DX-D100 with YS-120 strobes
Started by brad simpkins, Apr 11 2003 09:51 AM
4 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 11 April 2003 - 09:51 AM
I'm thinking of getting an underwater housing for my D100.... As I currently have a Sea&Sea NX-80 set-up, I'm leaning toward the Sea&Sea DX-D100... There seems to be some type of problem with the controls - as Sea&Sea has recalled the housings for a retrofit.
Regardless, I am still interested in the DX-D100 and would like to be able to utilize the Sea&Sea ports, gears and strobes that have been acccumulated.... Of biggest concern are the four YS-120 strobes I currently own...
Has anyone here extensively used the DX-D100 with YS-120's??? Do the new YS digital strobes make such a difference, that I should consider selling off a pair of my 120's for a new pair of YS-90DX's???
I've also heard that there is a manufacturer (??) that makes a housing for the D100 - with the ability to "adapt" the Sea&Sea ports - and also provides ROC for the strobes... Is this true, and if so, does anybody know of this manufacturer?
--Brad
Regardless, I am still interested in the DX-D100 and would like to be able to utilize the Sea&Sea ports, gears and strobes that have been acccumulated.... Of biggest concern are the four YS-120 strobes I currently own...
Has anyone here extensively used the DX-D100 with YS-120's??? Do the new YS digital strobes make such a difference, that I should consider selling off a pair of my 120's for a new pair of YS-90DX's???
I've also heard that there is a manufacturer (??) that makes a housing for the D100 - with the ability to "adapt" the Sea&Sea ports - and also provides ROC for the strobes... Is this true, and if so, does anybody know of this manufacturer?
--Brad
#2
Posted 11 April 2003 - 10:33 AM
I use the YS 120s and they work fine. You will be forced to shoot in manual, as you would with any strobe other than the housed SB series strobes. You will need to cover the contact on the upper right side of the hot shoe to make non-DX strobes work. I called Sea and Sea, and the clown on the phone told me that I couldn't use the 120s - that I needed DX strobes. Even when I referred to the tape-fix he said it wouldn't work. In fact, it works just fine.
The housing you refer to is the Light and Motion Titan D100. It may offer an adapter to allow your sea and sea ports to work, and it does offer 12 power levels with the YS 120s. It looks like a great housing, but they still have not improved on their flimsy base mounts that failed on me repeatedly with my E-20 Titan. If they fix this (which they show no interest in doing) this will be the must have housing for the D100.... If it ever releases.....
The housing you refer to is the Light and Motion Titan D100. It may offer an adapter to allow your sea and sea ports to work, and it does offer 12 power levels with the YS 120s. It looks like a great housing, but they still have not improved on their flimsy base mounts that failed on me repeatedly with my E-20 Titan. If they fix this (which they show no interest in doing) this will be the must have housing for the D100.... If it ever releases.....
Seacam F100;D2x; 60mm;105mm;16mm;17-35; 10.5mm;12-24mm
Sea & Sea strobes
www.underthecaribbean.com
Sea & Sea strobes
www.underthecaribbean.com
#3
Posted 11 April 2003 - 11:18 AM
Funny, Sea&Sea said the same thing to me. I sold my BEAUTIFUL SB-104's. I am now using the YS90DX. Not bad, but no SB104 in terms of power/coverage/recyle time :angryfire:I called Sea and Sea, and the clown on the phone told me that I couldn't use the 120s - that I needed DX strobes. Even when I referred to the tape-fix he said it wouldn't work.
#4
Posted 11 April 2003 - 07:04 PM
I shoot with the DX-D100 in manual mode with two YS120 strobes. For macro I shoot with the strobes at 1/2 power and full power for fish shots and wide angle. I had no problems with this set up at all. Sea & Sea told me that I didn't need special strobes with the housing in spite of the fact that I was ready to cough up the cash to buy them. The D100 image preview with highlights turned on is fantastic underwater and it was very easy to stop up or down to adjust if necessary.
I didn't do this and didn't have any problems. Kasey, why is this necessary?
As previously posted, my first attempt with this set up can be seen at http://www.underwate...igital/ss1.html
You will need to cover the contact on the upper right side of the hot shoe to make non-DX strobes work.
I didn't do this and didn't have any problems. Kasey, why is this necessary?
As previously posted, my first attempt with this set up can be seen at http://www.underwate...igital/ss1.html
http://www.underwatercolours.com
Skype address: underwatercolours
#5
Posted 11 April 2003 - 09:37 PM
You do not need to do this with the DX D100 because the housing's strobe cable only has 2 pins and therefore does not contact the TTL sections of the hotshoe.
You do not need to do it with the Subal D10, either, unless the TTL connectors have been soldered into place (optional and necessary if using housed SB28DX or SB80DX strobes).
I can't speak to the other housings.
Regards,
You do not need to do it with the Subal D10, either, unless the TTL connectors have been soldered into place (optional and necessary if using housed SB28DX or SB80DX strobes).
I can't speak to the other housings.
Regards,
