Advice from Ikelite SLR housing users
Posted 12 April 2008 - 08:40 AM
I had the camera and lens insured against flooding by DEPP but not the housing. DEPP was great to work with. They replaced the 20D with a 40D and my lens within 30 days. Since the 20D had been discontinued, I could not get another. My dilemma, a 40D won't work in a 20d housing. I called Ikelite, they would replace the electronics in the 20D housing for $250. So I did that and purchased a refurbished 20D for underwater.
Question: Is it possible to tighten the port lock guide screws just snug after installing the port every time so this does not happen again?
Thank in advance for your time. Mike
Posted 12 April 2008 - 08:56 AM
Yes, you can slightly tighten the screws such that the port locks are a little firmer, but I'd be wary of overtightening these and stripping out the holes. The port locks are designed to snap down when locked, so its not really the screw tightness that controls the seal. You just have to make checking the snap-down effect a part of your pre-dive mantra with the housing.
(And re-reading your question, you can't really in general tighten these 'after' installing the port, since you probably can't get to the front faces of the locks unless you've got one of the smaller ports, which I see you do. But I'd still recommend against it. I think tightening after locking just tempts you to overtighten to where the port clip won't slide and you'll damage the housing.)
Current rig: Sony SLT-alpha55 in Ikelite housing, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4.5 DC Macro in 6" 5503.80 dome (+2 diopter optional), Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 DC HSM behind UWCamStuff custom 5" mini-dome. Dual INON z240 Type IVs. Homebuilt LED/fiberoptic triggering.
Posted 12 April 2008 - 03:40 PM
I spend a week rolling off RIB's with the housing and strobes, and the system is secure enough for that (I use the smaller port system). Just to be sure, i tend to press against the port when rolling in.
My photo's on flickr
Crop the world ! (Using Canon 20D, 60mm, 100mm, 15mm FE, Ikelite)
Posted 12 April 2008 - 05:52 PM
Thank you, Mike
Posted 18 April 2008 - 09:26 AM
Thanks for the replies. Actually what happened was the camera was handed down to me by a dive instructor and when I surfaced the port came off. As I understand, pressure will hold the port in place while at depth.Using a dome port sort of shields them from direct downward access. I think the instructor bumped or snagged the lock and the fastener popped up. When I surfaced it came completely loose and the port came off. When I came home (you should try this too) I took a strap and pulled it across the port lock from the inside nearest the port and it unlocked. So I am trying to come up with a solution. Ikelite cannot add more locks, although it would solve the problem. I thought a piece of surgical rubber around the ports would work, but not so sure. Than I realized if you slightly snug the lock guide screws they won't move. Thoughts?
Thank you, Mike
I build a routine to my camera handling procedure, as soon as I catch the camera from the hand-off, I put my head in the water, look thru the port and the lock and make sure they are clicked. Once in a while for not much reason, I even turn the macro port a little bit just to feel it is in place ! Not recommended though !
Nikon D90, Tokina 10-17, Nikkor 60, 105VR, Nexus, Inon Z240 IV, Hartenberger Nano, FixLED 1000DX.
Posted 26 May 2008 - 05:39 AM
Also, I got hold of an inner tube from my mountain bike and cut a large width band from it. This I stretch over the back of the port. After kitting up and checking for leaks in the tank, I transfer the band over the two clips. Its a snug fit and the clips don't get caught up on other gear.
Canon 30D. 17-85mm. Ikelite housing. 1 x DS-125 Strobe + standard arm.
Posted 28 May 2008 - 01:06 PM
Milton, do you have a picture of what it is you do with the rubber tubing to cover the port locks?
Everybody - you backward roll into the water with your dome setup? That seems crazy to me but I don't own one yet...
Nikon AFS 60mm
Posted 28 May 2008 - 02:07 PM