Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

The traditional overlay a camera experiment


  • Please log in to reply
7 replies to this topic

#1 Craig Ruaux

Craig Ruaux

    Great Hammerhead

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 788 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Oregon, USA

Posted 23 August 2007 - 09:13 AM

So, I took the rear shots of the d200 and the d300 from DPreview and scaled/aligned them to as close as I could make it fit, using the flash hot shoe as the reference point for size and alignment. The eyelets on the right hand side were measured and have the same internal dimension, so I am pretty comfortable that these images are equivalent in dimensionality.

Then I layered the d200 on the d300, and the result is attached.

The menu buttons have moved quite a lot, it seems that the space for the new large LCD came from the left side button area. The d300 is a lot squarer than the d200. People with very close fitting housings for their d200 (like my Sea and Sea) I think are probably going to have problems fitting the d300 to the d200 housing.

Attached Images

  • overlaybodies.jpg

Why would I take a perfectly good camera underwater??
D300, D200, D70, 12-24 f4 AFS DX, 60mm f2.8, 70-200 f2.8 AF-S VR, 105 f2.8 AF-S VR, Tokina Wunderlens.

Photo galleries @ Ruaux.net

#2 Rocha

Rocha

    Salty Dog

  • Senior Moderator
  • 3073 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:California Academy of Sciences, San Francisco, CA

Posted 23 August 2007 - 10:01 AM

Nice work Craig, from the dimensions I thought they were much closer.

Luiz

Luiz Rocha - www.luizrocha.com
Nikon D800, Aquatica AD800, Ikelite strobes.


#3 seagrant

seagrant

    Great Hammerhead

  • Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 789 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Clearwater, Florida
  • Interests:http://www.oceangrant.com

Posted 23 August 2007 - 10:13 AM

That's really interesting Craig, thanks.

Yea I suspect now that Light and Motion had the right idea with a bigger housing, etc! Smaller and more form fitting isn't always better in housings, especially in this case and for buoyancy specs too!

I don't hold too much promise for the Subal ND20 fitting it either. Possibly with a different tray alignment or different back made for the d300 to fit the ND20, it will be interesting to see what the housing manufacturers have to say?

We will see!

Carol

Edited by seagrant, 23 August 2007 - 10:14 AM.

http://www.oceangrant.com
Facebook-Oceangrant

Twitter-Oceangrant

d300/Subal/ULCS/Sea & Sea 110s/16;12-24;60;105vr;Tokina 10-17


#4 Undertow

Undertow

    Manta Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 441 posts
  • Location:Bermuda

Posted 23 August 2007 - 09:59 PM

nice image. I do think the layout would work better if the cameras were aligned at the base instead of the hot shoe. looks like the d300 hot shoe is a little higher but otherwise the dimensions look quite similar (except of course for the offset rear layout). lets hope it'll fit d200 housings with a new back. fingers crossed.......
D200, Aquatica, 10.5, sig 15, 12-24, 17-55, 60, 105
3x SB-105

#5 Udo van Dongen

Udo van Dongen

    Sting Ray

  • Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 263 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Netherlands

Posted 24 August 2007 - 12:17 PM

Nice work Craig, but to be honest i hope you images are not correct. According to the specs on Dpreview the D200 and D300 should be exactly the same size:

D300: 147 x 114 x 74 mm (5.8 x 4.5 x 2.9 in)
D200: 147 x 113 x 74 mm (5.8 x 4.4 x 2.9 in)

Probably both images were taken with a different lens or from a slightly different angle and isn't it possible to allign them correctly. As far as i can see (or actually hoping) we're only going to have to modify the menu buttons in our housings. For the rest i'm optimistic because for sure the prices of a spare D200 body are going to drop!! Anyway if i had the coice i would love to have a D300 and a D200 as a spare camera...

cheers, Udo

So, I took the rear shots of the d200 and the d300 from DPreview and scaled/aligned them to as close as I could make it fit, using the flash hot shoe as the reference point for size and alignment. The eyelets on the right hand side were measured and have the same internal dimension, so I am pretty comfortable that these images are equivalent in dimensionality.

Then I layered the d200 on the d300, and the result is attached.

The menu buttons have moved quite a lot, it seems that the space for the new large LCD came from the left side button area. The d300 is a lot squarer than the d200. People with very close fitting housings for their d200 (like my Sea and Sea) I think are probably going to have problems fitting the d300 to the d200 housing.


www.udovandongen.com
Nikon D800, D800E, Hugyfot housing, 15 mm fisheye, 16-35 mm WA, 105mm VR Macro, 60 mm Macro, Subsee +5 an +10 wet diopters, Inon Z-240 strobes (3x), Inon float arms, Nauticam armclamps, Bigblue and Inon focus lights.

check out more photos on the facebook


#6 fras

fras

    Lionfish

  • Member
  • PipPip
  • 63 posts
  • Location:Teruel (Spain)

Posted 25 August 2007 - 10:28 AM

Posted Image

I link this on autocad, buttons are aligned.
Some buttons displaced

#7 Rocha

Rocha

    Salty Dog

  • Senior Moderator
  • 3073 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:California Academy of Sciences, San Francisco, CA

Posted 25 August 2007 - 11:45 AM

Good comparison fras, if that's really accurate I think it will certainly fit in the housing, but many buttons will lose functionality. The viewfinder seems to be on the same location...

Luiz Rocha - www.luizrocha.com
Nikon D800, Aquatica AD800, Ikelite strobes.


#8 james

james

    The Engineer

  • Super Mod
  • 9969 posts
  • Location:Houston TX

Posted 25 August 2007 - 12:49 PM

To do this properly, you'll want to make sure that the centerline of the lens, viewfinder, and tripod mount are all in the same position. Afterall, you want to mount the new camera in the housing and have the center of the lens line up in the port, at the same time being able to see through the viewfinder. I know this because I've found out the hard way.

If that doesn't work then you'll either shim up or lower the camera in the housing using a shim or a new mounting base.

So the key measurement if you don't want to buy a new housing back is the distance between the centerline of the lens and the centerline of the viewfinder.

Information you can only get if you look at photos of the front of the cameras.

Hope this helps,
James
Canon 1DsMkIII - Seacam Housing
Dual Ikelite Strobes
Photo site - www.reefpix.org