Tips to keep water from gathering on the lens port
Posted 07 February 2010 - 11:34 AM
Spit is the trick on flat face ports .... rounded ports my be a different animal .... I've never used one.
Posted 16 February 2010 - 11:44 PM
One huge difference I've noticed between underwater and surf housings -- with underwater housings, we use ports that have flanges that come up past the actual dome or flat port. You can put a housing down with its dome port or flat port facing down, and the flange will protect the port from being scratched.
Not so with surf housings, and this is because the flanges are the cause of water droplets. With surf housings, the port has nothing around it. It comes up and is on its own. This is good, because water just sheets off the port (as long as there is "quality" spit on it).
I've used various compounds for over/under shots to have water droplets sheet off ports. Dried spit works well, but the spit must be "quality". By that, I mean this: you cannot have eaten anything recently. The spit has to be pretty clear. You have to let it dry on the port first. After that, it forms a very thin shield against water droplets.
Folks have tried using stuff like RainX and Turtle Wax. None of this stuff works and may actually damage acrylic or Lexar ports. The only thing I have found that works is mask defogger called Spectramar Beris that was marketed by ScubaPro years and years ago. This stuff works well, but is almost impossible to find. Its primary ingredient is ethylene glycol, and I've been tempted to just get some ethylene glycol and try it out sometime. But I still have a couple of bottles of Spectramar Beris after 25 years of underwater shooting.
Norbert Wu?! Wow. You can't see me right now, but I'm doing my best Wayne's World imitation: I'M NOT WORTHY!!!!
Okay. Sorry. Don't mean to embarass you. I've been a huge fan of your photos since I saw the NG Antarctica article.
Just joined the forum. Aloha, Everyone! Anyhooz...Thanks also to the originator of this thread. I should be getting a new Essex housing for my 7D any day now and these "little things" that can make or break a shot are just plain priceless.
Anti-freeze, though? I'll let someone else try it first. Heh!
Ken Ige (Iggy460)
Posted 17 February 2010 - 01:29 AM
Edited by TimG, 17 February 2010 - 01:41 AM.
(former Dive Manager KBR - Lembeh Straits)
Posted 29 April 2010 - 09:51 AM
Posted 30 April 2010 - 12:01 AM
Hope you had fun with the Essex housing. I just got mine too and have been enjoying it.
For me so far, the best tip I got for this subject was from Mike Waggoner of Essex: Use the waxy oils from the side of your nose or ears. Get some on your fingertip. Put the port front halfway in the water. Now rub vigorously up and down, spreading the stuff on the port front. Sounds gross and counterintuitive (I thought it would produce flare or haze), but it really works!
I've found two basic, but different situations for this issue:
1) Not sure if I have this right, but it seems when I use the wideangle (10-22mm), I have a very short amount of time where the rider is close enough to get a good shot, so I can do the dunk method: Keep the camera underwater as the rider approaches, then pull it out and shoot. A thin film of water stays on the port front but doesn't seem to affect the photo quality. I'm guessing because it's a very thin film and is thus optically pretty "correct", as Phil said earlier.
2) But when I use the 24-105mm, I can shoot each wave for a longer period of time, so that film of water eventually breaks down and that's when the spots and other irregularities occur. So this is when I want that thin film of water off the port BEFORE I start shooting. And that's where the nose/ear grease seems to work the best. Holding the camera out of the water, that film of water comes off a bit faster with the grease. And I always check the port before each wave and blow off any remaining drops.
Hope this helps!
Posted 04 June 2010 - 06:21 AM
Posted 06 August 2010 - 11:50 AM
Posted 07 August 2010 - 03:36 PM
- A Natural History Documentary -
Posted 11 March 2011 - 02:47 PM
Posted 16 March 2011 - 12:16 AM
Potato's, pure and simple. Someone mentioned a while back about spitting seems to provide best results after eating french fries. Connected? I'm hitting the surf most days now and have started rubbing a freshly cut potato onto the port about 20 minutes before hitting the water. Let it dry and off I go. It maintains a thin film of water on the port after emerging from the water for about a solid minute. This deteriorates in duration with the extended time in the water.
Spuds guys, that's the answer.
- Jojolcuisto likes this
- A Natural History Documentary -
Posted 16 August 2011 - 03:28 AM
Clean it with washing up liquid. (Pat the port, don't rub, just incase there's grit on your cloth) rinse with clean water and leave it to dry.
Make sure nothing touches it in the mean time. I have a plastic column that is taller than the port and then put a cloth over the top and secure with elastic band.
Then before going in the water spit and lick the port and let it dry for a minute or so. That should work a treat. If an spots aren't clearing then lick that one bit.
Make sure you don't have anything on your lips like suncream etc and be weary of what you've eaten. Cleaning your teeth before you go surfing helps.
Posted 02 August 2012 - 12:57 PM
The spit technique is such a smart and simple fix. Thanks for everyone's input.
I own a Women's Surf Camp in Costa Rica and we shoot a lot of pictures of clients. We have only recently thought about shooting from the water (instead of from the shore). This tip will prove to be very handy.
Owner of Pura Vida Adventures
Posted 21 June 2014 - 07:03 PM
I've been a surf photographer on shore and in the water since the 80's and my first underwater camera was a Nikonos I. Back then I used Cascade diswasher soap, but had to mortar and pestle the grains of the gritty soap for fear I would scratch the lens. Now, there is "Liquid Cascade", and as you know from the TV commercials, this will not only let water sheet off of wineglasses in the dishwasher, but also off of the surface of your air/water interface camera lens.
Just take that bottle of Liquid Cascade and transfer a little of it into a small squeeze bottle like a spent Visine bottle. Keep this little bottle in your photo bag. It only takes one drop, you know. So first put a drop between your thumb and forefinger and rub them together to clean that forefinger surface from any foreign debris. Rinse it off and put another solitary drop onto your forefinger and rub it gently onto the lens surface just before you go into the water. In other words, don't treat the lens, walk away, and let it dry on there. That might be bad for the seals of your housing or underwater camera. Apply it just before going into the water. This simple method has served me well for many years.