68 replies to this topic

[BrianM]

Keri, that's also good work. The more people that can make professional adapters like you the better. Where did you get you diffuser material from?

Regards to you and Les.

[SlipperyDick]

I found a piece of clear polycarbonate in my garage, cut it to size with a band saw, and manually sanded the surface with rough sand paper until opaque....VERY professional . As soon as it's put in water it goes almost completely clear though, so diffuser is DEFINITELY just a prototype right now. I'm not actually sure where I'm going to find bulk material that's suitable for this diffuser...that's on the chopping block for today.

Keri

[samplin]

I found a piece of clear polycarbonate in my garage, cut it to size with a band saw, and manually sanded the surface with rough sand paper until opaque....VERY professional . As soon as it's put in water it goes almost completely clear though, so diffuser is DEFINITELY just a prototype right now. I'm not actually sure where I'm going to find bulk material that's suitable for this diffuser...that's on the chopping block for today.

Keri

Not sure but this material might work..

US PLastics

[SlipperyDick]

Thanks, Joe. I've found a few local suppliers that should do the trick. Ultimately, I think I'm going to have material supplied and cut by a waterjet company nearby, but for the time being I picked up a sheet of white acrylic (similar to what you linked to) to make more prototypes from. I'm wondering how much light this stuff will steal from P&S internal flashes.

Haven't decided yet if polyethylene, polycarbonate or acrylic is the best way to go though...

[diver dave1]

As I mentioned I use a new adaptor for my WP-DC11 to mount a Inon 67mm macro lens.
My G7 has also a hacked firmware (CDHK) to shoot RAW-files, it works perfect! So I allmost got a G9


cheers
scubariga

Scubariga,
Where did you get your adapter?

I am still trying to decide whether to follow Brian's exellent lead or buy something.

thanks,
Dave

[diver dave1]

Brain and others,

I keep wondering if there is some way to cut the G9 housing halfway out the lens end, shorten the piece, and re-attach it. This would provide the lens end for Brian's adaptation and allow wide angle lens to be used successfully.
I would be rather like the short lens cover for the Ike, more or less. The black internal lens hood would also be cut to match the new length.
If the acrylic was cut and sanded well, would acrylic glue (solvent) work sufficiently to hold underwater? In online videos, that bond looks strong but is it water tight?

Anyone else try anything along those lines or have ideas?

Does anyone know how much should be cut or how long the new total length should be to allow wide angle wet lenses to be used?


Dave

[BrianM]

Brain and others,

I keep wondering if there is some way to cut the G9 housing halfway out the lens end, shorten the piece, and re-attach it. This would provide the lens end for Brian's adaptation and allow wide angle lens to be used successfully.
I would be rather like the short lens cover for the Ike, more or less. The black internal lens hood would also be cut to match the new length.
If the acrylic was cut and sanded well, would acrylic glue (solvent) work sufficiently to hold underwater? In online videos, that bond looks strong but is it water tight?

Anyone else try anything along those lines or have ideas?

Does anyone know how much should be cut or how long the new total length should be to allow wide angle wet lenses to be used?


Dave

Dave, that sounds a bit risky. If you are interested in chopping the port down have a look at this thread http://wetpixel.com/...showtopic=15634
The way you suggest, the two surfaces would have to be perfectly flat and acrylic glue may not be suitable for a long term joint coping with changing pressure, temperature and water.

[scubariga]

As I mentioned I use a new adaptor for my WP-DC11 to mount a Inon 67mm macro lens.
My G7 has also a hacked firmware (CDHK) to shoot RAW-files, it works perfect! So I allmost got a G9


cheers
scubariga

Scubariga,
Where did you get your adapter?

I am still trying to decide whether to follow Brian's exellent lead or buy something.

thanks,
Dave

Hi Dave,

You can find the adapter at specialized shop in the Netherlands:

http://www.onderwate...hroefdraad.html

cheers
scubariga

[diver dave1]

Brian,

Thanks for the comments. I have looked at that thread as well and do not like the internal reflection problems presented. The mating surface for bonding is the same area either way. The cut surface of the housing side is all the bonding surface available regardless of the other side. At least that is how it looks to me.

I have the luxury of access to a machine shop where mechanics seem to love the challenge of something new and different. The alignment of the 2 sides and cutting them precisely should be no problem for them. There will be no cost to me for this fine service so that is nice.
For added mechanical strength, I expect to add bracing to the outside of the joint. By cutting the removed portion of the barrel to remove the curved section from the flat section, I can have straight pieces to glue to the outside of the joint. I can do this on bottom and top and perhaps the sides as well. This should provide considerable mechanical strength since the bracing will be bonded to the both sides of the joint and the bond area will be the larger flat portion of the barrel to the brace. Does that description make sense? I tried without success to paste in a drawing of it here.

The issue I am concerned with is the leak tightness and resistance to the pressure/temp changes you mention. Its the same for both construction jobs (the other thread and this one). The area of the cut is all the bonding area available.

What I would like is someone with an old Canon housing they no longer want to 'donate' it to the cause of testing this or sell it at low cost. If I had one to try, I could try it all, take it diving or send it diving with others. I would add weight to the housing to make it neutral but it would be empty of camera. Any takers?

[lrossel]

Brian,

Thanks for the comments. I have looked at that thread as well and do not like the internal reflection problems presented. The mating surface for bonding is the same area either way. The cut surface of the housing side is all the bonding surface available regardless of the other side. At least that is how it looks to me.

I have the luxury of access to a machine shop where mechanics seem to love the challenge of something new and different. The alignment of the 2 sides and cutting them precisely should be no problem for them. There will be no cost to me for this fine service so that is nice.
For added mechanical strength, I expect to add bracing to the outside of the joint. By cutting the removed portion of the barrel to remove the curved section from the flat section, I can have straight pieces to glue to the outside of the joint. I can do this on bottom and top and perhaps the sides as well. This should provide considerable mechanical strength since the bracing will be bonded to the both sides of the joint and the bond area will be the larger flat portion of the barrel to the brace. Does that description make sense? I tried without success to paste in a drawing of it here.

The issue I am concerned with is the leak tightness and resistance to the pressure/temp changes you mention. Its the same for both construction jobs (the other thread and this one). The area of the cut is all the bonding area available.

What I would like is someone with an old Canon housing they no longer want to 'donate' it to the cause of testing this or sell it at low cost. If I had one to try, I could try it all, take it diving or send it diving with others. I would add weight to the housing to make it neutral but it would be empty of camera. Any takers?

Dave, I have two WP-DC16 housings, but they are both new. I'm planning to modify one of them in order to attach my Sea&Sea 16mm Wide Angle Len. Do you want to share your drawing?

I'm thinking to do what Auder and dagobert did in the post: Auder Modification

[diver dave1]

Irossel,

Thanks for the link. I have seen that thread before. Between BrianM and that thread, it got me interested in trying this modification. What I do not like about the link you mention:
1) Internal reflections since the black boot is removed from the lens barrel.
2) They have to form a method for connections of the wet lens.

I am hoping to re-use the front end of the lens barrel with the hood. This will need a bit of hood triming to fit but that should be easy enough. I am hoping to remove a slice from the barrel and re-attach the existing front end. This requires 2 cuts that are exactly in the same plane so that the connection can be re-made. Not practical by hand but likely possible with a machinist.
I am guessing the thickness of the removed slice needs to be about the same length as the difference between the ikelite regular G9 port and the short port.

I need to obtain that dimension and someone that is willing to provide a housing they are no longer needing. Willing to pay a reasonable fee for the housing but not too much as its only for the testing prior to using it on my G9 housing.
thanks for the encouragement. When/if I get the needed items, I will takes pics and post the results here.
Upon further review, I find my drawing not good enough to share yet but thanks for asking. If I get time to improve it, I will let you know.

Dave

[GUnderTheC]

Brian,

Nice mod. The lens caddy looks really handy. How did you mount it to the housing? Some closeups would be great!

Cheers

[BrianM]

Brian,

Nice mod. The lens caddy looks really handy. How did you mount it to the housing? Some closeups would be great!

Cheers

Just some cable ties and nylon cord.

[GUnderTheC]

I see it now... thanks

[luppie]

Hello all, THANK YOU SO FOR MUCH FOR THIS INFO! I bought myself a converter and macro lens for my Canon DC11 housing (G7) but never got around to using it since my housing is already falling apart. Thank god the euro's still up and I plan to get another for around 125 US for my next trip. Will definitely try your system as your pictures are GORGEOUS (subject matter, framing, everything). I also have the firmware hack, so will stay with my G7 as I'm quite happy with it. Happy bubbles to all!

[lenharpd]

Brian,

Thanks for the info on this thread. I have a G9 and the cannon housing. I have ordered 3 of the stepping rings from BH photo and 2 of the Inon ucl-165 lenses from Uwphotography.com. I have a friend that is absolutely amazing with his lathe, so I plan on utilizing his skills to assist with the mod. I'm going to take pics the entire process and plan on posting them after its all done.

I'm headed to Bonaire in October for a week and can't wait to see the results! Thanks again!

Paul

[lenharpd]

Brian,

After a couple weeks, I finally got to my project. Here is the lathe version of your mod. Works perfectly.

Thanks!

http://www.scubaboar...tml#post4355862

Paul

[xariatay]

Paul, looks professionally done... Should make a couple more for sale?

[stewsmith]

Paul, looks professionally done... Should make a couple more for sale?

It certainly does, if you do make any to sell, please let me know as i wiould be interested in buying one.

If you look at Brians Flickr page and see what shots he is achieving with it, it is amazing. His latest shot of the Coleman shrimp is one of the best I have seen.

http://www.flickr.co...yes/3435643247/

I hope you dont mind me putting this link here Brian.

all the best, Stew

Edited by stewsmith, 16 April 2009 - 11:23 PM.

[Eyematey]

Thanks for the info. I picked up a used DC21 and this is great because I have 67mm lens from Tetra housings. I completed the project in one try pretty much on the kitchen table. Just wanted to add that instead of the template I just took all 6 screws out and removed the plastic face plate from the housing. Placed the stepping ring (after sawing) on the table and put face plate on top and marked holes on ring. All a bit tedious but a great DIY modification that's easy on the wallet for a change.