Best BCD for New Underwater Photographers
#1
Posted 24 May 2008 - 12:14 PM
And here is what I posted on the new gear posting:
May I ask for advice, too? I am new to diving, but am an amateur photographer. I shoot with a Canon 20d and a 1d Mark ii. I generally shoot with "L" series lenses. I was able to get a an excellent used Sea & Sea dx-350d, which would mean I would have to get a Rebel XT or XTI. I just learned of an opportunity to buy an Ikelite housing for my 20d. Which housing will be better for me in the long run: an ikelite or a Sea and Sea? I am VERY new to this. It appears that the dx-350d does not have a built in TTL so I would need an external one. Is that correct? What does this mean? What are the advantages and disadvantages of one housing over the other. One issue that concerns me with Ikelite is that I cannot find housings for most of my "L" lenses, or, when I can for some of them, I will not be able to zoom (such as on my 28-70mm). I have checked Ikelite's port chart for this information. I was able to find my only non-Canon lens for to use for this, which is a Tamron 17-50 f/2.8. It is actually a nice lens. I will also be getting a Canon 100mm macro, which can use an ikelite housing. I would appreciate it if you could help me understand each of these housings so I know whether to get the ikelite housing for my 20d and sell the Sea and Sea, or whether I should keep the Sea and Sea. (I know that the 20d is a better camera overall. I am just investigating which housing is better.) In case you are wondering, I decided not to get a housing for the 1d. First, a lot of the features take two hands and, since I am new to diving, this would be cumbersome. Second, the 1d has a very low actuation count and is in perfect condition. I could not take a chance on anything happening to it. Thanks so much for this!
#2
Posted 24 May 2008 - 02:12 PM
Otherwise go with back inflation. Keeps the BC out of the way. I like the smallest one I can find. I use the Dive Rite with the travel wings.
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#3
Posted 24 May 2008 - 06:05 PM
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Canon EOS 5D, Aquatica Housing, Inon Z220+Z240 strobes, Heinrichs TTL, ULCS Arms
#4
Posted 24 May 2008 - 06:38 PM
As a photographer, you want to be as neutrally bouyant as possible, and a rear lift bladder has the best potential to get you neutrally bouyant underwater. I can't remember the exact science, (For the science bit...Click Here) but it goes something like this:- best bouyancy comes when the lift and weight coincide, i.e. put the air cell around the cylinder and push your weights as far back as possible - the result is a wing set up. Thus I actually ditched the whole BC style jacket for a wing and harness (also my entire rig is now bright blue - way more aesthetically pleasing than boring black)
I was going to go with the Dive Rite travel wing, but went with the AudaxPro Mauna Kea because they come in bright colours - by far the most important thing.
Hope this is of some help
Cheers
Hal
Edited by Halabriel, 24 May 2008 - 06:39 PM.
#5
Posted 24 May 2008 - 09:02 PM
The first one has over 1,200 dives on it and I just figured I needed a new one now but I still wear the old one for work or volunteer related diving.
It is my fav BC by far and can be configured to fit just about anyone and it is a little more padded than a hard backplate. Mine is the small harness with x-small shoulders.
I must say though that Cathy Church believes that traditional BCs (not back inflated) are much better for underwater photography. Her theory is the air bubble is much closer to your body and easier to manage and stay still in the water column. But then Paul Humann won't wear anything but a horse-collar type BC - a vintage style he gets specially made now I think!
But with the transpac I don't have a problem staying still (neutral). I think the thing is just not to get wings that hold too much air and are hard to manage. I used to swear by weight-integrated but now have circumstances where I like a weight belt so I can drop it and come back for it if I'm exiting via shore and carrying a lot. Plus if you are on a boat that insists on you taking the BC off in the water it is faster and more polite to hand up a weight belt and save the crew's back muscles. But of course you can always remove the weight pockets too.
Good Luck! Best, Carol
Edited by seagrant, 24 May 2008 - 09:08 PM.
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#6
Posted 24 May 2008 - 09:26 PM
Olympus E-520, TLC arms, Inon Z-240s, 50mm, 14-42mm woody's diopter
#7
Posted 24 May 2008 - 09:51 PM
So as you can see the real answer to which BC is....we can't agree.
Find what makes you comfortable and ignore all our personal preferences as they are unlikely to work for you. Confused? you will be
Cheers
Hal
#8
Posted 25 May 2008 - 07:52 AM
#9
Posted 25 May 2008 - 09:32 AM
Scubapro has a BC that was originally made in the same factory as the Dive rite Transpac and were the same design. You might want to check out Scubapro. That British design that was mention looks very similar to the transpac. For some reason American manufactures only like to make gear in black. Dive rite does make some other colored bladders (not in the travel wings I believe). I have a blue one that is a little bigger than the travel wings. I bought it in case someone forces me to add it to my backplate system in order to dive.
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#10
Posted 25 May 2008 - 04:25 PM
The TransPac Harness and the Venture wing also come in Blue and Red - As you can tell I have this thing about introducing colour into recreational diving. It is colourful underwater, we are photographers dealing in colour - why should we be the most drab things on the dive?
Cheers
Hal
#11
Posted 26 May 2008 - 05:32 AM
Canon 30D. 17-85mm. Ikelite housing. 1 x DS-125 Strobe + standard arm.
#12
Posted 26 May 2008 - 05:08 PM
Dive Rite is an excellent and cost effective system. It is modular, so you can swap and change as requirements change.
The TransPac Harness and the Venture wing also come in Blue and Red - As you can tell I have this thing about introducing colour into recreational diving. It is colourful underwater, we are photographers dealing in colour - why should we be the most drab things on the dive?
Cheers
Hal
My Dive Rite Dealer (I actually heard this from 2 big dive rite dealers in Florida - and Dive Rite is based in Florida) anyway they told me when I got my new dive rite BC - NOT to get the blue or red because it fades and ultimately it doesn't hold up as well after many dives. Something about the colored fabric isn't as durable as the black but maybe just isn't as durable because it fades so much???
Anyway 1200++ dives on my first transpac (black) and I'm loaning it to my girlfriend to wear tomorrow - still going strong w/original wings. My new transpac (black) has a couple of hundred dives on it and still looks very new. Not sure the colored ones would look that good now - don't know why dive rite added colors anyway??? Colors look good new but what about after 1000 dives?
Anyway just more info....... :-)
And try as many BCs out as you can in the pool, that is good advice too.
And have fun - finding the right dive gear should be fun!! Cheers, Carol
Edited by seagrant, 26 May 2008 - 05:09 PM.
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#13
Posted 26 May 2008 - 07:26 PM
Doesn't matter if it's a jacket, BP/W, horsecollar and campack, or a monkey harness.
"Best" is a relative term; each piece of equipment has advantages, and issues. Pick the tool that's best for the job at hand.
<snip>
And try as many BCs out as you can in the pool, that is good advice too.
<snip>
The best advice yet!
All the best, James
Edited by fdog, 26 May 2008 - 07:27 PM.
#14
Posted 27 May 2008 - 12:10 AM
safe snappy diving
The truly talented diver can dive in perfect trim, and maintain exact bouyancy and position with any system.
Doesn't matter if it's a jacket, BP/W, horsecollar and campack, or a monkey harness.
"Best" is a relative term; each piece of equipment has advantages, and issues. Pick the tool that's best for the job at hand.
The best advice yet!
All the best, James
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#15
Posted 27 May 2008 - 07:21 AM
Any comments on my logic from all of you helpful and thoughtful friends?
#16
Posted 27 May 2008 - 07:35 AM
Ditto on the try before you buy - most shops rent both. Would also recommend you don't buy until you're good in both jacket and back-buoyancy style (either wing or regular), since neither will fix lack of skill, and either will work if you're good. Otherwise, tough to compare them fairly - like buying your first SLR; who knows what camera best suits your shooting style until you actually have a style?
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#17
Posted 27 May 2008 - 02:37 PM
Since I have to buy them overseas, I am assuming that I will have to ship them back to the UK if there is a problem. Does anyone have experience with the AudaxPro system?
I use the AudaxPro, it is without doubt the most durable system I have ever come across, but I understand your concerns about servicing. Talk to your LDS, if they say that they can service it OK, then go with that. If they are doubtful go DiveRite. I bought mine in the UK, but now live in Bermuda - I service all my own kit.
...Colors look good new but what about after 1000 dives?
and Carol...it is still the brightest of blues, although I have admittedly got some way to go for the 1000th dive (I am 1/3rd there!)
Cheers
Hal
#18
Posted 27 May 2008 - 03:23 PM
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#19
Posted 29 May 2008 - 02:49 AM
I recently went with a Halcion SS rig. Like mentioned above, it's a solid setup, but on the heavy side. I noted a forum where the lighter Kydex backplates were discussed. I wonder if these lighter setups wouldn't be a prudent move with the ever increasing weight restrictions...If you travel a great deal and like a backplate, you might want to check out Deep Sea Supply. They make a Kydex backplate which weighs about 1 pounds, unstrung. www.deepseasupply.com
#20
Posted 29 May 2008 - 07:17 AM
In conjunction with a DSS tropical wing, it is incredibally ligtweight.
But that's assuming you use a BP/W, neh?
All the best, James
