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PRINTING how big can I go?


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#1 Graham Abbott

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Posted 01 September 2008 - 09:51 PM

I know very little about printing, I had some prints done while I was in the US and was very impressed at how come they out. I'm not thinking of doing some more...

I know that my Sony only does prints up to about 14inches. What is the biggest I can take photo's from Nikon D300 to, and what about other good digital camera's.

I know the Hasselblad is probably the best for size, for what about a camera not so expensive???

Edited by Graham Abbott, 01 September 2008 - 11:06 PM.


#2 PRC

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Posted 01 September 2008 - 10:24 PM

Have taken shots from my D200 easily to 14" by 20" (A2).

The origional shot needs to be decent though - if you need to push it too far in the RAW converter then it seems to me that you can see the effect in the print.

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#3 Graham Abbott

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Posted 01 September 2008 - 10:58 PM

You are only getting 14 inch prints from a D200? I would have thought you'd get much bigger. Anyone else had any BIG prints done with their cameras?

#4 Balrog

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Posted 01 September 2008 - 11:37 PM

Subject to machinery, you literally can go on for ever. It depends where you expect your target audience to stand.

#5 Graham Abbott

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Posted 02 September 2008 - 12:32 AM

Subject to machinery, you literally can go on for ever. It depends where you expect your target audience to stand.

I know printers can go to any size, though I'm trying to find out is what size the image can go to without loosing quality?

#6 cor

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Posted 02 September 2008 - 01:25 AM

It really depends on what you want to use it for. Ive made 30x40 (inch) canvas prints from my D2x and it looks fine. Glossy prints would probably not look as good up close, but ive sold some and on a wall they look fine as well. If you dont want to lose any quality at all, then it's easy to calculate..

My camera gives me 4200x2800 pixels. Assume I want to print in 240 ppi, then I can make a 17x11 or something in that area without any loss of quality. But you can uprez quite a bit in photoshop without any visible loss of quality. Id say 21x14 or so should be no problem at all, but probably 24x16 would be possible as well.

Just give it a try.
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#7 Stewart L. Sy

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Posted 02 September 2008 - 03:07 PM

As others have said, depends on the image. I've got a 20x30 image of a pygmy seahorse shot with the 10D that stands up to scrutiny even if your nose is on the glass. I printed tigershark shot by a friend on my HP Z3100 44" printer from her Bahamas shark dive with Jim Abernathy end from her D200 that's 36" wide, it looked so good that I printed another copy and it's now hanging in my office (signed by the photographer). Some hotshot NYC fashion photographer printed 8 foot tall portraits of kids shot with a 6MP camera. If you print on canvas, the texture of the medium will provide perceived detail, but if you print on glossy then you won't have as much leeway, it also depends if you're printing something with lots of detail like a coral reef or something with smooth textures like a person's face.

There are no hard and fast rules, viewing distance is a factor as well, everything doesn't have to be 300 dpi, if so then billboards wouldn't be possible as those are printed no in dots per inch, but dots per feet!

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#8 Graham Abbott

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Posted 02 September 2008 - 04:49 PM

Scubastu/Cor,

Thanks for the help here! So basically if I want fine detail work on glossy prints I can only really go as big as it says you can go in, say PhotoShop? But if I want to print much bigger I can upres to what ever I want... Is this right? If so what is the best way to upres? So far I've trying this by resizing in small stages.

Plus, so far I've only been working with jpgs. I know there's a lot of talk about jpg's not being as high quality as raw or tiff or what ever. Though Jim Watt, who was probably the first really top digital UW shooter (and who probably sold more UW images than most pro's) only shot jpg's. SO what is the real difference between the formats for printing use...

AND PLEASE - no long winded technical jargon replies that are gonna baffle the hell outta me... I only a dive gide n ain't so gud wiv stuf lyk dat!

#9 jgunther

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Posted 02 September 2008 - 05:16 PM

I know very little about printing, I had some prints done while I was in the US and was very impressed at how come they out. I'm not thinking of doing some more...

I know that my Sony only does prints up to about 14inches. What is the biggest I can take photo's from Nikon D300 to, and what about other good digital camera's.

I know the Hasselblad is probably the best for size, for what about a camera not so expensive???



Printed several underwater images on 24x30 on Metalic Paper and they looked great. Images were shot on D80. Exposure and focus have to be bang on to print to that size.

#10 sgietler

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Posted 02 September 2008 - 05:43 PM

Have taken shots from my D200 easily to 14" by 20" (A2).

The origional shot needs to be decent though - if you need to push it too far in the RAW converter then it seems to me that you can see the effect in the print.

Paul C



I've printed 20" by 30" from a D80 / D200 no problem.

Scott

#11 TheRealDrew

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Posted 02 September 2008 - 07:07 PM

I know very little about printing, I had some prints done while I was in the US and was very impressed at how come they out. I'm not thinking of doing some more...

I know that my Sony only does prints up to about 14inches. What is the biggest I can take photo's from Nikon D300 to, and what about other good digital camera's.

I know the Hasselblad is probably the best for size, for what about a camera not so expensive???



With a 3040 (3 Megapixel Camera) a good shot (lower ISO and everything working) with Genuine Fractels made 16 x 20 prints that looked pretty good when looking at viewing distance.

#12 Stewart L. Sy

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Posted 03 September 2008 - 07:27 AM

Using Photoshop CS3, it's now recommended to upress in 1 shot, using Bicubic Smoother. With a D200, you can easily go up to 20x30 given a good capture. I only use RAW but have upressed and printed a Flamboyant cuttlefish image from my 10D to 20x30 and it will hold up to close scrutiny. Greatest thing is to have a noise free image, I use Genuine Fractals now but have no qualms using only Photoshop (which is what I did when I blew up my pygmy seahorse to 20x30). Upress to your desired image size then zoom out to 50%, if the image looks good on screen, chances are it'll look good on print. You need to be good at using sharpening as well.

s.

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#13 TheRealDrew

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Posted 03 September 2008 - 08:16 AM

Using Photoshop CS3, it's now recommended to upress in 1 shot, using Bicubic Smoother.



Have you found any good comparison sites? I have GF, various PS versions and one from Alien Skin. Interesting about the 50% (I often find myself looking too closely at the screen and sometimes miss the forest through the trees I think ;) )

#14 Stewart L. Sy

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Posted 03 September 2008 - 09:08 AM

this is the technique I used in CS2 to upress my 6mp pygmy seahorse shot to 20x30... http://www.outbackph...f_60/essay.html

here's an interesting comparison between the different upressing options: http://theonlinephot...bigger-but.html

So far, what works for me has been Genuine Fractals with sharpening using Photokit Sharpener.

s.

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#15 TheRealDrew

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Posted 03 September 2008 - 10:08 AM

this is the technique I used in CS2 to upress my 6mp pygmy seahorse shot to 20x30... http://www.outbackph...f_60/essay.html

here's an interesting comparison between the different upressing options: http://theonlinephot...bigger-but.html

So far, what works for me has been Genuine Fractals with sharpening using Photokit Sharpener.

s.



Thanks for those. Yup Blow Up is the one I was thinking of (my other plug in in addition to GF). Will have to run some test prints with all three at some point.

#16 Stewart L. Sy

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Posted 05 September 2008 - 01:27 PM

Drew,

Here's an exhaustive article by Jeff Schewe, one of the minds behind Photoshop... http://www.digitalph...the-up-res.html

s.

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