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My first UW Fashion Shoot....


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#21 james

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Posted 11 May 2009 - 10:17 AM

I'm interested to hear that too Jason. Sounds like you're using radio triggering.

For my part, I used an Ikelite DS200 topside w/ a 32" soft-box yesterday and it triggered reliably every time. The soft-box panel was about 6" from the water surface.

Cheers
James
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#22 Undertow

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Posted 11 May 2009 - 10:47 AM

Great job. Using a studio strobe rather than the speedlights will allow for more light and more control over the light hitting the model. I have to imagine that you lost a lot of light with that umbrella so far away from the water and model. As soon as that light hits the water it disperses and becomes soft and flat. That being said the images look great, you did a great job!

PS: There are ways to shoot both hardwired underwater strobes (for key or fill) and wirelessly sync your topside lighting without using optical triggered (which can be inconsistent and a pain in the ass at best). Will post a set up for that soon.


Thanks Jason, I would love to hear more about your setup.

I was actually surprised how reliably the optical triggering worked. granted, it was late afternoon so the whole setup was out of the sun. The one i had a problem with was the hairlight, i used a Inon z-240 with its slave sensor but it wouldn't fire out of the water. So i had to mount it with the slave sensor and a bit of the strobe head underwater to trigger it w the uw fill strobe. That did create a bit of a hotspot in a few photos, but the effect is kinda cool, i liked it.

was very pleased with my final result, a big improvement over my test shoot, with many thanks to Jeff and James for their really helpful advice. cheers,

chris
D200, Aquatica, 10.5, sig 15, 12-24, 17-55, 60, 105
3x SB-105

#23 JasonDPG

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Posted 11 May 2009 - 11:55 AM

@James - yes radio triggers. i use a cheaper version of pocket wizards from Paul C. Buff called (called cybersync's), tethered to the housing on a long strobe cord with the radio transmitter floating at the surface. Sometimes I use a similar setup to your description, except I use an old YS-350, often set up to trigger via optical as well. However, sometimes I like to use my Alien Bees (not the best monolights, but they do their job) outside the water (obviously). The issues I am trying to currently overcome is gridding or snooting to get directional light into the water. As soon as the light hits the water, it difuses in more directions than I'd like. But I do like the radio triggers. Previously I had to have one strobe pointed directly at the monolight to trigger it optically - that sucked :)

Optical triggers work...except when they don't :)

Chris - your images came out great. The clothing line also lends itself to being shot underwater, that's a big plus (colorful & flowing). You should indeed be pleased!
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#24 james

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Posted 11 May 2009 - 02:14 PM

Jason:

Thanks! That's really useful information - it would be great to have 100% reliable slaves. How do you keep the radio trigger from getting wet when it's bobbing around on the pool surface? Is it in a little pelican case or something?

Cheers
James
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#25 JasonDPG

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Posted 11 May 2009 - 02:44 PM

Jason:

Thanks! That's really useful information - it would be great to have 100% reliable slaves. How do you keep the radio trigger from getting wet when it's bobbing around on the pool surface? Is it in a little pelican case or something?

Cheers
James


Give that man a prize! Yup, modified Pelican cases
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#26 Cal

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 05:52 AM

Great thread!

I learnt a stack

Cheers

Cal
http://www.calmero.com.au/ - Creative Underwater Photography

#27 TimG

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Posted 25 May 2009 - 09:31 PM

Lovely shots!

Just to mention I did a photo shoot in an indoor pool a few weeks ago to photograph ballet underwater (the things you do eh?!).

It all went fairly well but I was just horrified to find when I downloaded the pics and saw them on my big screen that the images were covered in microbubbles which had accumulated on the port. I guess this is something to do with chlorine chemical reactions. I was just gutted. Only a few of 300+ pics were salvageable. Talk about hard lessons learned. It had taken me weeks to set up the models, the location, the costumes etc - and a re-shoot was not possible. The bubbles didn't show up at all on viewfinder or LCD screen and I never thought, I guess, to check on the port.

I also agree whole-heartedly about the need to ensure any topside lights are on top-class circuit breakers. The thought of a light dropping into the pool is just too awful: even worse than the ^&*$$%^& bubbles.....

Tim

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#28 myesque

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 08:03 AM

Thanks a ton for this post! I am dumb when it comes to this stuff and this helped out!

Can someone link me to the sink cord that goes from housing to the floating pocket wizard.

Cheers!

#29 JasonDPG

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 08:29 AM

Thanks a ton for this post! I am dumb when it comes to this stuff and this helped out!

Can someone link me to the sink cord that goes from housing to the floating pocket wizard.

Cheers!


You have a few options:

Ikelite 30 foot cord
Subtronic N5-N5 TTL Sync Cable (7')

or

You can have custom cords made
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| www.UnderwaterCompetition.com | www.NYUPS.org

#30 james

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 09:38 AM

The microbubbles come from the pool filtration system - you really have to watch out for those. I usually turn off all the pumps and filters an hour or so before a shoot.

Cheers
James
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#31 loftus

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 10:35 AM

Give that man a prize! Yup, modified Pelican cases

I've found it easier to dispense with the Pelican case and just use a long synch cord.
Pretty simple really:
Long synch cord, female Nikonos socket to PC plug convertor, plug into Pocket Wizard, Pocket Wizard taped to a light stand on side of pool.
Ryan from Reef Photo can customize a long synch cord and Nikonos to PC conversion for you.
With regard to bubbles, as James said, turn off filter system, and get into the habit of wiping dome port every time you submerge.

Edited by loftus, 01 June 2009 - 10:39 AM.

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#32 asmigel

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Posted 03 June 2009 - 04:46 PM

Chris,
Very cool photos, awesome job!
I haven't done any fashion photography underwater, but I do a lot of kids portraits in swimming pools.

Question for anyone who has used backdrops underwater:
any tips/tricks on preventing these from billowing around all over the place?
Currently I use a bed-sheet (I think it's the most economical, as anything in chlorine water fades fairly quickly), weighted down by dive weights.
I've thought about sewing a pocket that I could thread a heavy pole through, but I'm always in different pools that vary in depth. . .


(just a side note, this is my first post . . . wooh wooh . . . was encouraged to start getting on the forums by Steve, who I met at the Wetpixel booth at the Scuba Show in Long Beach this past weekend) ; )

#33 loftus

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Posted 03 June 2009 - 05:29 PM

Welcome Chris.
To weight the sheet; a pocket as you mention with a chain is what I use, though a pole as you suggest probably would work as well and may be even better at keeping the backdrop straight. I'd try both, see which works better for you.
Nikon D800, Nikon D7000, Nauticam, Inons, Subtronic Novas. Lens collection - 10-17, 15, 16, 16-35, 14-24, 24-70, 85, 18-200, 28-300, 70-200, 60 and 105, TC's. Macs with Aperture and Photoshop.

#34 james

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Posted 03 June 2009 - 05:47 PM

Hi Chris and welcome.

Most sheets have a hem that acts as a 'ready made' pocket. Just cut the end "caps" off of it and thread your weight (pole or chain) through.

So - where can we see your photos :-)

Cheers
James
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Photo site - www.reefpix.org

#35 asmigel

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Posted 03 June 2009 - 08:21 PM

Oh my gosh, the hem, of course! Brilliant!

So my name is Abi, not Chris, sorry. Was just commenting on the fabulous fashion photos Chris uploaded in the earlier posts.

Ok, here's a photo I shot today:
Posted Image

These two cuties are sisters and were so fun to photograph.

~Abi

#36 Steve Williams

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Posted 03 June 2009 - 09:45 PM

Hi Abi,
Welcome to Wetpixel! Really glad you could join us. Love the kids shot. I was just checking out your impressive web site. Killer stuff young lady.

Glad you broke the ice!
Steve

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#37 james

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Posted 04 June 2009 - 04:15 AM

Doh, sorry Abi!

Cool photo - that must be so much fun.

Cheers
James
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Photo site - www.reefpix.org

#38 asmigel

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Posted 04 June 2009 - 09:13 AM

Thanks Steve, glad to finally be on the forums!
James, thank you as well.

~abi

#39 Undertow

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Posted 04 June 2009 - 06:21 PM

Chris,
Very cool photos, awesome job!
I haven't done any fashion photography underwater, but I do a lot of kids portraits in swimming pools.

Question for anyone who has used backdrops underwater:
any tips/tricks on preventing these from billowing around all over the place?
Currently I use a bed-sheet (I think it's the most economical, as anything in chlorine water fades fairly quickly), weighted down by dive weights.
I've thought about sewing a pocket that I could thread a heavy pole through, but I'm always in different pools that vary in depth. . .


(just a side note, this is my first post . . . wooh wooh . . . was encouraged to start getting on the forums by Steve, who I met at the Wetpixel booth at the Scuba Show in Long Beach this past weekend) ; )


Hey Abi,

Thanks and welcome to wetpixel. As i'm sure you noticed in this thread, I couldn't have produced the results i did my 2nd time around without the help from fellow wetpixilians, like Jeff and James and others. This place is a great resource.

For my backdrop i used about 40lbs of dive weights to hold it down and it was still billowing out a bit. I think a pole or other sort of pockets for weights would certainly help. Cheers,

Chris
D200, Aquatica, 10.5, sig 15, 12-24, 17-55, 60, 105
3x SB-105

#40 Niki21

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Posted 14 July 2009 - 09:11 PM

FAB PIcs
Look like you hadan amazing time!!!




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