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Upro Filter Questions


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#1 donga

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Posted 10 June 2007 - 08:56 PM

Just picked up a new Upro CY Amber colored filter for $99 AU. It's an inside housing type that screws onto the camera lense itself.

A couple of questions I have are;

At my average dive depth of between 2 - 10 meters in bluey/green salt water on a sunny day, should I have white balance on full along with the filter?

Also, If I am at 20 meters, should I still use my filter if I am going to use a strobe light?

Does anyone use the same filter with a staight digital camera and have you got experience in how to use the filter and when not to use it.

There, I told you I was easy to please.

Tink ;)

Edited by danytink, 10 June 2007 - 09:00 PM.

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#2 donga

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Posted 11 June 2007 - 03:10 AM

;)
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Custom Point & Shoot Aluminium Deep Sea Housing/Bubble Lense/No controls
Single Tray/Dual arms long & short bendable/Led Torch.

#3 pmooney

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Posted 11 June 2007 - 03:37 AM

Check out the Ur/Pro site for detailed technical instructions.

UR/Pro Filter Instructions

These are the same as the ones that should have come with your genuine filter.

#4 craig

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Posted 11 June 2007 - 06:03 AM

Are you using this filter with video or still? It doesn't really matter but you've posted in the video forum yet refer to using strobes.

Still cameras should be shot RAW if available. In that case, white balance settings don't matter. For others cameras, using custom white balance for each significant change in depth is best. Otherwise use AUTO.

It is unlikely that you will get satisfactory results from using the filter in combination with strobes or lights. For video, there will be a big difference between halogen, arc-lamp, LED and fluorescent lighting. Halogen will work far worse with the filter than the other types.
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#5 donga

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Posted 11 June 2007 - 04:05 PM

Strobes only for still shots?

Video needs light at depth as well as a still camera, without light the film is washed out?

I have a digital video camera and am needing a good light source for deep dives where ther is no good colour. Upro filters are not as good as they show on the website apparrently. A guy said that at depth his shot's were not much different.

So light is important to compensate for lost light at depth.
Canon HD HF 10 Camcorder
Custom Point & Shoot Aluminium Deep Sea Housing/Bubble Lense/No controls
Single Tray/Dual arms long & short bendable/Led Torch.

#6 wagsy

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Posted 11 June 2007 - 05:18 PM

Danny
A URPro filter will work even at 30 meters if the water is clear and there is lots of sunlight.
A single chip CMOS video camera will not work as good at depth than a larger 3CCD one.
With a Urpro filter on you will loose a couple fstops.

If you can....
Turn off your (db) gain boost to stop it going grainy.
Lock the shutter at 50 (pal)
Use your filter till you get down deeper, then flip it out the way, turn on the lights and do a white balance. You may have to use manual control of iris to stop the camera overexposing subjects which they tend to do with the lights on.

If you are after video lights then you should get some of these.
http://www.gateshous...greenforce.html
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#7 donga

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Posted 11 June 2007 - 07:07 PM

Thanks.

There are a few terms you are using there which I am unfamiliar with.

ftstops??????

I see that flouro/white light is better at depth than yellow light?

tink
Canon HD HF 10 Camcorder
Custom Point & Shoot Aluminium Deep Sea Housing/Bubble Lense/No controls
Single Tray/Dual arms long & short bendable/Led Torch.

#8 Nick Hope

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Posted 18 June 2007 - 01:01 PM

Dany I'm not sure what you mean by white balance "on full", but as Craig says, with your type of setup that cannot be manually white balanced and cannot flip out the filter, you should leave your camera on AUTO white balance.

Strobes are used for stills photography. Basically like a "flash". With video we just call them lights.

If you use lights while your filter is on then subjects within the range of the lights will become red/orange. You could fix this in your editing software but if you are planning on using your lights a lot then think about leaving the filter off.

In terms of fstops Wagsy basically means that the filter is cutting down the amount of light entering the camera. This is important because the camera will start to use gain at a shallower depth than if the filter is not in place. And that is important because excessive gain causes a "noisy", grainy picture.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fstop

The general choice of lights breaks down into HIDs which are:

- brighter
- "whiter" (actually "bluer"... they match daylight better)
- longer burn time
- expensive

versus halogen which are:

- less bright
- "yellower"
- shorter burn time
- cheaper

I love my halogens for night dives and close work in caves etc. because they can be turned down very low and I don't mind the "warmth" of the light. I have blue gel filters on them to make them less yellow.

#9 Texas diver

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 09:07 AM

If you are after video lights then you should get some of these.
http://www.gateshous...greenforce.html


Wagsy-

Are you still using the two Brightstar Darkbusters? If so how are they holding up? If not why did you switch? The picture you posted a while back of your rig looked good with those and your DIY diffusers.

Thanks,
Vic
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