale from jiiggly video, but it might be enough - do at your own risk of course and look at the mechanisms closely to confirm the function of everything.before attempting anything.  You'd have to leave a gap so you can't provide downward force from the lever onto the switch when you press the housing on/off lever in to engage the camera control.


I have an olympus EM-5 II which uses a similar lever arrangement but without the centre press button,  The switch itself seems more robust as it has the full thickness of the lever attaching to the dial portion that turns  where the Panasonic seems to have a thin lever to get under the dial the on off switch is associated with, so does not look as robust.  I'd send it back to Panasonic particularly if its still in warranty.

In Topic: Compact VS SLR

25 June 2019 - 06:45 PM

There's various ways to do the macro and wide on one dive thing, it depends on what your most important criteria is.  Anything with a separate dome won't be much smaller than your DSLR housing.  The 1" compacts are generally as small as you would want to go to maintain good quality, but none of them do it all by themselves, they generally have flat ports so their 24mm wide end becomes about 30mm and not really that wide and they don't focus ultra close either so you need wet lenses for both ends and a system to swap between the two be it bayonet mounts on arms or flip holders.  What you want to do with that will depend on the type of diving you are doing, it's one thing to take a rig with a double flip holder off a boat in calm tropical waters and another entirely to drag the rig and yourself ashore over the rocks coming back from a shore dive in Sydney.   The AF is also mostly not DSLR standard with any of the compact options.  Pretty good wide with halfway decent light maybe not so good at macro end.


As far as sensor size goes your D7000 is DX and has 370 mm2 sensor area, m43 is 225, 1" like the RX100 is 116 while compacts like the TG-5 are 25mm2.  Surface area is how much light the sensor can gather and relates directly to noise.  If you look at DXOMark the performance of your D7000 and the EM1 MkII is pretty much equal so you should notice no loss of quality with that camera.  The Oly EM1 MkII on the other hand has excellent AF and I use it in C-AF plus tracking and works even in very low light, I was shooting mandarin fish at dusk in Lembeh and they didn't like my focus light so I turned it off and the AF was still snappy


There's new options like the wet wide lens but that's a huge expensive heavy chunk of glass, if you leave it mounted it's about a 10-30mm lens depending on the lens you have behind it and it will focus right down to the dome, but taking it off to get closer you can do fish and large nudis but nothing smaller without also carrying a wet close up lens.  The MWL has some promise as it will allow 0.5x macro and near fisheye with a 30mm macro plus the MWL-1   it's a bit more compact than the WWL.  and in m43 you use it with a 30mm macro lens.  The 30mm won't take diopters but will get you to around 0.5x before the subject just gets too close to the port to light easily, and also good for things up to about a 200mm fish.


A good compromise between the two is something like the olympus 12-40 behind a dome it's 24mm equivalent on the wide end and at the tele end will do 0.3x which is something like a frame 60mm across.  It's a very sharp lens and I use it for offshore dives around Sydney, great for smallish fish through to weedies, blue gropers and various sharks and rays we get.  My website is shot with a mixture of the 12-40 and 30/60mm macros for the shots around Sydney:  http://www.aus-natural.com/Underwater/index_gallery.html The Indonesia shots are 60mm macro and 8mm fisheye.   I tend to use the 30 or 60mm macro inside the bays (Bare Island, The Steps) and 12-40mm outside (Oak Park, Whale watch platform etc).  Not sure where in Oz you are based but if in Sydney you could arrange to meet up to see the rig in person, to see what you would be getting into.