
YS-D1 or Inon 240?
#1
Posted 28 June 2012 - 07:48 PM
I'm getting the new Olympus OM-D e-m5 and am planning on the Nauticam housing for it. As for flash units, which do you think is better suited to this camera/housing combo?
#2
Posted 29 June 2012 - 04:27 AM
Hi guys,
I'm getting the new Olympus OM-D e-m5 and am planning on the Nauticam housing for it. As for flash units, which do you think is better suited to this camera/housing combo?
I've chosen to take one of each with me on my next trip. I'll let you know what I think in around two weeks!
I buy my own photographic kit. Diving equipment manufacturers and diving services suppliers get even-handed treatment from me whether they choose to advertise in the publications I write for or not. All the equipment I get on loan is returned as soon as it is finished with. Did you know you can now get Diver Mag as an iPad/Android app?
#3
Posted 29 June 2012 - 06:02 AM
http://www.uwphotogr...1-strobe-review
The YS-1ds are stronger.
8mm, 12-50mm, 45mm lenses
My web page.
#4
Posted 29 June 2012 - 07:32 AM
S.
www.stewartsy.com
SLS Photography, when your images matter....
Aquatica, Amphibico, TLC, ULCS (Philippines), Stix, iTorch, FIT, Magic Filter Dealer
Philippine Dive Trip Specialist
#5
Posted 29 June 2012 - 10:09 AM
Sort of stronger. If you look at comparable beam geometries, I think they are the same. Naked without diffusers, the D1 is stronger but narrower. If you put the diffuser on the D1 to get the same beam spread as the Z240 without its diffusers they are pretty much the same. If you put the stronger diffuser on the D1 and the diffuser on the Z240 they are the same again. That being said, the D1 is about $100 cheaper than the Z240 so that may make your decision for you.FWIW, I've ordered the E-M5 housing and two Sea and Sea YS-D1s.
http://www.uwphotogr...1-strobe-review
The YS-1ds are stronger.
Bill
- velviajohn likes this
Bill
Canon 7d, Nauticam, Lots of glass, Olympus OMD-EM5, Nauticam, 60 macro, 45 macro, 8 mm fisheye, Inon, S&S, Athena Strobes plus lots of fiddly bits.
www.blueviews.net
#6
Posted 29 June 2012 - 10:31 AM
It might be interesting to compare the sensitivity of the slave sensors in various conditions.
Tim

#7
Posted 29 June 2012 - 11:02 AM
Not sure what you meant about being less flexible for TTL. D1 has slave function that auto senses preflashes and also has a S-TTL capability. Used the D1 with DSLR and NEX in both manual and TTL, no problems.
S.
www.stewartsy.com
SLS Photography, when your images matter....
Aquatica, Amphibico, TLC, ULCS (Philippines), Stix, iTorch, FIT, Magic Filter Dealer
Philippine Dive Trip Specialist
#8
Posted 29 June 2012 - 04:25 PM
One issue with S&S (at least historically) is that the slave sensor sensitivity is very low. I am using a micro-led strobe emulator on my 7D. It triggers perfectly reliably all of my Inon strobes (s2000, d2000, z240) but mostly it requires tremendous fiddling to get it to fire the YS01, the Athena ring (ys01 hardware) or the 110a. I haven't yet gotten a D1 but if it uses the same sensor as the 110a then this MIGHT be an issue for some folks.Tim,
Not sure what you meant about being less flexible for TTL. D1 has slave function that auto senses preflashes and also has a S-TTL capability. Used the D1 with DSLR and NEX in both manual and TTL, no problems.
S.
Bill
Bill
Canon 7d, Nauticam, Lots of glass, Olympus OMD-EM5, Nauticam, 60 macro, 45 macro, 8 mm fisheye, Inon, S&S, Athena Strobes plus lots of fiddly bits.
www.blueviews.net
#9
Posted 30 June 2012 - 10:29 AM
Jerry
#10
Posted 30 June 2012 - 10:37 AM
Tim,
Not sure what you meant about being less flexible for TTL. D1 has slave function that auto senses preflashes and also has a S-TTL capability. Used the D1 with DSLR and NEX in both manual and TTL, no problems.
S.
There are more stops of variable power in TTL emulation with the Inon Z-240. Inon's slave function has, in the past, been more reliable than Sea&Sea's.
Tim

#11
Posted 07 July 2012 - 01:36 AM
Edited by Trevor Rees, 07 July 2012 - 01:38 AM.
#12
Posted 07 July 2012 - 12:27 PM
Bill
Bill
Canon 7d, Nauticam, Lots of glass, Olympus OMD-EM5, Nauticam, 60 macro, 45 macro, 8 mm fisheye, Inon, S&S, Athena Strobes plus lots of fiddly bits.
www.blueviews.net
#13
Posted 08 July 2012 - 06:41 AM
Phil Rudin
- tdpriest likes this
#14
Posted 08 July 2012 - 08:58 PM

Nikon D90 Aquatica housing, nikkor 60mm, ,105VR mm, 18-70mm, 17-55mm, 10.5mm FE, 15mm FE, 10-20mm.
Inon strobes, TLC arms.
www.mcgregorUW.smugmug.com
#15
Posted 12 July 2012 - 09:21 AM
I am looking to buy a couple of strobes(a toss up between the D1 and Z240) so when I saw this I thought great, but still not sure.
I seem to be getting the idea that it may be better to stick to the tried and tested Z240??
I have just upgraded to an Olympus EPM1... I?s the difference between the two going to matter to the quality of my pics
#16
Posted 15 July 2012 - 12:47 PM
I buy my own photographic kit. Diving equipment manufacturers and diving services suppliers get even-handed treatment from me whether they choose to advertise in the publications I write for or not. All the equipment I get on loan is returned as soon as it is finished with. Did you know you can now get Diver Mag as an iPad/Android app?
#17
Posted 25 August 2012 - 03:43 AM
Recently i discovered that the output of the renovated strobe was much stronger then the type III strobe. The type III strobe tubes were going black, just like John's. It is getting a new circuit board right now. The last type II strobe i still use and it is still stronger then the Type III, but not as good as the renovated strobe. Once my Type III is renovated and back i may send my old type II strobe for repair, or just get a S-2000 as off camera strobe (just little more expensive then a new circuit board)
I think that all strobes tubes go black/grey after a while, resulting in less performance, which is not a specific INON problem IMO. But maybe there are other wetpixelers who'd like to comment on this.
Udo
Edited by Udo van Dongen, 25 August 2012 - 03:45 AM.
www.udovandongen.com
Nikon D800, D800E, Hugyfot housing, 15 mm fisheye, 16-35 mm WA, 105mm VR Macro, 60 mm Macro, Subsee +5 an +10 wet diopters, Inon Z-240 strobes (3x), Inon float arms, Nauticam armclamps, Bigblue and Inon focus lights.
#18
Posted 28 August 2012 - 02:56 PM
Please check out my photo gallery -
#19
Posted 04 September 2012 - 06:27 AM
I bought two -D1s in May. I've already had to deal with two replacements. First, one of the units I got in May developed a short and was replaced. Then after a couple weeks, the replacement unit would start flashing red/green on a fresh pair of batteries, so that's been replaced. Now the other unit I got in May flooded in the battery compartment at the beginning of the this month, even though the battery cap and o-ring were in perfect condition, the o-ting was perfectly clean and lubed properly, and the cap sealed correctly. Sea&Sea says they won't cover it under warranty and are basically blaming me for the flooding and want to charge me for the repair. While I have it insured and any cost will be covered, I'm not pleased with their dismissive attitude, especially since I've had to deal with 2 defective units already and quite frankly, they should be the party proving to me their products are more reliable than what I've seen so far.
Same issues here with the YS-D1's. I'll jump in and have one or both strobes start flashing red/green with fresh batteries, and it's completely random as to when it happens. Sometimes I can get a whole dive, maybe even two, with no problems. Have to start the replacement process, but unfortunately I'm locked in for Lembeh and Ambon over the next two weeks with strobes that are completely haywire.
Have you experienced the problem in all strobe operating modes - manual, manual for pre-flash, and TTL?
Canon 5DMkIII, Nauticam NA-5DMKIII, 2x Inon Z-240
#20
Posted 04 September 2012 - 03:04 PM
I shot mostly with the strobes in manual mode because of the TTL problems I was having with the one.
Edited by jlyle, 04 September 2012 - 03:06 PM.
8mm, 12-50mm, 45mm lenses
My web page.