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camera specific settings tips


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#1 derway

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Posted 27 February 2002 - 12:40 AM

Hi All.

I just wanted to get some discussion going here, so I thought I'd suggest a topic, which could turn into multiple threads.

My idea is for anyone who has used a particulr camera under water, to describe their system setup, and then describe the camera settings and modes, which have proven to be important, and why.

I think Matt has one for the Olys.

I'm working on one for the G2, and will post here soon.

Don
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nikon n90s/ikelite housing/twin SS-200 canon G2/ikelite/DS-50/optical TTL slave
sony V3/ikelite/DS-51/Heinrich DA2 slave

#2 james

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Posted 27 February 2002 - 06:04 AM

I have one for the Nikon.
Canon 1DsMkIII - Seacam Housing
Dual Ikelite Strobes
Photo site - www.reefpix.org

#3 Andi Voeltz

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Posted 28 February 2002 - 07:54 AM

Hello James,

you know I really love the guys who just reply "yes" if you ask them "do you know what time it is?" :) So could you please post your setting for the nikon coolpix 990 here. I would really love to discuss this... Because we are using the coolpix 990 too, in a uk-germany housing?

Best regards, Andi

[Edited on 28.2.2002 by andi]
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#4 David

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Posted 28 February 2002 - 09:58 PM

You must remember that Nikonos V sync's with the flash at 1/90 speed or less. Furthermore, the lenses are fixed focal length.

The following is my general rule of thumb setting.

For Macro with 35mm, 1:1 extension with twin ikelite SS50 and ASA 100. The setting is at:
2.75 feet
f/22
1/60 or AUTO
When in Macro with added extension tube, there isn't much of a choice.


For wide angle with 20mm twin Ikelite SS400 and ASA 200
5 feet
f/8 or f/5.6
1/60 or Auto

I find most of my subjects at about this distance and f/5.6 or f/8 allows for a lot of depth of field on a 20 mm. With twin Ikelite SS400, it is powerful enough to overcome the exsiting ambient darkness or brightness.

I am not saying I always shoot based on the above, but the above is my default setting before and after a dive or after a shot. This way I can operate the camera without looking at the dials. My eye spends maximum time in the optical range finder looking at the subject for that perfect moment.

[Edited on 3-1-2002 by David]

#5 davephdv

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Posted 28 February 2002 - 10:16 PM

Twin SS400s ? Do you ever take those things on a plane? I think they make submarines that weight less. I was taught to shoot macro at f22 but the Brooks Inst. of Phot recomends f16. Though you lose some dof your lens will be sharper at f16.

If you are shooting dolphins avalible light don't waste your time at less than 250 shutter speed. Often true with sea lions. This is why a quality SLR that can synch at a shutter speed of 250 is a nice thing to have. What does the CP5000 synch at?
Dave Burroughs, Nikon D300, D2X, Subal housing, DS160 strobes

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#6 David

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Posted 01 March 2002 - 01:38 AM

SS400 weighs in at 6.6 lbs each.

Twin means 13.2 lbs plus arms. Actually once underwater it is not so bad, but it still sinks. Particularly the Ikelite arms, but I really like their quick grip system, and use the easy detachement feature frequently.

They do go on the plane with me. How do I do it? Well when I travel, I go in a family of 2 adults and 2 children. So I have a lot of carry on capacity as long as a I spread it out.

When I mentioned my macro and wide angle setup, I mean I actually dive with both cameras (Nikonos V X 2).

I have collected all this stuff over many years, if not I could not afford to go diving.

With the modern SLR you have the autofocus feature to help get your shot. In the all manual Nikonos V, there is no autofocus, so you need to estimate your distance and use depth of field to allow for margin of error. Furthermore it can only sync at max of 1/90th, if I remember corrrectly.

I do have some action shots, but the background is blurred / streaked due to my panning. The large optical range finder makes shots like these easier than an SLR, because your mirror is up and you cannot see anything.

[Edited on 3-1-2002 by David]

#7 james

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Posted 01 March 2002 - 09:22 AM

Hi Gang,

I have a Coolpix 990 and Ikelite housing. I will post a picture of my rig as soon as I get it back from a friend. He is practicing with it for use on their upcoming Earthwatch trip to Bonaire to study sepiateuthis.

The shots online at:

http://www.reefpix.org

were taken using this rig and a SB102 Strobe or an Ikelite 100w video lite. I have a 2 joint Ultralight arm with a triple clamp for a modelling light. The night shots of the coral spawn were taken using the video light.

image

When using the videolight, the camera has no problem focusing at night.

For the strobe shots, I use:

Camera in Aperture Priority (A) or Full Manual(M). Strobe in TTL.

For macro I shoot at:
A
f 11 (highest on the coolpix)
Strobe in TTL

image

For closer shots:

2-3 ft
A
f 4.5 to f 7
Strobe in TTL

image

For Wideangle (coolpix is around 28mm - 28mm housed ~ 20mm Nikonos lens)

5-7 ft
A
f 4
Strobe in TTL or Full

image

I recently picked up an SB90DX to add to my setup and I hope within the next month to put my Coolpix 5000 in a housing. Then I will get to work with Nikon's excellent 19mm converter lens for some close focus wideangle shots.

I hope this post helps some of you.

Cheers
James Wiseman



[Edited on 3-1-2002 by jamesw]
Canon 1DsMkIII - Seacam Housing
Dual Ikelite Strobes
Photo site - www.reefpix.org

#8 Andi Voeltz

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Posted 01 March 2002 - 09:48 AM

Hy, I can agree with james. When we
started with our Coolpix 990 we were
only using a strong KOWALSKI torch
in "flood" configuration. The Coolpix 990
in general has no promblems focussing,
espescially on a night dive. All in all I think
that you get even more crisp pictures
with a modelling light. Two nice examples
we did for http://www.cfundivers.com follow:

image

[img]http://www.cfundivers.de/downloads/640/Fea...r_640.jpg[/img]

The only restriction you have to take into
account, is that you might ecounter
something "dancing" :) through the
night... If you dont own a strobe or forgot
it you will very disappointed when taking
a closer review on your laptop. Because
the camera is not able to capture the
movement. Undewater, in the LED you'll think that everything went fine, because
you can not identify the unsharp edges...
anyway I think the picture therefore looks a little
more dynamic... :)

image

[Edited on 1.3.2002 by andi]
find a housing for your digicam! oOo. http://www.digideep.com .oOo.
market overview of the essential equipment for digital uw photography

#9 chironex

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Posted 11 May 2002 - 05:35 AM

does anybody have an idea?

chironex

#10 kdietz

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Posted 16 May 2002 - 05:50 AM

Ok Matt, spill your guts!
Karl Dietz...Nikon D200...Ikelite iTTL housing...10.5mm...15mm FE...12-24mm...17-35mm...60mm micro...105mm micro...dual DS-200's
www.kdietz.com