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RX100 Mk2 housing - Is Ikelite really that bad?


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#1 sinetwo

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Posted 21 March 2016 - 01:18 AM

Hi all,

 

I started out with a cheaper kit to try out underwater photography and unfortunately fell in love with it. Alas my current housing is not good enough, due to its controls. If the controls were fine, i'd still be using it! 

 

My setup is currently: 

* RX100 Mk 2

* Meikon housing (yes I know...)

* INON UCL 100 M67
* INON UWL-H100 28M67 Type 2
* Single YS DS-1 Strobe
* iDas tray system
 
I am looking for a better housing, but I fear the Nauticam housing is about double my budget for now. My options for the RX100ii seem to be:
* Nauticam
* Ikelike
 
I'd love to get the Nauticam, but the Ikelite is almost 1/3 of the price, but I've heard there's a lot of greif with this one as well. Does anyone have experience specifically with the RX100ii model? My main concerns are
* Zoom slipping and being stuck for the whole dive
* Wheel controls not touching the wheel unless you press them in (more mechanics, more failure)
* Shutter controls not being sensitive enough to do half press
* Clear casing, internal flash interfering with photo (easy fix is to add a bit of black on the inside, but still!)
 
What are your thoughts? Are there other housings the RX100ii is compatible with? E.g. are there any Rx100i housings i should be looking at?
 
Thanks!


#2 BlurredPixel

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Posted 22 March 2016 - 05:02 PM

Hello Sinetwo

 

I went for the aluminum RECSEA housing for my RX100-MkII. I have not water tested it yet but it looks promising. My setup is quite similar to yours. I have an inon uwl-100 28 AD and a close-up UCL-165AD. My stay is a 13 years old Sea&Sea multi-stay but I like it a lot with my even older Seaarm IV and Sea&Sea YS-DX90 strobe coupled with Heinrich adapter. Up to now my only complain about the WHS-RX100MkII is that the control for mode changing is not working well. It slips too much. It's not a big problem because the RX100 has a fantastic MR mode. To adapt my stay to the housing I bought the nice RECSEA tray adapter. RECSEA makes a great polycarbonate housing for about the same price of the Ikelite. So this may be an option to consider.

 

I've upgraded to the RX100MkII from a Powershot S80. I've selected the MkII over the the MkIII or MkIV because of the 28mm eq wide lens that was a nice match to my INON UWL-100028D lens.

 

I'm eager to hear your comments and words of wisdom about the underwater usage of the RX100MkII and INON lenses.

 

Clément



#3 hellhole

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Posted 22 March 2016 - 06:20 PM

Did u press the mode dial down? It can be raise and lowered....

#4 BlurredPixel

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Posted 22 March 2016 - 07:29 PM

Do you mean on the RX100? I know that the housing control could be raised and lowered but when it is lowered I can turn the dial only when pressing very hard on the control while twisting it. I tried cleaning the contact O-ring but it doesn't helped. Anyway it made me realized that using the MR mode is far more convinient than playing with the dial control. I do most of my shooting in manual mode with strobe but I programmed the MR2 to the A mode for ambient light with continous shooting and it's really fast to switch to it pressing MENU, select, right and select and everything is ready for any passing-by whaleshark! I programmed MR3 to the S mode.



#5 hellhole

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Posted 22 March 2016 - 09:01 PM

I meant the housing. Yes. That is what I meant.
Glad u managed to work around it. I never had much problem with it. But I am glad to hear about your workaround

#6 seaworm1982

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Posted 23 March 2016 - 02:26 AM

I bought Nauticam for my G16 and yes lots of $$$ involved but you get what you paid for.... All I can say is Nauticam is build like a tank!!! I was shocked on how well built it was. You can say with cheap housings but in the long ran better housing are the way to go.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

#7 sinetwo

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Posted 23 March 2016 - 02:39 AM

I decided to bite the bullet, and an expensive bullet at that.
 
I have now ordered the Naughtycam RX100ii.
 
Unfortunately due to my bad experience with the Meikon (what would you expect for £80?), I don't want to make the same mistake with the Ikelite. I've heard their mechanisms are quite poor, so paying a whopping £350+ for another poor housing is ridiculous. Although the Naughtycam is incredibly expensive, I expect this to be my one and only housing.
 
This paired with, INON UCL 100 M67 and INON UWL-H100 28M67 Type 2 should last me some time!
 
I'll let you guys know how it works out in a month.


#8 BlurredPixel

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Posted 23 March 2016 - 07:40 AM

Congratulations Sinetwo for your purchase.

 

Have you bought a new stay too? The Nauticam housing requires two screws, I don't know if it will work well if you use only one?  You may consider the RECSEA ADT-1S tray adapter. It is really well built. Building your own adapter may also be an option if your good working with metal.

 

I also considered the Nauticam housing but I finally selected the RECSEA for it's big front wheel control and the back wheel that works exactly like the RX100MkII's. One other thing was that I wasn't 100% sure that using the M67 with a 28AD adapter would cause some vigneting with my UWL-100 28AD and RECSEA had a 28AD adapter direct for the housing. Unfortunately this adapter has a small screw that impair a bit using the front wheel. So I decided to buy a cheap M67-28AD adapter to see if the vigneting was acceptable and in fact there was none! So the only problem I see right now with this housing is the dial mode control but it may eventually works fine underwater with the pressure, anyway as I said I will use the MR mode option that will work fine by setting the MENU START option behavior to Previous.

 

What were your main complains about the Meikon housing? How did you like working with the RX100MkII underwater? I haven't tried mine yet underwater and I wonder how I will manage to work in manual mode with the flash not being manual I still have some experimentation to do.



#9 sinetwo

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Posted 23 March 2016 - 08:18 AM

Hi there,

 

I'll try to answer your Qs below in Bold

Congratulations Sinetwo for your purchase.

 

Have you bought a new stay too? The Nauticam housing requires two screws, I don't know if it will work well if you use only one?  You may consider the RECSEA ADT-1S tray adapter. It is really well built. Building your own adapter may also be an option if your good working with metal.

 

Not sure what Stay is, but I've ordered 2 1/4" mount screws to go into the housing and through the i-Das tray system. This should be sufficient.

 

I also considered the Nauticam housing but I finally selected the RECSEA for it's big front wheel control and the back wheel that works exactly like the RX100MkII's. One other thing was that I wasn't 100% sure that using the M67 with a 28AD adapter would cause some vigneting with my UWL-100 28AD and RECSEA had a 28AD adapter direct for the housing. Unfortunately this adapter has a small screw that impair a bit using the front wheel. So I decided to buy a cheap M67-28AD adapter to see if the vigneting was acceptable and in fact there was none! So the only problem I see right now with this housing is the dial mode control but it may eventually works fine underwater with the pressure, anyway as I said I will use the MR mode option that will work fine by setting the MENU START option behavior to Previous.

 

From what I've seen, you've got control over both the front and back wheels on the Naughtycam. This is imperative for Macro with the RX100ii because of focus peaking in the display with static subjects. Without fine control over the front dial for super macro, you rely on 1) focus luck and/or 2) focus light.

 

What were your main complains about the Meikon housing? 

 

Main complaints about the Meikon housing can be seen on a separate thread: http://wetpixel.com/...=54929&p=360919

 

In summary they were:

* shutter button doesn't line up properly (manual horrendous cardboard fix)

* flash diffuser is too far behind the dome, so you get about 1/4 of the image illuminated (top left) and 3/4 dark, so absolutely no use at all, you HAVE to use an external strobe.

* when using an external strobe, see through casing lets light through, so this interferes with your images, particularly macro

* missing a dial for the 'round the lens' adjustment control, which is annoying as you have a bit less control with ISO/APT/SHUT depending on how you've set your camera up.

 

How did you like working with the RX100MkII underwater? I haven't tried mine yet underwater and I wonder how I will manage to work in manual mode with the flash not being manual I still have some experimentation to do.

 

If you've got the Recsea, why would you use your Meikon, out of curiosity? The RX100ii is good underwater, but you must practice with it on land., ideally in a darkish room to simulate dark environments, focusing flash effect, focus etc. I shoot strictly manual, so for me, I need to have good access to all settings such as Shutter, Ap, Iso, etc. You can configure the RX100ii to do what you want on the various buttons, but you can't assign ANYTHING to ANY button, which is why Meikon's lack of a front dial is severely annoying. You can switch to aperture or shutter and then use the back buttons to swtich it, but in the heat of the moment, you really don't have time to be playing around.

 

Overall the Meikon kit was good for a beginner, but it's so difficult to do half presses, and sometimes the controls get stuck and overall it's just a bad experience when you have 10 seconds to take a picture of that elusive giant frogfish before a really annoying dive master creeps up on you and takes your spot. Yes, this happened, and no, I didn't get it. That frogfish was the size of a medium ball, and had I had a naughtycam, i'd have that shot :(



#10 BlurredPixel

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Posted 23 March 2016 - 03:03 PM

Thank you Sinetwo for answering my questions. I didn't realized that your iDAS stay has these nice slots, so the screws will do the job! My interest in the Meikon housing problems you had was simply curiosity. I hope you'll have a chance to see an other giant frogfish with your Nauticam housing in hands!



#11 sinetwo

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Posted 21 June 2016 - 09:15 AM

Thank you Sinetwo for answering my questions. I didn't realized that your iDAS stay has these nice slots, so the screws will do the job! My interest in the Meikon housing problems you had was simply curiosity. I hope you'll have a chance to see an other giant frogfish with your Nauticam housing in hands!

I did indeed get another giant frogfish on my bali trip :)

 

I'll be processing the pictures soon. Did you manage to use yours yet? I've got a few things I'd point out from my dive trip for Macro:

 

Pre req: Use a minimum of a +10 diopter. I used an INON UCL-100

1. Use a snoot for macro if you can, it helps loads! Ideally with a lighting assistant that can help you with the strobe's built in focus light

2. Use F8 - F11, unless you want bokeh

3. Use focus peaking with medium or low sensitivity, and "opposite" color of your subject. Red subject, use green, yellow subject, use red etc.

4. Once you have zoomed all the way in, lock the focus by doing a half press, then rock slowly back or forth to get the area you want in focus, judging by the focus peaking

5. If you use DMF properly, and use the front dial to manually focus, then you would really need a tripod. Because the adjustments are so extremely minute, any movement whilst holding the camera would cancel out your focusing, so in my opinion, it's pointless. But that may just be me.



#12 riksub

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Posted 23 October 2018 - 10:05 AM

I bought a Recsea polycarbonate housing...and I'm very disappointed with it. Any time few drops entered from the shutter button! Even under warranty and sended back to factory they didn't solve my problem and my housing is unusable. I don't recommend that housing at all.