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Do you shoot video with your SLR.


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#1 Captain_Caveman

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Posted 19 January 2011 - 07:28 AM

There's not many people shooting video with their SLRs, but there are a couple I've seen stalking around. I'm one of them. I use my 5D2 to film HD footage with spectacular results. You would have to spend big bucks to get a similar quality from a camcorder. Plus, being from a photographic background, I'm accustomed to using the camera in full manual, setting the exposure, ISO and focus points manually.

But they come with their own issues and need some time to get the best out of them.


If anyone's using an SLR for video, let's hear it, maybe we can swap ideas and tips and hopefully get this as a sticky in the hope that one day we may attain the heady hights of a whole branch!


Or I may just be the only one that is doing this :)


So! Let's hear it, do you use an SLR for video, and if so, what's you're setup?

I use...

Canon 5d2
Aquatica Housing
8" Dome
Sigma 15mm
Sola lights





~ Canon 24-70 f/2.8 L - Canon 70-200 IS f/2.8 L - Canon 50 f/1.8 ~

~ Canon 350D - Canon G9 - Canon 430 EX ~

#2 Giles

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Posted 19 January 2011 - 07:45 AM

I have a 5dmkII also .. but rarely want that sort of video quality.

I tend to use my Flip camera the most .. (I dont do underwater video much at all) The ease of putting it all together and sharing is what I am after .. not trying to win any awards.

I am however considering getting a GoPro camera to attach to my housing ... so I always have HD video of what my camera was pointing at incase there is anything cool!

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#3 ileiman

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Posted 19 January 2011 - 07:59 AM

I mostly shoot stills with my 7D, but occasionally take some short video clips as well.
In good light it does produce spectacular quality.
The bad thing is that you need lots of light, so you would need to invest serious amounts of money to good video lights. Or shoot very shallow.
Another bad thing with HD video: you need a lot of horsepower to edit it. SO a new computer and new editing software too... :)
Canon 7d, Tokina 10-17mm fisheye, Canon EF-S 60mm Macro, Sigma 10-17mm OS HSM, Ikelite housing,
2x Ikelite ds-161 strobes with Stix 12"+12" arms with floats.
Canon ixus 980is in Canon housing.
Olympus c8080wz in Olympus housing.
website www.leiman.fi.

#4 Captain_Caveman

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Posted 19 January 2011 - 08:15 AM

The bad thing is that you need lots of light, so you would need to invest serious amounts of money to good video lights. Or shoot very shallow.


Sorry, but this isn't true. It's the opposite. With fast glass, HDSLRs can shoot in near pitch black environments where your standard consumer or prosumer cam would give up.

I film in caves and Caverns, I've used both and believe me, the amount of information you get from a HDSLR in low light conditions is staggering.

EDIT: Sorry, just seen the end of the sentence. Yes, shoot shallow. I film some stuff at f/2.8.

Edited by Captain_Caveman, 19 January 2011 - 08:17 AM.


I use...

Canon 5d2
Aquatica Housing
8" Dome
Sigma 15mm
Sola lights





~ Canon 24-70 f/2.8 L - Canon 70-200 IS f/2.8 L - Canon 50 f/1.8 ~

~ Canon 350D - Canon G9 - Canon 430 EX ~

#5 Drew

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Posted 19 January 2011 - 08:21 AM

http://wetpixel.com/...showtopic=30740

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#6 ileiman

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Posted 19 January 2011 - 09:26 AM

Sorry, but this isn't true. It's the opposite. With fast glass, HDSLRs can shoot in near pitch black environments where your standard consumer or prosumer cam would give up.

I film in caves and Caverns, I've used both and believe me, the amount of information you get from a HDSLR in low light conditions is staggering.

EDIT: Sorry, just seen the end of the sentence. Yes, shoot shallow. I film some stuff at f/2.8.

What I meant is that if you want good colors, like red corals popping out at 20 meters, then you need the good lights. If you are happy with dull greyish blue at 20 meters, then no problem. But at HD you really see the huge difference between nice colours and not so nice colours, so the bar of expectation get raised. At 5 meters you do get the colours witout the lights.

And of course when HDSLR is compared against a video camera (with small sensor, slow glass) then the difference is huge.
Canon 7d, Tokina 10-17mm fisheye, Canon EF-S 60mm Macro, Sigma 10-17mm OS HSM, Ikelite housing,
2x Ikelite ds-161 strobes with Stix 12"+12" arms with floats.
Canon ixus 980is in Canon housing.
Olympus c8080wz in Olympus housing.
website www.leiman.fi.

#7 Captain_Caveman

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Posted 19 January 2011 - 09:38 AM

What I meant is that if you want good colors, like red corals popping out at 20 meters, then you need the good lights. If you are happy with dull greyish blue at 20 meters, then no problem. But at HD you really see the huge difference between nice colours and not so nice colours, so the bar of expectation get raised.



This is just down to HD vs SD then, not specifically to using HDSLRs for video.

I use...

Canon 5d2
Aquatica Housing
8" Dome
Sigma 15mm
Sola lights





~ Canon 24-70 f/2.8 L - Canon 70-200 IS f/2.8 L - Canon 50 f/1.8 ~

~ Canon 350D - Canon G9 - Canon 430 EX ~

#8 gina

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Posted 19 January 2011 - 09:40 AM

So! Let's hear it, do you use an SLR for video, and if so, what's you're setup?

I shoot video, although not a whole lot of it. I've got a 5DMkII and while I usually concentrate on stills there's the occasional situation that just does not translate to still photography: scrawled filefish flashing colors at one another, whitetips hunting at Cocos, etc.

During the day I just shoot without additional lighting. For night time I currently have a Fix LED modeling light I use as a spotlight, but I want to upgrade that to a Sola with red light.

This thread reminds me - I have a bunch of manta video from Hanifaru Bay I need to edit!

-Gina

Edited by gina, 19 January 2011 - 09:41 AM.


#9 Captain_Caveman

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Posted 19 January 2011 - 09:44 AM

http://wetpixel.com/...showtopic=30740


Sorry Drew, didn't see that post you started back in June 2009. Hopefully there's more people using this technology now.

I use...

Canon 5d2
Aquatica Housing
8" Dome
Sigma 15mm
Sola lights





~ Canon 24-70 f/2.8 L - Canon 70-200 IS f/2.8 L - Canon 50 f/1.8 ~

~ Canon 350D - Canon G9 - Canon 430 EX ~

#10 SimonSpear

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Posted 23 January 2011 - 01:01 PM

What I meant is that if you want good colors, like red corals popping out at 20 meters, then you need the good lights. If you are happy with dull greyish blue at 20 meters, then no problem. But at HD you really see the huge difference between nice colours and not so nice colours, so the bar of expectation get raised. At 5 meters you do get the colours witout the lights.

And of course when HDSLR is compared against a video camera (with small sensor, slow glass) then the difference is huge.


Hiya Ileiman

Not sure how/where/when you've been shooting a HDSLR underwater but your info is a bit inaccurate. I've been shooting a 7D underwater and one of the most remarkable aspects of using it has been its ability to shoot using available light in low light conditions. Just last week I was shooting at 40m and getting remarkable results using Manual White Balance without even using a filter - way better results than you'd ever get with lights and/or with video cameras many, many thousands of pounds more expensive than a 7D. If you know how to film with it you can really get some remarkable results.

Cheers, Simon

#11 ileiman

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Posted 23 January 2011 - 05:54 PM

Hiya Ileiman

Not sure how/where/when you've been shooting a HDSLR underwater but your info is a bit inaccurate. I've been shooting a 7D underwater and one of the most remarkable aspects of using it has been its ability to shoot using available light in low light conditions. Just last week I was shooting at 40m and getting remarkable results using Manual White Balance without even using a filter - way better results than you'd ever get with lights and/or with video cameras many, many thousands of pounds more expensive than a 7D. If you know how to film with it you can really get some remarkable results.

Cheers, Simon

I would be very interested to see your results.

Here is a quick example from the Red Sea. In this clip you see quick video shots from a single dive at various depths, starting from 30 meters deep, and progressing to 5 meters. At all depths I set manually the white balance. As you can see at 30 meteres everything is deep blue, but the light isn't actually low, it it very bright, it juts happens to be very bright blue light.


Canon 7d, Tokina 10-17mm fisheye, Canon EF-S 60mm Macro, Sigma 10-17mm OS HSM, Ikelite housing,
2x Ikelite ds-161 strobes with Stix 12"+12" arms with floats.
Canon ixus 980is in Canon housing.
Olympus c8080wz in Olympus housing.
website www.leiman.fi.

#12 Alex_Mustard

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Posted 23 January 2011 - 06:48 PM

On normal dives I don't, but I have shot some video on the dives I have been doing recently on Grand Cayman's new wreck the Kittiwake. I helped to shoot the video of the wreck on this page with the Nikon D7000:
http://www.divemagazine.co.uk/

The footage looked fantastic when projected on the big screen. I have also found it useful as a teaching aid and have taken a few clips of the folks on my workshops - to help them understand aspects of still photography technique.

Alex

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#13 Nick Hope

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Posted 23 January 2011 - 08:46 PM

Here is a quick example from the Red Sea. In this clip you see quick video shots from a single dive at various depths, starting from 30 meters deep, and progressing to 5 meters. At all depths I set manually the white balance. As you can see at 30 meteres everything is deep blue, but the light isn't actually low, it it very bright, it juts happens to be very bright blue light.

What exactly do you mean by "set manually the white balance"? The first 30 seconds of that video is very very blue. The final 30 seconds has the nicest balance (to my eyes).

#14 ileiman

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Posted 23 January 2011 - 11:16 PM

What exactly do you mean by "set manually the white balance"? The first 30 seconds of that video is very very blue. The final 30 seconds has the nicest balance (to my eyes).

On Canon 7D you first take a picture of something white in RAW format, I use a white writing slate.
You then select from the menu "Custom WB" and select that picture, press SET. Now you have a custom White Balance setting that should work for the situation where you took that reference picture.
Then press WB, and select custom. The more "usual" setting is WB = Auto.
But custom-WB isn't going to do miracles for anything shot at great depths with only available light.

On that video the first 30 seconds are from the deep and early in the morning, where there the very strong rising sun light above the Red Sea has been filtered and only blue remains, there is a trace of red there, but it is so weak that even setting custom WB in attempt to compensate that, doesn't help much for video. If you look at color histograms from RAW images taken from that depth, you can see that the blue light is almost 1000x stronger than red. At noon you get more red color to the deep, and the red-blue balance gets better, maybe around 1:200.

The latter parts of the video are from 15, 10 and 5 meters, where the red light is so much stronger that setting custom WB starts to work really well. In fact you might get too red images, if you don't set the WB frequently enough, as the intensity of red changes rapidly on each meter of depth.

If you take still images in RAW, you can get much better results from available light shots at post-processing than shooting JPG (even with custom-WB), and you get better results than with video as well.
For RAW images, setting custom-WB has no effect as such, since you balance the colors in post-processing. Canon 7D CR2 file stores the full 14 bits (4096 values of intensity) from the image sensor, and the color transformation from the Bayer mosaic is calculated in post-processing. A JPG and video file only stores 8-bit (256 values) data, where the color transformation has been calculated on-the-fly by the camera based on the WB setting (on in WB=Auto mode based on what the camera's WB algorithm has calculated).
Canon 7d, Tokina 10-17mm fisheye, Canon EF-S 60mm Macro, Sigma 10-17mm OS HSM, Ikelite housing,
2x Ikelite ds-161 strobes with Stix 12"+12" arms with floats.
Canon ixus 980is in Canon housing.
Olympus c8080wz in Olympus housing.
website www.leiman.fi.

#15 Elainew

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Posted 23 January 2011 - 11:44 PM

Occasionally with the 7D just for fun. But the lack of autofocus annoys me greatly and can be limiting.

#16 SimonSpear

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 02:07 AM

Ok I've just uploaded a few random examples of shots from different depths that I filmed last week. Everything was shot on a 7D using a Hugyfot housing, dome and 10-22mm EFS lens. All of these clips are straight out of the camera with no colour correction or any other modification and they were all shot without using a filter.



The shot at 30m is from the sea bed at the Salem and the 35+m shot is the bow of the Rosalie. For anyone who has dived the Rosalie you'll know how dark the dive can sometimes be, so I'm very happy with these results. Normally with most cameras I find it easy to WB off the surface or sun, but with the 7D I was getting a green colour cast using this method so all shots were WB using either the palm of my hand or sand.

Cheers, Simon

#17 Davide DB

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 10:09 AM

Ok I've just uploaded a few random examples of shots from different depths that I filmed last week. Everything was shot on a 7D using a Hugyfot housing, dome and 10-22mm EFS lens. All of these clips are straight out of the camera with no colour correction or any other modification and they were all shot without using a filter.


Simon,
Are you using the 7D full manual?
Can be used in exposure priority?

bye

Andrea
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#18 SimonSpear

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 11:09 AM

Hi Andrea

Yes, everything was shot in full manual. When shooting video you can't change shutter speed (fixed at either 1/50 PAL or 1/60 NTSC) and you only have 2 usable settings for ISO (either 160 or 320) then all you have to adjust is aperture, so it is very easy to shoot in manual mode.

Cheers, Simon

#19 ileiman

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 11:29 AM

Ok I've just uploaded a few random examples of shots from different depths that I filmed last week. Everything was shot on a 7D using a Hugyfot housing, dome and 10-22mm EFS lens. All of these clips are straight out of the camera with no colour correction or any other modification and they were all shot without using a filter.

The shot at 30m is from the sea bed at the Salem and the 35+m shot is the bow of the Rosalie. For anyone who has dived the Rosalie you'll know how dark the dive can sometimes be, so I'm very happy with these results. Normally with most cameras I find it easy to WB off the surface or sun, but with the 7D I was getting a green colour cast using this method so all shots were WB using either the palm of my hand or sand.

Cheers, Simon

Thanks for sharing, looks good.
Canon 7d, Tokina 10-17mm fisheye, Canon EF-S 60mm Macro, Sigma 10-17mm OS HSM, Ikelite housing,
2x Ikelite ds-161 strobes with Stix 12"+12" arms with floats.
Canon ixus 980is in Canon housing.
Olympus c8080wz in Olympus housing.
website www.leiman.fi.

#20 Nick Hope

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 10:45 PM

Good stuff Simon. So is the 7D now your preferred choice over your V1? Did you have any focussing difficulties? Any footage unusable due to being out of focus? How much "better" does your 7D footage look compared to your V1 footage (apologies for vague question)?