31 replies to this topic

[wetpixel]

The problem is that I don’t see any option to change the EV setting in the BreeseSys converter that I have, maybe it just don't have it and I need another converter?....

In BreezeBrowser, hit "Convert" (Control-K), and click on the "Exposure Comp" button. You can now push exposure by two stops in either direction.

Regards,
Eric

[Arnon_Ayal]

James & Eric

It’s not my poor English blame (at list not this time)
After I read again the help file, I found that the "Exposure Comp" option is enable only for files that came from the Canon DSLRs cameras, so with my P&S it cannot be done

Another good reason to buy the 10D, any one has an extra 2500$?

[Reefkeep]

alto - Don't worry about I had the same question...

[Simon K.]

Alto: The only Program that supports Exposure Compensation with Canon S series RAWs is the Pohotoshop RAW Converter Plugin. Works Great! Don't want to live without it anymore.

Simon

[Simon K.]

Yesterday I was edited a shot of a wreck part from my last trip. After Level, Contrast and Brightness correction a few small areas of the wreck where badly overexposed.

I created a raw conversion with -1 fstop and dragged the two adjustment layer I used on the original pic on the new picture so that both images are modified in the same way. After flattening both images I dragged the less exposed version as a layer on the other version, aligned them and put a "reveal all" layer mask on the less exosed layer. Now I just painted with a small, 50-75% opacy airbrush over the ove exposed parts on the layermask and: goodby overexposure!

It's still not so good as if it would have been exposed correctly but you have to know that there was a correction to see it.

It is at least much much better than eliminate overexposed parts with healing brush or cloneing stamp like I did in the past.

I post some pictures of the steps later when I'm at home.

Simon

[Alex_Mustard]

I've been using/planning to use this technique for split level shots. By exposing AND focusing for both the under and over parts of the shot separately seemed an obvious place to exploit the joining of two images to create a greater whole.

I think it is important to keep the camera as close to the same position as possible between shots so that perspective is maintained and the image doesn't look too stuck together.

I used this technique (just using jpgs) for the split level image I used in my D100 Subal D10 review in Underwater Photography Mag's Feb Issue. You can quickly see the same image on my D100 page

click here

I got plenty of mail about that article but no one has questioned the "integrity" of the split level! Although that may have something to do with the fact that it is probably the worst split level shot I have ever published! But with about a 4 stop difference in exposure between the under and over aspects (in the UK in January) I think the image is acceptable image that I could have never managed on film.

Alex

[Simon K.]

As Promised som Pictures ti Illustrate:
first the Converted & rotated raw:

[Simon K.]

This is after leveling, contrast & brightness (and some healing the backscatter ehat you would normally do after the whole operation):

[Simon K.]

Please note the overexposed parts at the upper right tube of the wreck part.

Now here comes what i was able to to with healing brusch and cloning stamp: (n ot very good)

[Simon K.]

Since I wasn't very happy with this result, I createt this Raw extraction with -1 fstop exposure and put the same level and brightness&contrast layers on it:

[Simon K.]

Now I put this dark picture as alayer over the other and put a "reveal all" layer mask on it. With a small airbrush with 50-75% opacity i painted carfully (with with) on the mask at the overexposedparts. You have to be very careful not to paint at the darker parts.

This is the result:

[Simon K.]

And here comes the final result after some mor work (sharpening etc):

(All pictures are compressed rather strongly so exuse the bad quality)

Simon