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Aquatica AD7000 and Inon Z-240 with fiberoptic, Settings?


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#1 Anders Nyberg

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 01:32 AM

Hi
I am totally new in terms of TTL/Manual via fiber optics, the thing is that I think one of the lightning strikes less than the other, have the same settings on both.
If you look at the shadow, it is sharply to the right and it is so in all images (both via TTL and Manual)

Does anyone have any tips on good settings for the camera and flash, Macro and wide angle

My equipment:
Nikon D7000
Aquatica AD7000
Inon Z-240 x2
Fiberoptic

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Edited by Anders Nyberg, 27 August 2011 - 01:33 AM.


#2 tdpriest

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 03:05 AM

I guess that you have the right-side strobe nearer to the subject than the left. You may also have the left-side strobe aimed behind the right. Your buddy is too well lit for both strobes to have been aimed at the fish.

I try to have symmetrically positioned strobes then dial down the power on one by 1-1.5 stops. I've noticed my strobe arms creeping into other positions after a while, particularly if I keep adjusting them from shot to shot.

Tim

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#3 Anders Nyberg

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 11:14 PM

Hi
Should like to add: even if I have the right strobe further back so it is stronger than the left one.., if I switch side of the strobes, than the left is stronger so one of the strobes are much more stronger :B):

#4 Viz'art

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 12:30 PM

Anders, you might have a strobe that is not adjusted properly or worse, that is defective, do you have access to a flash meter? it would be worth taking a reading off each strobe to compare.

Jean Bruneau 

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#5 eyu

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 12:43 PM

I wonder if the advanced canceling circuit is disabled on the left strobe?

Nikon D800E, Subal ND800, Inon Z240, ULCS & Carbon Arms


#6 Anders Nyberg

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 01:20 PM

Advanced caceling circiuit is the same on both strobes, check!!

#7 Anders Nyberg

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 01:30 PM

Anders, you might have a strobe that is not adjusted properly or worse, that is defective, do you have access to a flash meter? it would be worth taking a reading off each strobe to compare.



I'm afraid that Jean is right in this matter, my suspicion is verified, unfortunately, I have no light meter, but how do I check the strobe in this case??
I think I've got water into the electric contect a while ago, could that have any affect?? I mean that the electric contact is shielded with silicone or rubber??

/Anders

#8 JohnLiddiard

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 09:00 PM

I'm afraid that Jean is right in this matter, my suspicion is verified, unfortunately, I have no light meter, but how do I check the strobe in this case??
I think I've got water into the electric contect a while ago, could that have any affect?? I mean that the electric contact is shielded with silicone or rubber??

/Anders

Swap the left and right over. Keep everything else the same. See if the effect reverses.
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#9 ChrigelKarrer

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 10:47 PM

The Z-240 and the D7000 work well together being optically triggered.
You may also had:
- different settings of the power dial or exposure mode
- 1 flash had the 1/4 EV compensation switch on while the other not

Do some tests in the night on land (or in a pool) to verify the power output of both strobes.
You can put a white sheet about 10/20/30 ft away and take pictures in the night, this will show
you the power output without a strobe meter.

Chris

Edited by ChrigelKarrer, 30 August 2011 - 10:48 PM.

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#10 Viz'art

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Posted 31 August 2011 - 03:20 AM

Anders, if you do not have a light meter, then I would suggest setting up in a room, put a middle tone subject about 1.5 meter away with the background at about 2 meters, to check TTL (& S-TTL) take one strobe at a time and take pictures at 1 stop interval, the exposure should remain fairly constant (do give the strobe time to recycle properly), swap to the other strobe and do the test, at this point, if both strobe are in good shape, then result should be faily similar (might want to comape histograms), if one strobe is defective (or wrongly set up) then exposure will be all over the place. for good measure, if you have a Nikon flash, do the test with it as well so you have a reference set of images, Nikon's TTL is notoriously precise.

Just an idea I had, there is a magnet switch on the Z240 that manages the pre flash, are they both on the same position?

Jean Bruneau 

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Aquatica Pro Digital housings for D-800, Sigma 8mm & 15mm Fisheye, Nikon AF 14MM, AF 17-35mm, AF 20MM, AF 60MM, AF 105MM, 4x Ikelite Ds 160, and TLC arms exclusively