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New Sea&Sea TTL Converter Compatibility List


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#41 dhaas

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Posted 25 January 2007 - 05:52 AM

Berkley,

We've met, laughed, maybe even shared a beer way back when. So I have to say I'm surprised for you to say iTTL and eTTL2 isn't so much more advanced and that it works for tons of UW shooters.......I totally disagree on cords, too.

As I've posted many, many time the 30+ year old Nikonos V style TTL conector is a piece of junk. Adapted when film TTL needed 2 more pins to make it work in a teeny, tiny space. The Ikelite connector on all their housings and strobes has been 2000% more reliable.

I and dozens, no make that 100s, of users routinely connect, disconnect and cap off for snorkeling with dolphins, available light shooting, etc. with this style bulkhead and cords with practically zero problems.....So for you to state that housing connections fail routinely due to moisture, etc. I think is not very accurate....

Also, Ikelite's pioneering Nikon iTTL, Canon eTTL and eTTL2, Olympus TTL, which have all been around simply work with today's digital cameras. Unlike any other TTL system out there.

Are there limitations? Sure! Just like using a surface Nikon or Canon dedicated flash unit on TTL the user has to use some brain matter.....But it sure isn't rocket science and is much faster to let the camera and strobe communicate making minor exposure adjustments while the photographer concentrates on the viewfinder....

Most people who have cord problems IMHO haven't been shown the easy and correct way to assemble and protect them, and leave it all connected if it works right at the beginning of a trip. They fool around with it too much, disconnecting and re-connecting when it isn't necessary.....

Sorry for the rant, just expressing another opinion ;)

Beer's on me next time we meet :unsure:

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#42 Poliwog

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Posted 25 January 2007 - 01:16 PM

Also, Ikelite's pioneering Nikon iTTL, Canon eTTL and eTTL2, Olympus TTL, which have all been around simply work with today's digital cameras. Unlike any other TTL system out there.


Sorry for the sour grapes but…

I wish Ikelite could have kept pioneering the iTTL and eTTL systems a little further and produced the long awaited i/eTTL sync cord for non-Ikelite housings.

While happy to shoot in manual flash mode, it would be nice to be able to have the choice to shoot iTTL or not.

Pity, there is really no viable iTTL solution on the market for Nikon’s top-of-the-line D2x(s). It would really “round out” an already incredible underwater photography system.
Paul Walker.
Nikon D2x, D7000, Aquatica D2x, AD7000, SunStrobe 200 x2, Inon Z240 x2, TLC Arms

#43 dhaas

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Posted 25 January 2007 - 01:38 PM

Paul,

You are correct, and if such an iTTL cord could be made to work only with Ikelite stobes I think they'd manufacture it.......It simply has been easier (and smarter) to put the electronics into the housing.

Unfortunately the Nikon D2X is too big, both physically and market wise to make an expensive mold. Especially when the major volume of dSLR cameras keep (and will likely continue) getting smaller ;)

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#44 malodiver

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Posted 26 January 2007 - 03:59 PM

I will add some additional findings on results of dry testing my system.
I have Seacam housing with 5 pin flash hot shoe. Seacam has its own iTTL strobe system, so the housing comes with one synch cable bulkhead compatable for iTTL. Unfortunatly their strobes are the price of a small car. I have the Nikon D2X and the newer Sea and Sea iTTL converter II. Testing with dual DX 90's was a bust. They full dumped every time, but timing was correct. Testing with DX Auto duals, worked perfect with 60 mm macro from f 8 to f 32, with dead center histogram on all shots. Explain that.
I now have Inon Z 240 to trial, but I cant figure out what settings to use for the strobe. Complicated directions. Any one have experience with settings on Z 240 for Sea & Sea i TTL converter?
I will then dry test and report back.

#45 erik

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Posted 29 January 2007 - 11:08 AM

Hi guys, thank you for helping me. I have just published a page with compatibility for the TTL CONVERT I and II. I will translate it in english soon as possible and i would like to to dawn this page every week so if you are using different kind of flash or housing send us your informations.

ERIK
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#46 malodiver

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Posted 29 January 2007 - 02:56 PM

Follow up on Seacam / D2X / Sea and Sea ittl II converter/ with dual INON Z240's.
Dry testing with strobes ( settings for film TTL ) looks good. Perfect histograms, with 60mm macro, f8 to f32. Wet test in two weeks, if the whole system doesnt melt down from electrolosis.
Will keep updated.
Jack, St. Paul, Mn.

#47 craig nelson

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 12:26 AM

Hi all

i'm using DX200 with type I TTL converter and a pair of Z240

SPOT ON, no problems at all.

regards

craig
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#48 seagrant

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Posted 01 February 2007 - 03:55 AM

Howdy folks...

Strobes must be in TTL mode.
Must turn controller on first.
Controller passes preflash signals to strobes.
Strobes working correctly emit multiple flashes (preflash).
All tests performed with Nikon camera bodies and N version Controllers.

>>>>>>>>

Cheers,
Berkley White

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Berkley,

Thanks. But one conundrum here. Sea and Sea 110 strobes as you know can only be put on TTL by turning on and past manual 1 and 2 first.....

So controller on first, this I do, but Strobes in TTL before that, can't do on S & S 110s.

So is it correct sequence for Sea and Sea 110s?

1. Turn Sea and Sea Type II controller on
2. Turn 110 strobes on and all the way to TTL?

My "new" (4th one tried) Sea and Sea TTL converter II seems to be working now with Subal ND20/S & S 110s/Nikon d200, I'll try it out on macro u/w in a week or so. Wide angle was so-so, but changing ambient light with manatee is a little too much to ask for any TTL system I think. Still it wasn't horrid - but yesterday I quit testing out the unit and used the manual bypass - thank goodness for manual bypass!!


Hi Carol, thank you.
..............The most difficult is to arrive to have good results when subjects are a bit war away, the TTL could not read the light very well and make some big exposure errors, for this reasons i will be use it in manual mode but i will continue my tests.
It's a big pleasure to look at your new photos of Manatees, i love very much your web pages. Last summer i was making photos to a Dugong in Marsa Alam (Egypt) I found this animal so sweet and with a big personality. Looking to your pages my interest into Manatee is growing up and i would come in Florida in the good season for Manatee to use my new TTL CONVERTER II. :-)
It will be a good time to take a look to manatees and to see the defferences between these animals and the Dugong. Here some shot of Dughy the gently Dugond of Abu Dabab (Marsa Alam Egypt). For the moment this dive site is not protected and to much divers and snorkellers come to see Dughy and sometimes with no respect... i hope that very soon Adu Dabab become a little protected area, we must protect Dugons like you protect Manatees in Florida.
I hope your wideangle shots with TTL CONVERTER will be very good, i'm waiting for new good pictures of Manatees, shots Carol and publish your new pictures pls. :-)

PS: i'm waiting to test the new Ys-250 with TTL CONVERTER.... good luck! :-)
Using SEA&SEA TTL converter with no Sea&Sea Housing: i will be a good idea to make a little compatibility table to put on line...so maybe all people using converter with no Sea&Sea housing are invited to post and give us more informations. A good idea, i think, to help UW photographers.

Many thanks and sorry for my poor english

ERIK
www.erikhenchoz.com


And Erik,

Yes thanks, new TTL II seems to be working now, but manual is better for drastic changing light w/manatee.

I'll write up a whole thing soon on the manatee here again and the challenges facing them and seeing them in Florida. I think it is still important people get to see them and interact up-close on a limited basis per protocal but Fish and Wildlife will be imposing new and stricter regulations to limit too many people at a time wanting to see manatee. In the meantime as I always tell people the responsible way to go see manatee is go during the week during slower times and never, ever on weekends or holidays.

At the proper times it is magical and the manatee really seem to take interest in the experience. Manatee are actually naturally curious. I observed young ones playing "bump" in the current that flows out in a particular channel yesterday. It is a real "game" but also must be an "exercise" for flipper and swimming dexterity and maneuverability. They would swim up into current, play-around back and forth and then all of a (obviously on-purpose...) suddenly stop swimming and get swept back and "bump" into each other - and sometimes "accidently" bump sleeping adult manatee (and even me at times.....). B)

There is a new manatee book out now by a person who worked with and pioneered manatee research for 25 years, mostly at Crystal River, FL, just north of where I live. It is not a manatee picture book but should be read by all who are interested. It has data never listed before on manatee eyesight, lifestyle, etc etc etc from someone who knows!!! It is at Amazon here and is an amazing book. I'll re-post in an appropriate thread also, sorry to get off-topic but I do love sirenians so!!! :blink:
http://www.amazon.co...n/dp/081302949X

I'll keep posted on how the Sea & Sea TTL II unit keeps working with 110 strobes.

Thanks, Carol

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#49 erik

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 04:35 AM

Many thanks for flash informations, i will update my little compatibility list on my web site.
And thank you Carol for informations about manatees, i will buy the book :-), really interesting!
Let me know issues with your new converter.

#50 nathanm

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 09:12 PM

I am about to get a housing for Canon 5D - not sure which one yet, but probably Aquatica. The Sea & Sea TTL converter has been recommended to me. Does anybody know if it works with Aquatica housings? Does it work with flash units other than Sea & Sea ?

#51 erik

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Posted 06 February 2007 - 12:58 AM

I am about to get a housing for Canon 5D - not sure which one yet, but probably Aquatica. The Sea & Sea TTL converter has been recommended to me. Does anybody know if it works with Aquatica housings? Does it work with flash units other than Sea & Sea ?


Hi Nathanm. How you can read in this discussion some photographer have problems to use ttl with different housings (not Sea&Sea), the problem is that the TTL CONVERTER by Sea&Sea is disigned with a positive ground. This could be a problem with housings with a negative ground.
This is now sure because Sea&Sea published this informations on line, is very inportant for all divers that are using or will be using TTL CONVERTER with differents housing from Sea&Sea.

http://www.seaandsea...1170065430.html

So i would ask before to my delear (housing) and in case i would contact Sea&Sea for more details.
I hope it will be helpfull for you.

Good dives anf good photos with your new 5D

#52 moliu

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Posted 07 February 2007 - 04:18 AM

Hi all

i'm using DX200 with type I TTL converter and a pair of Z240

SPOT ON, no problems at all.

regards

craig


Craig, what mode is your z240 on? I've tried the D200 with the type I TTL converter with a pair of Z240. I haven't been able to get consistent results. I don't even get pre-flashes from the Z240.

Can you tell me how you got it to work? I'm tempted to try the type II TTL converter to see if it makes a differrence...

Thanks

Jeremy

#53 moliu

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Posted 10 February 2007 - 08:12 PM

Has anyone tried a pair of Z240 with the type II nikon converter? Will that work?

I haven't had any luck with the type I converter that I borrowed from a friend... Will changing to a type II converter help?

#54 nathanm

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Posted 10 February 2007 - 08:22 PM

Does the Sea & Sea use the HW converter board internally? Another thread on Wetpixel says it does. If so, then the HW compatibility chart could be used

#55 shchae

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Posted 12 February 2007 - 05:52 PM

Hi,
I am in Anilao,Philippines with a friend who has S&S 5D housing + 2xZ240 + E-TTL converter & used it for 10 dives & it is working fine without any problem. Pre-flash also, work well.

This E-TTL converter was the one I sent to S&S together with my'melting' i-ttl converter (still in S&S...) & came back with a tag saying
'Unit tested & O.K.'.

I think there is no other problem reported so far & it is O.K. to use Z-240 with e-ttl/i-ttl cnvtr with S&S housing.

Sam
D800/D4 in modified Nexus housing
and Nauticam D-7000 with Insect-eye lens.

#56 moliu

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Posted 13 February 2007 - 09:05 AM

Hi,
I am in Anilao,Philippines with a friend who has S&S 5D housing + 2xZ240 + E-TTL converter & used it for 10 dives & it is working fine without any problem. Pre-flash also, work well.

This E-TTL converter was the one I sent to S&S together with my'melting' i-ttl converter (still in S&S...) & came back with a tag saying
'Unit tested & O.K.'.

I think there is no other problem reported so far & it is O.K. to use Z-240 with e-ttl/i-ttl cnvtr with S&S housing.

Sam


how accuracy is the TTL converter? Do i have to turn the converter on first and then the strobe?

#57 pakman

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Posted 13 February 2007 - 09:24 AM

how accuracy is the TTL converter? Do i have to turn the converter on first and then the strobe?


I think S&S suggests you turn the converter on first. There's no problem turning on the strobe first, but when you then turn on the converter, it will set the strobes off.

Canon 40D, S&S MDX-40D housing, Inon Z-240's
Sony HC7 & Gates Housing
 


#58 pakman

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Posted 26 February 2007 - 02:04 AM

I've got a question somewhat related to this topic but didn't think it warrants a separate thread.

What does it mean when the status display light on the S&S TTL converter is amber? Sorry, can't seem to find my manual. My TTL Converter apparently crapped out after a couple days in Palau. The light doesn't change back to green. Someone had a battery tester onboard and the battery appeared to be OK. Sync cord connections look OK. No big loss, as I was shooting mostly wide angle in manual but did miss it for the macro dives. (on the other hand, it did teach me to shoot macro on manual... :)) Will try to do some dry testing now that I'm back from the trip.

Canon 40D, S&S MDX-40D housing, Inon Z-240's
Sony HC7 & Gates Housing
 


#59 pakman

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Posted 27 February 2007 - 03:41 AM

Pls disregard the post above. It appears it was indeed a dead battery. Just installed a new one and got a green light... dooh!

Canon 40D, S&S MDX-40D housing, Inon Z-240's
Sony HC7 & Gates Housing
 


#60 moliu

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 07:17 AM

Hi,
I am in Anilao,Philippines with a friend who has S&S 5D housing + 2xZ240 + E-TTL converter & used it for 10 dives & it is working fine without any problem. Pre-flash also, work well.

This E-TTL converter was the one I sent to S&S together with my'melting' i-ttl converter (still in S&S...) & came back with a tag saying
'Unit tested & O.K.'.

I think there is no other problem reported so far & it is O.K. to use Z-240 with e-ttl/i-ttl cnvtr with S&S housing.

Sam


I was just wondering, what kind of settings to you have the strobes on I have the Z240 too...
Do you put the strobe on STTL? Low? Auto?
Or does it automatically go into TTL mode when I have it connected to the converter?

Thanks!

Edited by moliu, 21 March 2007 - 07:20 AM.