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Available light shots


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#121 james

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Posted 09 November 2003 - 08:02 PM

Here is an article by Alex Mustard and Craig Jones that should help you:

http://www.wetpixel....vailable_light/

There are some sample photos there.

Cheers
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#122 DaNemesis

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Posted 09 November 2003 - 09:08 PM

Thanks James.
I've seen the article and found it to be instrumental in getting geared-up for my upcoming trip. I was wondering if anyone else has had the opportunity to try their hand at using the technique.

#123 Alex_Mustard

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Posted 10 November 2003 - 01:47 AM

I have found it very applicable at shallow sites in Grand Cayman - but many of the traditional dives sites are too deep - so it is important to select where you try it. Alex

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#124 DaNemesis

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Posted 10 November 2003 - 09:21 AM

Hi Alex,

Thanks for the info. I don't plan on going below 10m on this trip.

#125 TomR1

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Posted 28 November 2003 - 04:08 PM

Greetings,
I have read the article and reviewed this thread and would like to try my hand at available light photography.

Could I get some help on where to start.

Data:
1-I will be in Bonaire 12/6-12/17 and will usually dive between 35-60 feet.
2-I have an Oly C5050 in a Pt-015 and a Sing-Ray SR-B 67mm Marine Filter that I purchased as part of a package deal.

With my strobe [INON D-180] I simply set to f 5.6, point the camera at the water and set the EV to 0. Is this a good place to start with available light photography?

Tom

#126 CeeDave

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Posted 29 November 2003 - 12:05 PM

Tom,

Using a strobe AND a lens filter is very tricky ... the red correction from the lens filter for ambient light will make the strobe too red unless you use a filter on the strobe, to shift it bluer. As a beginner at this, I am sticking with "pure" available light (no strobe) until my use of filters in this situation is good, and then I may try to get fancy with the strobe. Craig (if I recall correctly) has previously posted on how filters nicely fit on some Inon strobes.
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#127 TomR1

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Posted 29 November 2003 - 04:32 PM

Ok no strobe. Where do I start with my f-stop, ev and shutter speed?

Tom

#128 Giles

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Posted 30 November 2003 - 06:48 AM

The easi4est answer is check the readings on your camera when you get in the water. If you put it in auto you will get a setting that will work.
If you put it in aperture priority it will then choose your shutter speed for you.
and then when you get used to it you can put it in manual and adjust all your settings for the result you want. :rolleyes:

i would like to know what filter pack you have as i have a oly 3040 in tetra housing and would like to know what sortof filter system ohter people use with it.
is there a web example of what you use ?


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#129 TomR1

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Posted 30 November 2003 - 03:51 PM

Giles-
It is clear that there is a dearth of experience on this subject. To the extent I can I will add to this thread.

I wish I could find a refrence to the filter that I have. The bill of sale says Custom Filter SR-B 67MM (Underwater). The filter case is labeled Singh-Ray Marine Filter 67MM.

I have 10 diving days in Bonaire so I should be able to experiment with available light photography as well as take standard pics with my strobe. [INON D180]

I will start in Macro, Auto, no strobe mode and see what happens at various depths and natural lighting conditions.

Tom

#130 mjleblanc

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Posted 23 December 2003 - 09:06 PM

Great shots !

Being a neophyte at the DSLR and Ikelight approach, I have a really basic (I am sure) question......

I have tried to do the same thing, using my D100 with no strobe, but the shutter will not trip underwater. Above yes, but once in the water, nuttin. I know I am probably missing some very obvious points, but I don't know enough to be dangerous. Any help would be appreciated !

mjleblanc

#131 james

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Posted 23 December 2003 - 09:13 PM

You are probably trying to use a wideangle lens behind a dome port and the lens doesn't have a close enough focus to focus on the virtual image created by the dome.

The lens will focus fine above water, but when underwater, the water and port acts as a negative diopter.

Cheers
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#132 apete

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Posted 25 April 2004 - 03:13 AM

Interesting thread. One day I'll read it...

I too have experimented with custom WB:
http://homepage.mac....otoAlbum49.html

With my Canon S40 I got some ok shots. I only tried it once with my new Olympus C5060WZ, and it didn't work at all.
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#133 baddpix

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Posted 24 August 2004 - 03:08 AM

Help!

Does anyone make colour correction filters that will fit on Sea & Sea equipment?

specifically
- DX 5000 (Nikon Coolpix 5000 housing) standard port
- Sea & Sea WA lens for MMIII and DX5000

If not, is it possible to buy larger filters, cut them to size and ...?

My local photo experts say "no" to both
:)
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#134 Alex_Mustard

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 04:39 AM

I have noticed quite a big difference between CC filters and Fluorescent filters is in the cameras ability to auto white balance.

Fluor filters (specifically the UR-Pro series that I have used) tend to work really well on AUTO-WB (even when they actually don't look too good on the LCD screen when they are underwater). Whereas CC filters tend to need custom white balancing either in situ with a grey/neutral card or in RAW conversion in post processing.

This shot, for example, was shot on Auto WB and can out of the camera looking pretty much like this. The only way I can get such good colour balance straight from the camera with a CC filter is in situ WB.

Posted Image

The obvious answer to this is that fluor filters are better. But I am not convinced about this because at certain depths the camera uses more extreme white balance (colour temp and tint) settings for the UR Pro than are needed for the CC filter. It is just that the camera (well my cameras D100 and D70) have found it easy to get the right white balance (in Auto) with the Fluor filter as opposed to the CC filter.

Alex

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#135 craig

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 05:55 AM

Alex, I absolutely agree that FL filters are better for ambient light and I think that the camera agrees too! I think CC filters are OK for shallower depths and for complimentary stuff. FL filters are much harder for mixed light shooting though.
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#136 Alex_Mustard

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 07:35 AM

Craig, I was hoping that you would add your thoughts.

Now we need a fluor filter that will work on a fisheye! (Not easy to physically fit them on with glass/sandwich FL filters).

Alex

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#137 echeng

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 09:48 AM

Nice color, Alex.

But I'd bet that if you saved your white-balance image and did a post-WB using the white from that image (as opposed to trying to find white on the image you're working on), you'd arrive at similar results...?

Or is that not the case? The reason for this is that the WB is so far off the scale that normal raw converters don't even offer the option for you to drag the sliders that far. One has to WB by clicking on white, and since it can be difficult to do so in the actual image you want to WB, you can take the settings from another, helper image.
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#138 craig

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Posted 03 March 2005 - 10:42 AM

Craig, I was hoping that you would add your thoughts.

Now we need a fluor filter that will work on a fisheye! (Not easy to physically fit them on with glass/sandwich FL filters).

Alex

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

There aren't any that I know of. I've combined two gels for that purpose but it's very hard to do without the image going soft. It's be great to get some FL gels.

Nikon's 16mm has a lens cover that's easily adapted to take a front filter. With a DX sensor camera the corners aren't clipped too bad and they disappear with barrel correction. That doesn't help the 10.5 of course.

I think a tinted dome would be cool too. :D
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#139 Alex_Mustard

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Posted 04 March 2005 - 12:43 AM

I think a tinted dome would be cool too. :D


What a great suggestion. That would be the ultimate UW photographic extravagance.

Alex

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#140 Drew

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Posted 05 March 2005 - 01:15 PM

Help!
Does anyone make colour correction filters that will fit on Sea & Sea equipment?
specifically
        - DX 5000 (Nikon Coolpix 5000 housing) standard port
        - Sea & Sea WA lens for MMIII and DX5000
If not, is it possible to buy larger filters, cut them to size and ...?
My local photo experts say "no" to both
:blink:

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Kirk at URPRO can custom make them to your specs... at $$$. Another idea is to check out ikelite. They have a plastic filter cap for their bigger video housings which can be retrofitted. I have no idea how wide your WA lens is but that's a start.

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