This has been a great thread for me and i think i am slowly learning how to properly use my strobes:)
A few questions:
Is TTL (command mode) also standard for the D300?
So if i shoot macro and want to use STTL, i must set my strobes to sTTL (top left dial), Set the top right dial to "B" position and leave the bottom right push button in the up position, right?
In this setting should i have my camera flash set to rear mirror or not?
Also with these setting, will changing the strength with which the camera's flash fires affect the strength by which the Strobes fire?
Same question as above, but play with different manual settings for the flash output of the camera....will it affect the strength of the strobe or just safe battery power for the camera?
For wide angle, its better to go manual, right?
Then i switch the top let dial to manual.
The top right dial to the f-stop matching the one on the camera.
Push the bottom right button in/down.
To which should the camera flash be set - rear curtain sync or not?
What effect will changes to the manual settings of the camera's flash have with the wide angle setup as well as changes to the camera's flash strength?
Nikon cameras including D70, D80, D90, D200, D300/s, D700 all have commander mode for their pop-up flashes to use with iTTL compatible flashes such as SB-R200, SB-600, SB-800, SB-900. Under Custom Setting Menu-Bracketing/flash-Flash cntrl for built-in flash there are 4 options: TTL, Manual, Repeating flash and Commander mode.
However, when connected via optical fiber to Z240s, the Commander mode is NOT
the correct choice. You should set the camera pop-up flash to [TTL]. The camera still thinks it is using its own flash for exposing the picture, while the Z240 reads the pre-flash and flash and mimics them (while inside a metal housing the camera flash can't go through except via the optical bulkheads). That's why we have to utilize the TTL function of the camera to control the exposure which indirectly controls the duration of the Z240 strobes.
Settings on Z240 for STTL is: Power Knob at STTL or STTL-low (output is slightly less); EV Controller at B for normal strength, A for more light and C for less light; ACC button (lower right one) at UP position.
Setting exposure compensation in the camera (either flash compensation or main compensation) does change the in-camera TTL level hence can indirectly change the Z240 output as well. (Do remember that for my D90 + 2X Z240s I have to set the exposure compensation to -2.3 EV to match the D90 and Z240s)
A very different setting for manual strobe control (e.g. shooting WA). Set the camera (anyone from D70....to...D700 with the pop-up flash) flash to [Manual] to eliminate the pre-flash of the camera. In this case the ACC button of the Z240 should be in the DOWN position. Now we only need a momentary flash signal from the camera to trigger the Z240, hence the output level of the camera can be set to 1/128 or 1/100 (using less energe from the battery).
There are two position in the Power Knob for manual operation of the Z240: M-0.5>-6 means controlling the output of the strobe light between -0.5 EV step to -6 EV steps (refer to the white letters in the EV Control dail, nothing to do with the f-numbers); or FULL meaning each time the strobe will be firing full power. In manual operation you have to judge the exposure by looking at the picture from the LCD, and more accurately from the histogram.
Above settings remain same with normal or rear curtain sync.
Hope everything is clear now.
Edited by Edward Lai, 07 October 2009 - 10:01 PM.