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Seacam Seaflash 150

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#1 jordi



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Posted 01 June 2009 - 07:05 AM

Hi all,

After reading the user manual of Seacam Seaflash 150 I am seriously thinking on buying a pair of them. I am a Canon user and they are the only real alternative to have rear curtain synchro, and in addition they have i-ttl, super wide angle coverage, many manual powers, fast recycle time and interchangable batteries in a waterproof compartment. Apparently, the only and very important "inconvenient" is the price (1 costs like 3 Inons).

I posted some questions about rear curtain compatibility with new 5DMkII and I got some gentle and useful answers
Now I am looking for general aspects. Any opinion and advice of people using them for some time is wellcome
thanks in advance


#2 BotSO


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Posted 01 June 2009 - 09:54 PM

I have two 250s & one 150 and I love them. I cannot comment on the rear curtain compatibility as I've not used the feature but I really like the light that the Seacam strobes produce. I'm going to purchase another 150 later on in the year. Recycle time is awesome and I do a ton of shooting at 1/2 or 1/4 power. And contrary to my experience with the Ikelite DS-125s the TTL really does work.

Here's a link of some shots I took with the TTL last year:



#3 divegypsy


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Posted 21 August 2009 - 04:02 AM

Dear BotSO,

If you wanted to really check the consistency of the strobe TTL performance at various apertures, what you should have done is changed BOTH the aperture AND the shutter speed to keep the ambient light component of the test shot consistent. For example, shoot the test shots at exposures such as 1/250 @ f4, 1/125 @ f5.6, 1/60 @ f8 and 1/30 @ f11. Then the only real variable on the exposure is what the strobe is doing.

Or, alternatively, shoot at night when there is no ambient light component to the exposure.


#4 james


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Posted 21 August 2009 - 06:36 AM

Or just shoot the TTL test in the dark...

Canon 1DsMkIII - Seacam Housing
Dual Ikelite Strobes
Photo site - www.reefpix.org

#5 divegypsy


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Posted 27 August 2009 - 07:32 PM


That was my point in saying shoot the test at night, when its dark and no ambient light. Actually, once the ambient light is at least 3 f-stops lower than the exposure you have set on the camera, it is contributing a maximum of 12.5% of light to the overall exposure, which is almost too little to affect the overall exposure.