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Bit confused on mechanics of strobes

ysd2 strobe d850 ttl flash d850 ttl ysd2 ttl

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#1 maxnichols24

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Posted 24 May 2018 - 03:18 PM

How exactly does a strobe setup work? I would like to purchase a Sea & Sea YS-D2 to go with my D850 and (prospectively) a Nauticam housing. The D850 doesn't have a built-in flash, so I would just hook up the YS-D2 to the D850? I want to use TTL, and would I need a TTL converter for this setup?



#2 TimG

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Posted 24 May 2018 - 09:35 PM

Hi

 

It depends on how you want to initiate the strobes firing. There are two main options: electric through the camera hot shoe which is connected, via the camera bulkhead(s) to sync cables which, in turn, are connected to the strobes. This is the "traditional" way. And then there are fibre optic links - which are the emerging trend.

 

There should be no problem using the electrical connection for your D850/Nauticam/YS-D2 system. It's a simple link of a hot shoe cable from your camera's hot shoe, through electrical bulkheads on the housing - to one or two sync cables leading to the strobes. Firing the camera shutter will send an electrical pulse through the various connections to the strobe. TTL can be possible depending on the various electronics compatibilities. This is a slightly complex field and I'll let others comment!

 

If you want to use fibre optics you would need to have some sort of initiator system inside the housing because, as you rightly identify, the D850 doesn't have a built-in flash to initiate the strobes. The system would comprise a hot shoe link from the D850 to the initiator board, LEDs leading from the board which would fit inside the housing against LED bulkheads; then fibre optic cables from the exterior of the housing LED bulkheads to the light-detecting sensor on the strobes.

 

When you press the D850 shutter the camera's hot shoe would activate and flash the LEDs on the initiator board which provide the flash of light through the bulkheads, down the fibre optic cables, leading to the strobes.

 

Pros and cons: electric -  doesn't need the initiator board - which can be quite expensive. You don't need a camera with a built-in flash. TTL possible. Cables prone to problems with salt getting on the small connecting pins. Can't be removed in-water. More fiddly.

Fibre - cables are cheap, easy to replace and can be connected and removed underwater - thus allowing interesting strobe placement. But needs an in-housing initiator whether a camera's built-in flash or an (expensive) initiator board. Connections tend to be more reliable.  TTL possible.

 

There are various initiator boards available. Nauticam have one for their housings and there is, eg, the Turtle system. I believe both would give you TTL with your YS-D2s.

 

(Pavel is the TTL/strobe electronic guru on Wetpixel!)

 

Hope this helps a bit and gives you some ideas. The connections are pretty straight-forward for either method. As I say, TTL is a bit more complex although, generally, doable with either system depending on your strobes. I switched from electronic to fibre optic about 5 years ago and would not go back.  Quick, easy and reliable - even though just moving from a D800 to a D500 I had to "invest" in an initiator board for my Subal housing. My initiator board (the Subal V3) gives me TTL with Inon Z240s. I'm pretty sure it would too with the YS-D2 strobes.


Tim
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Nikon D800 and D500, Nikkors 105mm and 16-35mm, Sigma 15mmFE, Tokina 10-17,  Subal housing

http://www.timsimages.uk
Latest images: http://www.shutterst...lery_id=1940957


#3 Pavel Kolpakov

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Posted 24 May 2018 - 10:12 PM

 I would like to purchase a Sea & Sea YS-D2 to go with my D850 and (prospectively) a Nauticam housing. The D850 doesn't have a built-in flash, so I would just hook up the YS-D2 to the D850? I want to use TTL, and would I need a TTL converter for this setup?

Hi,

If you really think about TTL, better buy Z-330 or Z-240.

Nauticam D850 housing is compatible with 2 variants of TTL-Converter: #11031-II UWTechnics and #26308 Nauticam. Both have the same functionality.

Also you need a pair of 613 core optical cables, -  #26216 Nauticam.

Yesterday i test Nikon D850 with #11031-II product and few different strobes, - TTL system worked very nice.


Edited by Pavel Kolpakov, 25 May 2018 - 12:46 PM.


#4 ChrisRoss

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Posted 25 May 2018 - 03:48 AM

Should also note that TTL will generally work well for macro shooting, on wide angle when there is a lot of water in the frame it can be hit and miss.  You are also talking about a single strobe?    A single strobe will often be OK on macro shots but for wide angle you would generally want two strobes.



#5 TimG

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Posted 25 May 2018 - 04:21 AM

Good thoughts from Pavel and Chris

 

I agree with Pavel and can heartily recommend the Inons. Z240s are no longer produced but you will find sales of them on the Wetpxiel Classifieds pages. They became something of a standard. I've had the Z240 for about 15 years in one guise or another (Z220 then Z240) and they have never once let me down. I've always found a way to TTL them either through the old Heinrichs Weikamp plug-in TTL module, or now, though the electronic wizardry of the Subal V3. Pavel suggests the Z330 or Z240 with the UWTechnics or Nauticam systems. He is The Man!

 

The Z330 is new and is the successor to the Z240. There are reviews on WP if you search round. I'm not sure how easy they are to get hold of at the moment.

 

On Chris' point on macro and WA TTL, I agree that it does work very well with macro. Being slightly, errr, lazy or maybe forgetful, I tend to leave the TTL on for WA too. Can't say I have ever noticed that the exposure is way off. But Chris is right that it isn't supposed to work as well with WA. Maybe I've just been lucky.


Tim
(PADI IDC Staff Instructor and former Dive Manager, KBR Lembeh Straits)
Nikon D800 and D500, Nikkors 105mm and 16-35mm, Sigma 15mmFE, Tokina 10-17,  Subal housing

http://www.timsimages.uk
Latest images: http://www.shutterst...lery_id=1940957


#6 ChrisRoss

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Posted 25 May 2018 - 01:39 PM

Probably depends on the camera as much as anything else as it's the camera making decisions about how long to keep the strobe going.    Manual is not that difficult though, if you are in really close for all your shots then flash exposure does not move around a lot.   If you are further away, get closer.  Agree on the Inon strobes, they have a reputation for reliability that S&S doesn't seem to have.  Any particular reason you want S&S?

 

Then of course you need to work what arms you want for the strobes.


Edited by ChrisRoss, 25 May 2018 - 01:41 PM.


#7 Fruitographer

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Posted 29 May 2018 - 08:19 AM

I agree that everyone is right on track by recommending the Non strobes over Sea & Sea. I purchased a brand new YSD2 strobe and used it for just over a year before the housing flooded and caused non-repairable damage. It will also over heat if used on full power for consecutive shots within a shorter period of time causing damage as well, which it even says in the manual. Since it was just past warranty they told me I was out of luck and I had to eat the $750. I had just paid for it. The battery compartment was completely dry and some how the actual electronic components flooded destroying the strobe. When sent in for repairs it took around 3 months just to find out they wouldn't do anything. Afterwards I found out that Sea & Sea was having the strobes built with very little quality control and were having major issues with many of their strobes. Stay away from Sea & Sea like the plague. They have horrible products and even worse customer care. Listen to everyone on this discussion and go with an Inon strobe instead. 







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