Jump to content


Photo

blue water in wide angle


  • Please log in to reply
12 replies to this topic

#1 bighead

bighead

    Lionfish

  • Member
  • 51 posts

Posted 09 August 2010 - 09:25 PM

I like the blues seen on some wide angle photographs. Other than metering, what are the other options avaliable to get that perfect blue ?? I hv read somewhere to placed filters on the strobes, color of filters depending on models.

#2 pxguru

pxguru

    Wolf Eel

  • Member
  • 116 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Kuala Lumpur
  • Interests:Photography, Diving, Classic Electronic Music

Posted 09 August 2010 - 10:33 PM

I wouldn't say that filters on strobes will do anything to the water! Strobes will illuminate a subject and filters can correct/adjust colour temperatures from different models of strobes to ensure that the subject's illumination is what you want.

As for "blue" water, thats a simple matter of adjusting apeture and shutter speed to reduce the amount of ambient light flitering down through the water until you get the effect you desire. Take a few test shots when you first go down, establish the blue background that pleases you and then stick to that basic setting - try to shoot upwards too.

Good luck.
Nikon D300, Nexus Housing, 2x DS-125 Strobes
Nikon lenses: 105mm VR, 60mm, 50mm, 10.5mm Tokina lenses 10-17mm and 12-24mm

#3 Balrog

Balrog

    Eagle Ray

  • Member
  • 329 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Poole UK

Posted 10 August 2010 - 12:02 AM

The warmer strobes such as Ike will tend to give a richer blue and I have seen many fit light straw colour filters over the cooler strobes such as Inons.

As pxguru says the blue is down to exposure control. Select the aperture that will best suit your combination of strobe range, dof, lens sweet spot etc then use shutter speed to control the ambient light exposure of the blue.
If you have significant surface light or a sunball, stop down and up the strobe power or you will likely exceed your shutter sync speed.

Edited by Balrog, 10 August 2010 - 12:03 AM.


#4 Alex_Mustard

Alex_Mustard

    The Doctor

  • Super Mod
  • 8294 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:La Maddalena

Posted 10 August 2010 - 12:49 AM

An older article, in need of updating, but still useful info:
http://www.amustard....=...news&size=s

Alex

Alexander Mustard - www.amustard.com - www.magic-filters.com
Nikon D4 (Subal housing). Olympus EPL-5 (waiting for housing).


#5 bighead

bighead

    Lionfish

  • Member
  • 51 posts

Posted 10 August 2010 - 05:09 PM

Thxs everyone for their input ...

Alex, thxs for the article ... it has more information that what I had read elsewhere ... I am using a pair of z240s, which means I need to warm the strobes abit to render bluer blues. What kind of gels are avaliable in photographic stores ??

#6 Alex_Mustard

Alex_Mustard

    The Doctor

  • Super Mod
  • 8294 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:La Maddalena

Posted 11 August 2010 - 12:58 AM

Alex, thxs for the article ... it has more information that what I had read elsewhere ... I am using a pair of z240s, which means I need to warm the strobes abit to render bluer blues. What kind of gels are avaliable in photographic stores ??


Very little in photo stores. You need to get the lighting gels from Film/TV/Theatre lighting companies. They are very cheap - just requires a bit of googling in your area to find them.

But as the other guys have said filters are just part of the solution. You still need to find the right conditions, read the light correctly and get your exposure spot on.

Probably the biggest failing I see in underwater photography on digital is backgrounds washed out of colour. It happens because people don't get their exposures right. A common cause is that they do not get enough strobe on the subject and then (in post processing) have to lighten the image (to see detail) and white balance the shot (to get the colours on the subject). Both of these factors cause the background water colour to wash out. And like I said, it is widespread and probably the biggest failing in many UW images these days.

Alex

Alexander Mustard - www.amustard.com - www.magic-filters.com
Nikon D4 (Subal housing). Olympus EPL-5 (waiting for housing).


#7 bighead

bighead

    Lionfish

  • Member
  • 51 posts

Posted 16 August 2010 - 07:36 AM

Thxs Alex, I will find it out at the lighting stores.

#8 Aussiebyron

Aussiebyron

    Tiger Shark

  • Member
  • 523 posts

Posted 26 August 2010 - 07:22 PM

I believe the Inon's have a colour temp of 5500k and the Ikelites have a temp of 4800k. Have you tried shooting in RAW and then adjusting the temp in Photoshop? I shoot with Ikelites and happy with the warmer colour is produces verses the cooler more blue light the Inon's put out.

Regards Mark
Nikon D7000 with Aquatica housing called "Deedee", Tokina 10-17,Nikkor 60mm, Nikkor 105mm, Sigma 17-70, Ikelite DS161

http://www.flickr.co...s/22898788@N04/

#9 Undertow

Undertow

    Manta Ray

  • Member
  • 438 posts
  • Location:Bermuda

Posted 03 September 2010 - 07:50 AM

I believe the Inon's have a colour temp of 5500k and the Ikelites have a temp of 4800k. Have you tried shooting in RAW and then adjusting the temp in Photoshop? I shoot with Ikelites and happy with the warmer colour is produces verses the cooler more blue light the Inon's put out.

Regards Mark


if you adjust the temp in photoshop it will also cool down the colour from the strobes, making the subject too blue. i've used 1/2 CTO gels on my inon's which bring the colour temp into the ikelite strobe's range. cheers,

chris
D200, Aquatica, 10.5, sig 15, 12-24, 17-55, 60, 105
3x SB-105

#10 jlyle

jlyle

    Eagle Ray

  • Member
  • 384 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Hermosa Beach, CA

Posted 03 September 2010 - 11:24 AM

Underexpose your images! If you shoot in aperture or shutter priority, set the camera's exposure to -2.0EV. If you are shooting manually, adjust aperture/speed to get -2.0EV. Your strobes light the foreground. Background water color isn't affected by the strobes.

Posted Image
Olmpus OM-D EM-5 in a Nauticam housing with dual Sea and Sea YS D1 strobes
8mm, 12-50mm, 45mm lenses
My web page.

#11 aussie

aussie

    Tiger Shark

  • Moderator
  • 544 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:GBR (Cairns), Australia
  • Interests:Diving - most weekends, music, photography

Posted 03 September 2010 - 03:51 PM

Underexpose your images! If you shoot in aperture or shutter priority, set the camera's exposure to -2.0EV. If you are shooting manually, adjust aperture/speed to get -2.0EV. Your strobes light the foreground. Background water color isn't affected by the strobes.


The White balance you use is affected by the strobe colour, as you need to adjust it correctly for what your strobes lightup in the foreground. Therefore it will effect the colour of your blue background.

Mark, changing White balance in post will affect the whole image, foreground and background, so not ideal.

Ryan.
Pedlow Photographics
My Flickr
On Twitter

Canon EOS 7D. Aquatica A7D. Inon Z240's. Canon, Tokina and Sigma glass.

#12 jlyle

jlyle

    Eagle Ray

  • Member
  • 384 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Hermosa Beach, CA

Posted 03 September 2010 - 05:07 PM

Mark, changing White balance in post will affect the whole image, foreground and background, so not ideal.
Ryan.


Another reason to try not to have to post process! "Cloudy" works just fine on my camera for WB.
Olmpus OM-D EM-5 in a Nauticam housing with dual Sea and Sea YS D1 strobes
8mm, 12-50mm, 45mm lenses
My web page.

#13 Aussiebyron

Aussiebyron

    Tiger Shark

  • Member
  • 523 posts

Posted 03 September 2010 - 06:22 PM

Another reason why I shoot with Ikelite strobes

Regards Mark
Nikon D7000 with Aquatica housing called "Deedee", Tokina 10-17,Nikkor 60mm, Nikkor 105mm, Sigma 17-70, Ikelite DS161

http://www.flickr.co...s/22898788@N04/