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D300 exposure problem


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#1 The Octopus

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 02:04 AM

Noticing overexpsoure of photos with my d300 in a priority about 1 stop. sent \it to nikon the "fixed" it got it back same problem.
Anyone else with same problem or thoughts?
D300, Aquatica Housing, Dual Inon z240 strobes, Lenses: tokina 10-17, tokina 11-16, Nikon 12-24, nikon 17-55, nikon 60, nikon 105, nikon 70-200

#2 Alex_Mustard

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 02:07 AM

Is this UW or on land? Can you post an example?

Alex

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#3 The Octopus

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Posted 23 March 2009 - 02:16 AM

both
will have to convert raw files to size that will post later today.
UW, my sperm whale pictures, available light.
surface some bird shots (bright sun with rocks).
nikon found a problem claimed to have fixed it, not fixed. using firmware 1.10
D300, Aquatica Housing, Dual Inon z240 strobes, Lenses: tokina 10-17, tokina 11-16, Nikon 12-24, nikon 17-55, nikon 60, nikon 105, nikon 70-200

#4 The Octopus

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 01:18 AM

was using matrix metering 320 iso, a priority.

Attached Images

  • 200901096657.jpg

D300, Aquatica Housing, Dual Inon z240 strobes, Lenses: tokina 10-17, tokina 11-16, Nikon 12-24, nikon 17-55, nikon 60, nikon 105, nikon 70-200

#5 The Octopus

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 01:28 AM

another shot, matrix metering, A priority iso 320.
using the 10-17 tokina, behind the 9.25" aquatica dome. Unt touched RAW, just converted to JPEG

Attached Images

  • 200901096627.jpg
  • 200901096482.jpg

D300, Aquatica Housing, Dual Inon z240 strobes, Lenses: tokina 10-17, tokina 11-16, Nikon 12-24, nikon 17-55, nikon 60, nikon 105, nikon 70-200

#6 photovan

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 01:45 AM

Most cameras will need at least -1 stop exposure comp when shooting down into deep water. Are the rocks in the rocks 'n' birds pics dark toned?

Darren Jew  |  Australia  |  darrenjew.com  |  fotofrenzy.com.au

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#7 Alex_Mustard

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 02:52 AM

These look very underexposed to me.

Darren is spot on that cameras are programed to work on land - so when faced with a lot of blue your camera will try and expose it as if it were the sky. In other words a light blue.

To get a rich ocean blue you have to under expose. So people usually dial in under exposure of about 1 stop or more. All the available light, large animal photos you see are taken with at least this level of underexposure.

So I doubt there is a camera problem - subject matter like this just requires some exposure compensation.

To be certain - take a land photo in normal lighting of a normal subject - and see if the exposure is OK. And underwater image like this won't tell you if it is a camera problem.

Getting back to the whales, I'd guestimate an exposure of around F11 @ 1/90th on ISO 200 for this type of situation, so I am not surprised that the camera's selection of F8 @ 1/50th ISO 320 is over exposed. But this might just be a consequence of the camera's metering not liking the deep blue underwater world.

Alex

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#8 Segerdahl

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 04:23 AM

another shot, matrix metering, A priority iso 320.
using the 10-17 tokina, behind the 9.25" aquatica dome. Unt touched RAW, just converted to JPEG


I use the same setup but I _always_ expose manually (I do use TTL though) UW.
On land I often use automatic metering though. I find the D300 to be very good at exposing. Sometimes it's better to use Spot than Matrix though. For instance if you take a picture of a person and the face of the person should have the highest priority.

But, back to UW shooting. First of all, when shooting close to the surface on a sunny day, never raise the ISO. Leave it at 200. Then go for a fast shutter speed (if you are using strobes, 1/250 is the fastest you can pick) to get nice sun rays. Finally, if you are shooting with strobes, then go for a very small shutter speed, as you will get over exposure otherwise. Well as long as the sun is in the picture, you will always get over exposure in the sun, the trick is to get as little as possible. Checking the histogram is of course very nice, but if you find it hard or don't have time for it, then at least use the Highlights display mode (where over exposure parts "flickers").
If you are able to take numerous shots, start with an f-stop at e.g. 11. If you don't get any "highlights" flickering, open up the aperture. If there is tons of flickering in other parts than the sun ball, go for a smaller aperture. etc. I'm sure you fully understand this, but perhaps someone else is reading as well. ;-)

Hope this is of some help for someone reading this!


/Peter Segerdahl
Nikon D7000, Ikelite housing and strobes, SOLA 1200 video lights.

#9 The Octopus

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 04:30 PM

The surface shots are also about 1 stop overexposed., shooting light rocks against water. I am able to correct it by dialing in exposure compensation and decreasing exposure by 1/2-1 stop.
weird. should be dead on.
Camera shop says to send it back to nikon again, they feel something is wrong with it,
D300, Aquatica Housing, Dual Inon z240 strobes, Lenses: tokina 10-17, tokina 11-16, Nikon 12-24, nikon 17-55, nikon 60, nikon 105, nikon 70-200

#10 sgietler

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 05:08 PM

Octopus, are you seeing this on land with all of your lenses, or just the 10-17mm? I've noticed my d300 + 10-17mm tends to overexpose when in aperture priority mode, above water and below, but I never worried about it too much since I usually shoot in manual.

Actually, hang on, let me do a test now.

#11 sgietler

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 05:19 PM

yep,

I just did the same exact shot in my apartment with the 10-17mm at 10mm and the nikon 10.5, in aperture priority mode, matrix metering. The tokina was 1 1/3 stops overexposed. All my other lenses are always spot on.

I always assumed this was just a "feature" of the tokina 10-17mm.

Edited by sgietler, 24 March 2009 - 05:39 PM.


#12 Alex_Mustard

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 11:57 PM

A while ago I reported on exposure problems with my Tokina 10-17mm - while shooting on manual
http://wetpixel.com/...showtopic=25876

I think that problem was dirty contacts or a sticking aperture. I was never 100% sure.

Octopus - your UW exposures are not so far away from what we'd all expect from the Nikon. But if you are getting the same problems on land then I think you should get your camera looked at. But do take a range of photos on land, with several lenses, to be certain.

Alex

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Nikon D4 (Subal housing). Olympus EPL-5 (waiting for housing).


#13 The Octopus

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 01:06 AM

occurs on the surface with the 70-200, 17-55. When i took it to the camera store yesterday they felt there was something wrong, it can be corrected with an exposure compensation of 1/2-1 stop in the camera menu. Shots in the store were overexposed by 1 stop consistently in matrix available light, dead on in strobe or spot. I will have to send back to nikon, question is timing as I have 2 trips coming up.
thanks for the coments
D300, Aquatica Housing, Dual Inon z240 strobes, Lenses: tokina 10-17, tokina 11-16, Nikon 12-24, nikon 17-55, nikon 60, nikon 105, nikon 70-200