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Nauticam GH5 your port and lens. Why?

Nauticam gh5 GH5 port GH5 lens GH5

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#1 gearbow_36218

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Posted 22 March 2019 - 09:16 AM

Please help me with some of the lens port options for video the GH5 in Nauticam housing and maybe why you chose this option. 

 

Did you start with this option?  What are some of the limitations of your old lens and why you switched?

 

What  are your favorite go to settings underwater for video?

 

 

My current system Is the GH5 in Nauticam Housing. 

 

I like to shoot as wide as possible so i can get as close to my subject as possible.   Reef, turtles, schooling fish. I'm told the less water between your subject the better the image.

 

I'm told for video i should keep a shutter speed twice that of the frames per second.  I like to shoot in 60fps with the GH5 for the most part as i like the option to slow footage down.

 

I have the Olympus M. Zuiko Pro f 2.8 7-14mm -  (14mm-28mm equivilant)  p1070426.jpg?w=768&h=576Why I chose twh                       

 

 

 

-- Why I chose over the Panasonic 7-14 -  It is constant aperture, and i was told it is the best in image quality and will perform better in any given f-stop for low light and zooming in the 7-14mm my f-stop will not change?  Since I never shoot video anywhere close to 2.8 should i care?   Cons of this lens is it is Big, Heavy  and expensive.    Also does not have image stabilization. 

 

 

 

 

It has a lens hood that does not come off.  This means that  in order for the housing to fit the Nauticam  housing i need 180mm glass dome (expensive)  a spacer (expensive).

 

debdaae2b102fe892ce2e3b84699c326--fe-son

 

 

 

  That said,  I chose it over the Panisonic version as basically I was told this is the best lens for image quality over the Panisonic 7-14mm and  if i get everything right for settings and the reef life lets me get close enough i can get wonderful images.  Its figuring the settings and the white balance  that  can be the challenge.  

 

I have the option to zoom to 14mm (28mm equivalent)  although that is  not much of a zoom i find and when i do see something a little bit smaller and i want to focus in on that subject there is not much to work with in my opinion.  

 

I started  shooting at about F8 and still found my edges soft.  What i have found is I have to shoot at about f11 mostly to avoid the distortion and make my corners more square.  I leave my shutter at 179d as I shoot at 60fps then just play with Iso and the f-stop.  I manual white balance on my hand or some grey coral and the sand if nothing else is available.   I have auto focus turned off and use focus assist with back button focus mapped to the AF lock button 

 

Panasonic-GH5-Back-Buttons.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

FOR MACRO ....  I went with the Olympus M. Zuiko Digital ED 60mm f-2.8 Macro lens with The N85  macro-port 65 for this lens.   Again with the Olympus lens was told is better image quality.

 

This one i found a little confusing especially the dial on the side . olympus-60mm-macro-1_1347981701.jpg

 

 

 

 I see that i currently have it on the 0.19-0.4 setting.  It has been almost a year since i have shot with this.  I assumed i would shoot at 1:1 not sure why i had it on this setting.  can you guys help me out with how and what subject your shooting with this lens? 

 

 

 

I am thinking about other lenses port options.  Specifically to maybe address the sharp square corner issue  and/or the fact that  you're stuck shooting really wide angle or really small stuff.  I knew that going in but there is some other lenses out there and for video what do you guys have to say? 



#2 Interceptor121

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Posted 22 March 2019 - 10:30 AM

I use the GH5 for stills and video. For video I only use the Macro 35 port and then WWL-1 for wide angle, bare port for close up work and close up lenses for macro. All with the Panasonic 14-42mm. The camera ex tele zoom mode means I do not need to use the 60mm in 95% of situations

 

I also have the 4.33 dome for the Panasonic 8mm and 30 mini extension for the Olympus 60mm I use those two lenses for still images. Fisheye never for video and Olympus only if I had to do some special shot of something super micro scopic


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#3 ChrisRoss

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Posted 22 March 2019 - 06:05 PM

This post may be relevant:  http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=63783 in here Phil Rudin states that the corners are much better using the Zen 200mm dome compared to the 170/180mm domes, though unfortunately that dome appears to be discontinued.  This seems plausible to me as one day i trilalled my Panasonic 7-14 to find the entrance pupil location and as far as I can figure it appears to be 20-25mm forward of the optimal position when using the Zen DP-170 typeII.  A further check with a little trigonometry revealed it was positioned forward to prevent vignetting in the 170mm dome.  This is relatively easy to check.... the radius of curvature of the Zen DP-170 is 110mm , 110mm measured from the dome is 15mm from the port bayonet end and there is no way the entrance pupil is that far back.

 

If you do more trig , you can calculate the height of the sphere segment for the 170mm dome and the 200mm dome, which both have a 110mm radius of curvature and you will calculate h=40mm for the 170mm dome and h=64mm for the 200mm dome, so with the same extension the 200mm dome is 24mm further forward from the lens which should place the entrance pupil just about right on the radius of curvature of the dome, which would  explain better corners with the 200mm dome.  Both domes are the same radius, however so the virtual image is the same radius, but it is further away by the difference in dome segment height making it easier to focus upon.  This is for the ZEN 170 vs the 200mm dome, seems you have the Nauticam 180mm dome which may be slightly different and the location of the entrance pupil for the Oly 7-14 will be different and you would have to calculate that for your self, but I doubt the entrance pupil is way at the back of the lens. 

 

It seems manufacturers pick a compromise between vignetting and positioning of the entrance pupil, probably on the basis corners are good enough and the situation rapidly improves once you zoom a little as you are no longer trying to get the very far edges of the virtual image in focus.  This seems essential on the partial hemisphere domes in the 170-180mm size range as you need to push the lens far enough forward to see over the edge of the dome.  As to the original problem you may find the corners improve by zooming in to 8-9mm or so and reserving 7-8mm for blue water subjects where the corners are water?

 

On the 60mm macro lens, the dial is there to help with AF keeping it within a certain range.  The 1:1 setting is spring loaded and you use it to send the lens to 1:1 focus and have AF take over from there.  MF is really not practical due to the gearing on the focus dial being so high, you really need multiple spins on the housing focus knob to see any change at all in focus.  The only approach is AF on back button focus then use a Fn button to activate zebras and rock back and forth to get/hold focus, DOF is very shallow at 1:1 so absolute steadiness in needed to keep focus where you want it and any sort of surge complicates matters more as there's no way to keep up with it.  This tends to mean you need to back off for a wider view and greater DOF.  I ended up buying the 30mm macro as most subjects I shoot require 1:2 or less magnification - nothing magical about 1:1 just use the magnification needed to frame your critter.  To explain the 30mm macro will do 1:1 but the subject is too close to the port, maybe 10-20mm from the glass.  I'll swap back and forth depending on the dive site and what I expect to find.   Keep in mind I shoot stills so just need to squeeze the shutter at the right moment, video needs to keep the subject framed for many seconds without losing focus making it even more challenging. 

 

I'm not sure what you are shooting in the way of macro, if it's not super small the 30mm may be easier to handle and certainly snaps to focus better on my EM-1 MkII.  I have the Panasonic 30mm macro.



#4 Architeuthis

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Posted 22 March 2019 - 11:10 PM

This post may be relevant:  http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=63783 in here Phil Rudin states that the corners are much better using the Zen 200mm dome compared to the 170/180mm domes, though unfortunately that dome appears to be discontinued. 

 

There is a 200mm domeport available in Europe and US from Athena, see e.g.: https://www.unterwas...v-nauticam.html

 

It seems to me that this is a substitute for the Zen DP200. Does anyone know the dimensions of the Athena port (radius etc.) and whether it is really identical?

 

Wolfgang



#5 Interceptor121

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Posted 23 March 2019 - 02:09 AM

There is an article on UWP magazine issue 99

 

You will see that the WWL-1 and WACP beat any dome of any size even with a mediocre zoom lens. And the wider field of view lets you get close to the subjects

 

Look at this video and see if the barrel distortion bothers you or not as you can see the bottom

https://vimeo.com/322862312

 

You can spend a lot of time and money and end up with really large pieces of equipment when you do not really need to and you can get a fully stabilised set up that will also cost you less once you add lens domes etc

 

On the macro side instead the 60mm for me is not adequate unless you want to produce those kind of slideshow videos of nudibranches or some microscopic stuff in Lembeh or similar. For me those videos can be artistic but most times are flat boring and you would be better off with a slideshow of more powerful still images


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#6 ChrisRoss

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Posted 23 March 2019 - 04:46 AM

 

There is a 200mm domeport available in Europe and US from Athena, see e.g.: https://www.unterwas...v-nauticam.html

 

It seems to me that this is a substitute for the Zen DP200. Does anyone know the dimensions of the Athena port (radius etc.) and whether it is really identical?

 

Wolfgang

The port seems to be a full hemisphere Based on a diameter of 220mm and segment height of 108mm (per the specs given) the radius of curvature is 110mm and the lens would just protrude into the dome, you would be on your own calculating the extension required as there appears to be very little info on the dome apart from stated Diameter and height, But it's not clear if that's overall diameter and height or the glass dome dimension.



#7 Architeuthis

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Posted 23 March 2019 - 08:49 AM

The port seems to be a full hemisphere Based on a diameter of 220mm and segment height of 108mm (per the specs given) the radius of curvature is 110mm and the lens would just protrude into the dome, you would be on your own calculating the extension required as there appears to be very little info on the dome apart from stated Diameter and height, But it's not clear if that's overall diameter and height or the glass dome dimension.

 

when the radius of the Athena is 110mm (I could not find this information) it is practically identical to the Zen DP200, but a little less than a full hemisphere (It may well be that the glas hemispheres are all made by the same company and Nauticam, Zen etc. buy from them and but them into a mounting - very unlikely that they produce the glass hemispheres by themselves). The Athena port can be delivered with different mounts (probably Nauticam N120 also), so the required extension is identical to Zen DP-200 (I do not remember now, but I am sure Phil posted the length somewhere) - so maybe I go for it (but rectilinear WW does not have very high priority for me)...

 

Wolfgang


Edited by Architeuthis, 23 March 2019 - 09:03 AM.


#8 ChrisRoss

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Posted 23 March 2019 - 06:35 PM

I could find no information on this topic so I used the dimensions provided (diameter x height) to calculate the radius, it's approximate but indicates a full hemisphere or close to that.  You really need to have the port in hand to make some estimates.  It's not quite the same beast because the Zen dome is partial hemishere and this one is near full.  On the Zen domes the height of the segment is 40mm for the DP170 and 64mm for the DP-200 and it appears to be 108mm for this dome, so you would need to pull the lens back further in dome, I am thinking 35-40mm more extension to get the entrance pupil in the right spot.  But you would need to physically measure the dome height and diameter to confirm this! 

 

The difference is the centre of the radius of curvature is well back inside the extension for the Zen domes and right at the base of the dome for the Athena.


Edited by ChrisRoss, 23 March 2019 - 06:36 PM.


#9 gearbow_36218

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 07:27 PM

I did what one guy said and zoomed in slightly. That's working pretty good. I'm really thinking of going interceptors route and using his lens port option. Maybe even order it and try to get it down here in Mexico before i leave.

#10 gearbow_36218

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 10:26 AM

I use the GH5 for stills and video. For video I only use the Macro 35 port and then WWL-1 for wide angle, bare port for close up work and close up lenses for macro. All with the Panasonic 14-42mm. The camera ex tele zoom mode means I do not need to use the 60mm in 95% of situations

 

I also have the 4.33 dome for the Panasonic 8mm and 30 mini extension for the Olympus 60mm I use those two lenses for still images. Fisheye never for video and Olympus only if I had to do some special shot of something super micro scopic

 

 

I checked on this today and Backscatter said this lens is discontinued.  He is checking to see if Nauticam supports a focus gear for the new lens.   You use another flip option with the 14-42mm for macro?  



#11 Interceptor121

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 10:36 AM

 

 

I checked on this today and Backscatter said this lens is discontinued.  He is checking to see if Nauticam supports a focus gear for the new lens.   You use another flip option with the 14-42mm for macro?  

 

Which lens is discontinued?

 

https://shop.panason...-FS1442AKA.html $249.99

 

https://www.nauticam...asph-mega-o-i-s gear


Edited by Interceptor121, 16 April 2019 - 10:54 AM.

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#12 gearbow_36218

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 10:39 AM

Hey guys I was shooting the last couple of days and switched from 4k 60fps 150 mbits 8 bit color to 4k 24fps  10 bit 400mbits a second.  This allowed me to lower shutter speed from 120 to 60 allowing more light and allowed me to bring up my F stop on the deep dives.   On shallow dives  even on cloudy day I can keep the ISO anywhere between 200-800 and F stop between 11 and 16.  This is helping me with corner detail.  A lot of ambient light and i can still shoot with 60 fps and higher shutter but lowering my frames per second and lowering my shutter was a option i never explored until now. 



#13 gearbow_36218

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 11:09 AM

 

Which lens is discontinued?

 

https://shop.panason...-FS1442AKA.html $249.99

 

https://www.nauticam...asph-mega-o-i-s gear

 

 

Thank you I sent them those links. 



#14 gearbow_36218

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 11:12 AM

Hey they sent me this and said it uses the same FocusGear.  What you think Interceptor?   https://www.backscat...Power-Zoom-Lens



#15 gearbow_36218

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 11:27 AM

 

Which lens is discontinued?

 

https://shop.panason...-FS1442AKA.html $249.99

 

https://www.nauticam...asph-mega-o-i-s gear

 

 

Hey they sent me this and said it uses the same FocusGear.  What you think Interceptor?   https://www.backscat...Power-Zoom-Lens



#16 gearbow_36218

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 11:37 AM

Hmm.... i'm currently reading this:

 

Macro 

Macro performance isn't exceptional in this lens, offering just 0.17x magnification. Close-focusing distance depends on the focal length used: between 14-20mm the minimum distance is 20 cm (around 8 inches); between 21-42mm the minimum distance is 30cm (around 12 inches).

 

From this website:

 

https://www.imaging-...ario-pz/review/



#17 Interceptor121

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 11:46 AM

I do not use the power zoom lens because it does not leverage dual IS on the GH5 body. The PZ has a nice smooth zooming action but the 14-42MKII is sharper this is the lens I use and I have had them both I sold the PZ. If you had a BMPCC 4K or a GH5s with no stabilization than maybe the PZ is better

 

In terms of macro it is not a macro lens you need to use diopters 

 

https://interceptor1...-panasonic-gh5/

 

Once you have the right wet lenses most is covered maybe you need a 60mm for specific situations where you either need the working distance or have a super tiny target


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#18 gearbow_36218

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 12:17 PM

I do not use the power zoom lens because it does not leverage dual IS on the GH5 body. The PZ has a nice smooth zooming action but the 14-42MKII is sharper this is the lens I use and I have had them both I sold the PZ. If you had a BMPCC 4K or a GH5s with no stabilization than maybe the PZ is better

 

In terms of macro it is not a macro lens you need to use diopters 

 

https://interceptor1...-panasonic-gh5/

 

Once you have the right wet lenses most is covered maybe you need a 60mm for specific situations where you either need the working distance or have a super tiny target

 

 

So you are familiar with this power zoom and it is not compatible with the in body GH5 image stabilization?  Meaning they don't work together?   

 

Yeah,  I already have the OLY 60mm M.Zukio.



#19 gearbow_36218

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 03:56 PM

I do not use the power zoom lens because it does not leverage dual IS on the GH5 body. The PZ has a nice smooth zooming action but the 14-42MKII is sharper this is the lens I use and I have had them both I sold the PZ. If you had a BMPCC 4K or a GH5s with no stabilization than maybe the PZ is better

 

In terms of macro it is not a macro lens you need to use diopters 

 

https://interceptor1...-panasonic-gh5/

 

Once you have the right wet lenses most is covered maybe you need a 60mm for specific situations where you either need the working distance or have a super tiny target

 

 

 

I just spent time reading UWP issue 99 and see what you mean.  In your opinion the lens you use with the WWL-1 is the best option?  



#20 gearbow_36218

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 05:35 PM

I've just sent a note to my guys where i get my camera gear.........  Here is what I wrote.  

 

 I seam to be getting some conflicting info.  I would appreciate your expert opinion but would like it if you could take a look at this Underwater Photographer issue.  Specifically the article about  WACP but it talks about TGhe WWL-1 as well..   
 
In regards to the power zoom https://www.backscat...Power-Zoom-Lens, i hear that it will not work in conjunction  GH5 body stabilization and that the other lens does - .    

 

ps-h-ps14042s_1.jpg
Panasonic LUMIX G X Vario 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 ASPH I.S. Power Zoom Lens
www.backscatter.com
 

 

 
 
If that happens to be the case I think i would prefer the extra image stabilization of this lens 
 
 
 
The problem i have had in the cenote in particular is that I am not able to stop down the F stop in low light below 11 because  the corners are very soft.   What i plan on doing to help this with my dome port and lens is to bring my frame rate and shutter speed down to 25 and 50 respectively.  This is the same problem i have on the deep dive or  on cloudy days.   
 
Just yesterday and today i have brought the shutter down and noticed a lot better corners as I was able to keep F-11 to F13 still while keeping ISO between 200-1600.  Preferable 200-400
 
My preferred frame rate is still 60fps though as I really like the option of the slow motion in just about every situation but that 120 shutter eats a lot of light and i need to push ISO that adds grain or step down from F-11 and that adds soft corners.  
 
Anyway if you got a minute i would very much like your thoughts on that article.  If i am getting the gist of the article is that i would be able to step down in F-Stop possibly as low as 5.6 and still have decent corners and have the benefit of all that extra light. 
 
Not to mention the versatility of the lens because of all the focal options  when removing the WWL-1.     

Edited by gearbow_36218, 16 April 2019 - 05:36 PM.






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