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inon z240 pdf manual(type 4)


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#21 errbrr

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 12:00 AM

Just a note, 1 depends on the water temperature with 30 degrees being the top of the workable range. The strobes don't appear to shut down when overheating - they simply burn out the flash tubes and then you need a new strobe. If you are shooting in warm water (22 degrees +) I would allow time between full dumps for the strobe to cool down.

 

For no pre-flash press the button in. The strobe doesn't sense preflash or otherwise.



#22 bvanant

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Posted 06 November 2013 - 04:14 PM

While the manual suggests you wait 10 minutes after 10 full flashes (If the full flash has been activated 10 times in a row, allow the

product to rest for 10 minutes before attempting to use it again. Do not attempt to activate the flash on the unit with the flash

facing downward.
Do not look directly into the flash on the unit. ) I think this is more marketing hype than anything else, since facing it downward should make no difference either. 

Bill


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#23 Aliens

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Posted 06 November 2013 - 07:01 PM

Does this help?

http://www.uwphotogr...robes-inon-z240


Edited by Aliens, 06 November 2013 - 07:01 PM.


#24 marcw

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Posted 06 November 2013 - 07:07 PM

 
For no pre-flash press the button in. The strobe doesn't sense preflash or otherwise.


A test you can try is to take a picture into a mirror, if you see a giant flash in the picture you just took the settings for preflash are somewhat correct. Remember not to look in the mirror when the flash goes off.

#25 Aliens

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Posted 06 November 2013 - 07:11 PM

In answer to your TTL question you can indeed go below C to C-

 

http://www.inon.jp/t...adjustable.html



#26 diverdoug1

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Posted 06 November 2013 - 08:32 PM

Thanks for all the replies! After reading the manual, I am buying YS-D1's. :)

#27 tdpriest

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 05:51 AM

Thanks for all the replies! After reading the manual, I am buying YS-D1's. :)

 

Inon strobes are everything that the Inon manual isn't.

 

I suspect that Americans find Ikelite strobes comforting, but to me they just seem awkward.



#28 diverdoug1

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 09:41 AM

Yes Tim, the Ikelite strobes have left me cold..  That is why I am switching to the Sea&Sea YS-D1's.  I appreciate all the info you shared with me about your z240's while we were in Lembeh.  I was initially put off by the D1 manual requiring a cool down period after 10 full power flashes, but I see that the Inon's have a similar requirement.  The D1 won me over with it's superior controll ergonomics (no reversal of EV function between TTL and manual, positive stop between full and low power, the ability to go to full power while in manual mode).

Edited by diverdoug1, 07 November 2013 - 06:55 PM.


#29 Aliens

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 05:38 PM

Love the Inon240s. I never have had to wait until 10 flashes.



#30 diverdoug1

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Posted 10 November 2013 - 08:18 PM

Although both the z240's and YS-D1's require a "cool down" period according to the manuals, it may just be a way for manufacturers to CYA for flash tube failures.

#31 Grignesco

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Posted 05 April 2016 - 05:27 AM

Here are my manuals scan:

 

http://www.pdf-archi...r-manual-basic/

 

http://www.pdf-archi...anual-advanced/