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D100 artifacts


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#1 Kasey

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Posted 03 May 2003 - 08:21 PM

I shot the St. Thomas Carnival today with my new 80-200 AF-S. Many of the photos have the color artifacts shown in the faces below. They seem to be reflection of the shiny costumes. Have any of you seen this before, is there anything that can be done?
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#2 Kasey

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Posted 03 May 2003 - 08:24 PM

1)
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#3 Kasey

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Posted 03 May 2003 - 08:26 PM

2)
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#4 Cybergoldfish

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Posted 04 May 2003 - 03:45 AM

They are just reflections of the sequins on the costume - Not too much you can do apart wait for a cloud to defuse the sunlight.

Lot of motion blurr in No.1 Where you drinking coffee prior to carnival?

Can you get me the phone number of No.2? Do you have any full length shots?

Curious about the choice of aperture on No.2 also

#5 Kasey

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Posted 04 May 2003 - 05:31 AM

Oh yeah, gotta have my cappuchino... Actually my best friend just came back from Costa Rica with the real deal - packs quite a punch.

I only posted the 1st pic because it was such a great example of the artifact.

I'll have the rest of the weekend's photos at

http://homepage.mac....otoAlbum13.html

and

http://homepage.mac....otoAlbum12.html

Harshest of critiques welcome - especially appreciated from you, Bob!
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#6 Kasey

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Posted 04 May 2003 - 05:35 AM

1st shot taken with ss 1/160 f8

I shot with shutter priority and dTTL fill flash
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#7 scorpio_fish

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Posted 04 May 2003 - 06:26 AM

Yup, reflections, not artifacts. Needed some shade :D

Curious about the choice of aperture on No.2 also



Your second shot has people in the background. They are too much in focus. A wider aperture would have softened them, thereby drawing the eye more to the subject. It would also allowed a faster shutter speed, which may have allowed the baton to be in focus. I try for 1/1000 or faster shutter speed to freeze things like baseballs, golf balls, etc. The beauty of the digital is the ability to change ISO on the fly to achieve the exposure you want. ISO 400 noise levels are quite good. ISO 800 tends to be marginal. Anything above that I find unacceptable as shot.

Can you get me the phone number of No.2?



I've got it, but I'm not about to share it :P
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#8 donauw

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Posted 04 May 2003 - 06:28 AM

Polarizing filter? Might have helped.

Regards,

#9 Kasey

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Posted 04 May 2003 - 01:35 PM

Polarizing filter - good idea

i kinda like the blur in the baton - I even shot some with lower speeds

Fill flash wouldnt work with faster speeds, right?
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#10 Kasey

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Posted 04 May 2003 - 02:51 PM

Scorpio - I was actuqally hoping for critiques from the photos at the attached site, these pix were only posted because they were the best examples of the problem I was having. They are not meant to be captivating photos.
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#11 Marc Furth

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Posted 04 May 2003 - 04:01 PM

Just clone out the shiny area in Photo Shop.

Marc
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#12 Cybergoldfish

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Posted 04 May 2003 - 04:58 PM

Hell, I just can't stop looking at No2!

Kasey, Can you repost links in Critique?

#13 davephdv

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Posted 04 May 2003 - 05:35 PM

In number 2 the artifacts may be dust on your CCD. Take a picture wide open against a bright back ground or white background and see if you can see artifacts that are caused by dust.
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#14 scorpio_fish

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Posted 05 May 2003 - 09:23 AM

Sorry, Kasey. I wasn't paying attention when I read your first post.

I keep a circular polarizer on my lenses at all times when shooting outdoors. It may often be of no use, but can be quite handy at other times. I prefer the Heliopan ultrathins and cheaper than Nikons (Nikon CPs are made by Hoya anyway).

CPs are most effective when the light is coming from a 90 degree angle, i.e. right or left. For eliminating water reflection, it is most effective when the camera angle is at 30 degrees downward. Just rotate the filter to adjust the effect. It's effect can be uneven on wide angle shots, rendering dark blue to light blue skies from one side to the other of the shot.
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#15 scorpio_fish

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Posted 05 May 2003 - 09:38 AM

Oops! Forgot. Flash sync on the D100 is limited to 1/180. It's hard to use fill flash with the 80-200mm unless you are pretty darn close to the minimum focus distance. That nasty law of inverse squares really cuts your light fast.

For effective fill flash, set your speedlight to standard dttl, not the matrix balanced 3d setting. Set exposure compensation to between -1.0 to -1.7.

I will look at the images tonight on my good monitor. You've got dark skinned people with bright colorful outfits and well lit backgrounds. Not easy to get the right skin exposure. But what do I know. Congress passed a law forbidding me to take photos of people because no one ever looked good and I've often been threatened with bodily harm if I ever show them publicly.
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#16 Kasey

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Posted 05 May 2003 - 10:15 AM

The SB-80 has a GN of 175 (ISO200) i think, which should give me a range of about 22ft, right? Honestly, I find it hard to believe that the range for balanced fill is anywhere near that, but the results were consistently good. I can't say it really was the result of effective flash fill, though.
Seacam F100;D2x; 60mm;105mm;16mm;17-35; 10.5mm;12-24mm
Sea & Sea strobes
www.underthecaribbean.com